Category: Daily updates

Total miles: 15.4
Elevation gain: 3,165ft
Time walking: 10:45am – 7pm
Miles to date: 740.4

Today was a great day! A stunning waterfall all to myself, a big big climb, highest point of the route so far, fellow walkers, a gorgeous dale and camping in the most beautiful spot behind Great Britain’s highest pub. Today was also the third or fourth hardest in terms of elevation gain which I wasn’t expecting!

I woke fairly early after an earlyish night last night and whilst I lay listening to the stream I made plans to have a shower, partially pack up my things, go and have breakfast up by the waterfall then pack up my tent and head off. As I was about to spring into action it started to rain quite heavily (again! As I walked back from the pub last night it rained heavily for ages!) so I had a bit of a re-plan – pack my stuff up first and see if it would stop. Thankfully it did so I popped out for a quick shower (the first in a few days – bliss!) then grabbed my stove and some breakfast items and headed up the track to find the waterfall.

I heard it long before I saw it. The stream was busy but as I neared the waterfall, tucked away behind a bend, I could hear the thunderous pounding of water falling from a great height. I even felt the waterfall before I saw it, there was an intense, powerful energy I could feel as I got closer. Rounding the final corner it suddenly comes into view, this dense stream of water pouring straight off a rounded, hollowed-out cliff face high above, smashing onto the rocks in the pool below. It’s not the widest or biggest waterfall ever but it is the tallest single drop waterfall in the U.K. and it is breath-taking! It falls into a round pool at the bottom of a half-bowl-shaped canyon, where the rocks in the cliff face are layered in different colours – oranges and greys and whites – and the rocks at the base are grey and smoothed by countless years of water and many footsteps. The air is slightly misty from the waterfall but the most notable thing is the noise. There is the sound of the water hitting the rocks and tumbling down into the pool and then the echo of this ricocheting around the walls, almost thunderous! I couldn’t believe just how loud it was. It was almost too much for me to sit there and stay for breakfast but I found a flat rock near the stream and got some water boiling for a cup of tea whilst I munched on my granola. The water was mesmerising. After a while I tuned in to different aspects. The patterns the water made as it fell or as it hit the rocks and pool, the different sounds of the water and its echos, the hundreds of colours in the rocks and the little trees fighting for a foothold in the cracks in the cliff. I think moving water is just as entrancing as fire and it has a similar effect on me in terms of the way it makes me get lost in thought. But where there is almost something calming about flickering flames there was something wild and incredibly powerful about the falls. I was so glad I stayed here last night and got to enjoy the falls without anybody else around. I think if there had been other people here I would not have stayed as long and certainly wouldn’t have let myself relax and be fully present to the experience.

Eventually I dragged myself away from the entrancing water and after packing up the rest of my tent I hit the road and started the long climb up Great Shunner Fell, the main ascent of the day. I saw a couple of guys up ahead and judging by the size of their packs (not quite as large as mine but still sizeable) I guessed they were doing the Pennine Way too. They seemed to be making good time up the hill and I wondered whether I would catch them. It was a muggy morning and I wasn’t feeling particularly quick today!

The path climbed up between tall stone walls for a while which meant not much view but after not too long I reached the beginning of the moor where the views opened out across Wensleydale and the surrounding valleys. Some of the hilltops were being hugged by light cloud but somehow Great Shunner, the tallest around, was clear. I hoped it stayed that way! It wasn’t a particularly tough climb but it was looong! It was just under 5 miles to the summit in a long curve which meant I could see the top from early on, and it never seemed to get any closer! It was a pretty walk but exposed and boggy, and I was glad that the weather wasn’t horrible!

Part way up I spotted the guys taking a break so I finally caught up with them. They looked a bit tired! It turned out they were on the second day of a four-day stint on the Pennine Way and hadn’t done much walking before, and one of them was suffering with bad blisters. They were nice guys and I gave them a few tips that I hoped might help them. They joked that they couldn’t complain though when they realised what I was doing! They told me there was a pub in Thwaite, the little village at the other side of the fell, which served hot food until 3pm, which was exciting news! I’d stocked up on a few things in Hawes as I wasn’t expecting anything on the route for a few days, but a midway pub stop was tempting! I left the boys to finish tending to their feet and continued my plod up the hill. Finally, after about 2.5 hours, I reached the summit, crowned with a stone wall in the shape of a cross with stone benches sheltered from the wind. This was the highest point of my walk so far, at 712m, something to celebrate! Unfortunately the cloud had really come down and I couldn’t see very far. Apparently you could see Tan Hill when it’s clear, and I imagine you could see Cross Fell (the tallest point in England outside of the Lake District and my destination in a few days) too. Despite the limited view it was quite cool to see the cloud coming and going and at points it wisped across my hill too. I’d promised myself a proper break at the top so I made a little picnic of the scotch egg and chorizo that I’d picked up yesterday, rounded off with a few of the pic ‘n’ mix Cheryl had brought me. Quite the treat! The boys passed me this time, on a mission to make the pub in time for something hot.

The way down was nearly as long as the way up, and equally boggy. I was thankful for my gaiters as I could just squelch my way through most of it. I felt sorry for a couple I passed who were picking their way through trying not to get their feet too wet – it must have taken them forever to get down! I was relieved to finally get into Thwaite and found Dan and Gareth sitting outside the pub-come-tearoom-come-shop eating lunch and airing their feet. I’d made it just before 3 so decided to order a coffee and a bowl of chips (Dan let me taste-test his first – they were definitely worth it) and I decided to join them in airing my feet. Even with my waterproof socks my feet feel a bit soggy – my boots are starting to show little cracks so I think their waterproof days are over…

The boys were also aiming for Tan Hill tonight so we set off together, after a hilarious sketch-worthy moment when they tried to lift my bag and thought it was stuck to the table. Nope, just heavy! I tried not to wet myself laughing as they struggled to lift it and looked at me, stunned and somewhat abashed, repeating once again that they really couldn’t complain at how heavy their bags were or how tired they were. I don’t get tired of seeing people’s expressions when they lift my bag, it’s my wicked sense of humour coming through!

After Thwaite we had a steep climb up through pretty fields, each with their own stone barn, to heather-clad hillside. I was out of breath pretty quickly and glad that the climb didn’t go all the way to the top! The path levelled out about halfway up the hill and followed the contours around on a tiny, rocky and sometimes boggy path which seemed far too small for the hundreds of people that walk the PW each year. The hillside was one side of the Swaledale valley and the river Swale was far in the valley below. At one point we could see hikers on the opposite hillside and it was only their miniscule size that gave an indication of how big the valley was. It was a beautiful natural path and a stunning valley, probably the best bit of the day. At points we could see impressive waterfalls as streams tumbled down the little valleys that joined the main valley opposite. Eventually the path started to drop and we reached the turn off for Keld, where I’d originally planned to stop for the night (incidentally Keld is one of the stops on the coast to coast path so I’ll get to stay there one day!). Not wanting to add miles on we didn’t detour to Keld, instead pushing on and crossing the footbridge over the pretty river, spying a waterfall the other side which of course we went to investigate.

At first we missed the path and it was only when we realised the grass was long and unmarked that we realised we should have gone straight over and up, not along the field! Thankfully we hadn’t gone too far, and retraced our steps to follow a track up to a house further up the slope. It was a steep climb, rewarded by great views back down Swaledale, then back out onto the moor again for the last 3 miles to Tan Hill, the highest pub in Great Britain. The clouds started to gather behind us and we wondered if we’d make it before the rain came. The boys had a room at the pub, it was just me camping! Those three miles seemed to take a while – across the moors there’s not much by way of landmarks to gauge your distance – and the funny and now-familiar call of the grouse can only go so far to add interest along the way. Not that it was at all boring – the colours were fantastic and the view back to the hills changed every time we turned to look.

Eventually we crested the hill and we finally saw the inn about half a mile ahead and slightly below, in the middle of nowhere. It is an isolated place! We arrived tired and happy at the not too shabby time of 7pm and after a warm welcome from the barman (and the suggestion that the lads be chivalrous and let me have their room while they have the tent) I went to hunt for a good camping spot. I say hunt, as there wasn’t much flat even ground around! I found a spot between some rocks that was just about big enough for my tent and had a super view out over the endless moor. I pitched my tent in the windiest conditions yet (which actually dried it out quite nicely!) and for a while just sat looking at the view, listening to the wind and the occasional grouse. I felt very happy! This was the best camping spot ever! It was like the best of wild camping and campsite camping put together!

A quick wipe over with a wet wipe (feeling slightly envious of the boys’ hot showers) and a change of clothes and I was ready for some food. Lasagne and chips and a cider on the boys, followed by a pecan sponge slice, in front of the fire, and I’m feeling pretty good about life! We get chatting to the barman, who tells me about the Orkney Islands where he grew up, and a fellow camper who is a wisened old Kiwi guy, fit as anything and like a slightly thinner Gandalf. He is walking the PW having already walked the South West Coast Path and is proper old-skool with his gear but a fascinating guy to talk to. He is very excited about all the English things to try, mainly food-related. He had his first cream tea the day before and tonight was his first English beer!

After a while I’m just too tired to stay up any longer, having already stayed up chatting longer than I would usually. The wind is whipping around the tent but I feel pretty secure, I figure the tent isn’t going to fly off with me inside it!

Tomorrow we all have a long day so the plan is to start fairly early, with the pub’s full English to help us.

Goodnight!

Total miles: 16.1
Elevation gain: 1,730 ft
Time walking: 10am – 6:30pm
Miles to date: 725

A very satisfying day! It’s always a good sign when you wake up to a sunny morning and the opportunity to more or less dry out a dew-sodden tent! The pub where Nick stayed did breakfasts so we filled up well and headed out into a warm morning.

The way started with a slow but steady climb, following the bottom edge of the moor with pretty views over to Ingleborough (another of the Yorkshire three peaks) and back to Pen-y-Ghent. Just before Cave Hill we heard the sound of a waterfall over the wall. Peeking over we saw a gorgeous sight not marked on the map – a big stream dropped over a few gentle ledges then plummeted over a craggy ledge into a large hole in the ground! We nipped over a handy ladder-stile to have a closer look (trying not to get too close to the edge!), and could see a pool far below that the water was pouring into. It was a gorgeous spot! It would make for a beautiful picnic spot had it come later in the day.

The next pretty and unexpected treat was Ling Gill nature reserve – a deep, narrow limestone gorge rich in waterfalls and trees. The path follows the top and sadly you can’t really see into the gorge but you can hear the water tumbling down and the dense tree growth after miles of open moorland is quite surprising! The path crosses the pretty Ling Gill Beck and then starts the climb up onto Cam Fell. There wasn’t much particular of note but the views were wide and open and pretty spectacular! Over to the west there was a great view to the many-arched viaduct which carries the railway line. The path turned into a gravelled track which after a few miles was pretty tough on the feet. The climb was long but manageable. My pack had been feeling really heavy early in the day but Nick had kindly offered to carry one of my water bottles which helped a bit. Some days it just feels extra heavy!

Eventually the path reaches the top of a deep and wide valley and the view is fantastic. The steep hillside is broken up by tumbling streams carving their way down the slope and the classic grey Yorkshire dry stone walls. We stopped for our lunch on a conveniently positioned slab of rock, admiring the view and the silence. The path follows the contours of the ridge all along the upper edge of valley until the view suddenly opens up to the east as well as the west, and Hawes down in Wensleydale.

As usual the descent feels long and it was very boggy! My left knee is getting tired on downhills now which is slightly concerning, it seems to be holding up but I do feel it by the end of the day. That and my left shoulder, which has a bit of tendonitis I think, are my biggest concern so far but they seem to be ok again each morning. So hoping they’ll hold out…still a long way to go!

We reach Gayle, the little village that merges into Hawes which is the biggest town on the Way so far and it feels quite strange to be plunged back into civilisation after a day on the moors. I can imagine that if I hadn’t had my rest day in a busy-ish place it would be even more of a shock to the system! We arrived at just after 4pm, a very civilised time, so we decided to have a cup of tea before Nick headed home. We found a lovely cafe (lots to choose from!) which did lemon scones with lemon curd and cream. Yum!

Once I said farewell to Nick I popped to a lovely little old-fashioned grocery store to stock up on a few bits of food for the next couple of days which are quite remote. As it was early I decided to walk the easy and pleasant (other than the midges!) mile and a half up the path to Hardraw, passing through a field of sheep who followed me expectantly and seeing a hedgehog on the way.  At Hardraw there is a nice little campsite just a short distance below Hardraw Force, the tallest single-drop waterfall in England. The site is owned by a nice pub (The Green Dragon Inn) with an open fire, and its from here that I write this blog. It was starting to drizzle when I arrived so I put the tent up quickly and came straight down to the pub. I’ll check out the waterfall in the morning! Sadly the pub has run out of dessert which is rather disappointing, as judging by the delicious giant Yorkshire pudding filled with sausages, mash, veg and gravy they would have been delightful!

As I’ve cut a mile off tomorrow I’ve decided to do a bit extra and rather than staying at Keld I’m going to head to Tan Hill – where England’s highest inn can be found (and camping is available…just hoping for not-too-horrible weather!). Then I have a decision to make about whether to go for two long days with a rest day between or three shorter days. Think I’m going to go for the rest day option otherwise it’s two 10 day stints between rest days…

Anyway, time to leave this lovely fire and head into the chilly evening to my tent…! Thanks for reading – please keep your fingers crossed for decent weather over the next stretch, there’s some rather exposed walking (the highest points so far on the way) coming up.

Total miles: 15.2
Elevation gain: 2,800ft
Time walking: 9:45am – 6:30pm
Miles to date: 708.9

Today was a steady, enjoyable day. Three major climbs, a couple of icons and plenty of time to enjoy the walk. And possibly my favourite place name of the trip so far!

Another dry and sunny morning meant I could dry the tent out before packing it away, with a little help from the breeze and the handy fence I pitched next to. Whilst it was a shorter day I knew I had three climbs and no refreshments en route so I filled up on a good breakfast and a cup of tea whilst waiting for my tent to dry. Nothing like a good breakfast to get you started, even if it’s out of a boil-in-the-bag!

All fuelled and filled up with plenty of water (3 litres…3kg…) I headed the half mile to Malham Cove, a massive limestone cliff which thousands of years ago would have had a huge waterfall flowing over it. Even without the waterfall it was stunning – the path takes you along the stream to the bottom and when you look up you have to crane your neck right back, the people at the top looked tiny! The path then climbs lots (urrr!) of steps to one side to emerge out onto the higgledy piggledy limestone pavement on top of the cliff, where the views stretch for miles.

The limestone was well worn and slippery in places which made for somewhat precarious teetering from slab to slab, balance always more challenging with a big rucksack on your back! Route finding was also tricky as limestone doesn’t make for an obvious well worn path! Eventually I picked my way around and found the grassy path which headed ‘upstream’ from the Cove, along a shallow valley between limestone crags. Another short rocky climb at the top and the path soon emerges onto flatter more open ground, near Malham Tarn. Beyond Malham Tarn the hills rise up again – Malham Moor and Fountains Fell, my next climb.

As I track around the Tarn and up past the field studies centre (with a handy public toilet and a queue of tired-looking Duke of Edinburgh students) I find some delicious raspberries to ease the gentle climb. I take a good break sitting on a bench overlooking the tarn, just enjoying the view. At one point something falls out of the tree but I think nothing of it, assuming it was a pine cone or something. A few minutes later a young bird, I think a wood pigeon, wanders through the grass and into the area where I’m sitting. He looks a little stunned – I think he must have been what fell from the tree! He seems to be ok, just a little unsure about what to do, but after a while he manages to fly a little bit so I think he must be ok.

The next section of my walk takes me up onto Fountains Fell and I’m a little apprehensive as the trail description said it was “deceptively difficult”. It was long, but I never really found it that difficult, thankfully! Some bits were quite boggy but other sections had been gravelled. Perhaps the gravelled bits were previously more difficult. I have mixed feelings when I see slabbed or gravelled sections. They certainly make for easier walking but there’s an element of it feeing almost like cheating! The gravel, in particular, also seems quite out of place. A bit too man made in somewhere so rugged! The views going up were wonderful and wild though, it’s a lonely part of the moors and I imagine it can be incredibly bleak in bad weather. I thank my lucky stars again that I have been so lucky weather-wise! As I reach the top, at some very distinctive tall cairns, the views the other side suddenly appear and before me is Pen-Y-Ghent, one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. It’s a distinctive peak from most angles but it wasn’t quite so recognisable from where I stood. Still, Pen-Y-Ghent it was and it looked impressive! Steep sides dropped straight down to the valley below whilst the head of the hill jutted proudly out above lower ground stretching all around. I am going to be climbing that?! I recalled that the route description claimed this hill is “deceptively easy”….here’s hoping!

Before I reached the ascent of this rather attractive peak however I had to make the descent from Fountains Fell, mostly straightforward but a few ‘skiing’ moments where I very nearly ended up on my bum! Lots more squelching (my boots are definitely looking like they’ve walked 700 miles now!) and then there’s a bit of a break with 3/4 mile along the little road that runs down the valley. Pen-y-Ghent starts looking more recognisable as I get closer to the other end and there are some great little waterfalls cascading down its side.

A quick break and it’s time for the last ascent of the day. The first bit of the climb is very gentle, up and along a low ridge to the foot of the famous rocky outcrop that makes up the rest of the climb. It’s a steep climb! There’s some scrambling too, zigzagging along and up narrow ledges which would be fine without a pack but become somewhat more challenging when your centre of gravity is slightly out of kilter! It’s worth it though. The view from the top of the outcrop has a bit of a Lion King Pride Rock feel about it, and after a steadier climb further up along the ridge to the trig point you can see hills and fells in every direction. You realise just how remote and vast this county is!

My target for the night, the little village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale is visible down in the valley 3 miles away (it’s a slow descent down!) and I start looking forward to my dinner. The first bit of the descent is rather tedious – down big flagstone steps, too large for one step each but too small for two steps to be comfortable. I was glad to reach the more gentle slope of the gravel path which the rest of the route takes, winding its way down into the valley, Pen-y-Ghent getting taller and taller behind.

 

Nick, a colleague from SJP who has driven 4.5 hours to come up to join me for a day’s walking tomorrow, arrives in enough time to have a quick jaunt up the track to meet me and walk back into the village. I have a feeling Nick will win the award for longest travel time to walking ratio! It’s great to see him, and hear some of his stories from his original Pennine Way adventure. We find the campsite – right by the pub – and once again it wasn’t a problem to not have pre-booked.  Although it’s a bit soggy underfoot it is nice and dry weather-wise to put up the tent, at a fairly respectable time of about 6:30pm. Then, it’s off to the pub! A delicious steak and ale pie and chips with extra gravy and I’m good for bed! An early night tonight, whoop! Tomorrow is supposed to be a great walk with lots of open space and spectacular valleys, and the weather is supposed to be fine until the afternoon…fingers crossed!

Total miles: 18.5
Elevation gain: 2,481
Time walking: 10:15am – 7:15pm
Miles to date: 693.7

Today was long mileage wise but Mike (one half of my friends Mike and Anneliese who I stayed with the last two nights) joined me today and company always makes the miles go faster! It wasn’t so tough in terms of terrain or hills today either, and although my bag is heavier after yesterday’s restocking I felt well rested and managed the day fairly well.

The first third of the walk was hilly, with a climb up Cowling Hill and then another climb up over a stretch of moorland to Pinhaw Beacon. Halfway up to the beacon we pass a group of men fixing a drystone wall. One of them takes one look at Mike and I and jovially calls out to Mike (who has a small daysack) “you pick your women well – getting her to be your Sherpa!” We laughed about that for the rest of the day. Jen the Sherpa! He was a friendly chap and he told us, in a thick Yorkshire accent, “ah, you’ll be headed to Malham then. All downhill from here to Malham.” Excellent news! Confirmed (sort of) by the next man we saw – “ah it’s a nice flat walk to Malham.” I’m liking the sound of this!

Just before reaching the top we stopped to chat to a woman in her 70s out walking on her own. It turned out she was walking from John O’Groats to Land’s End! That makes two people now! She is definitely the oldest though – apparently she is 74! Some people amaze me. She is Australian and travelling the world, so this is only part of her adventure! I guess the Pennine Way is the most likely place for me to cross paths with other end-to-enders – it’s the most obvious route down the spine of England whereas there are lots of alternatives at different parts of the country. I wonder how many more I’ll meet!

The wind was fierce at the top and my arms were getting chilly in my t-shirt but I didn’t want to stop to get my jacket out – we had already stopped a few times for waterproofs on or off – so I stuck it out until we got a bit further down and the wind showed no signs of relenting. Mike had a good routine though – every time we stopped to add or remove jackets we got to eat a couple of jelly babies. I like this man!

The paths were boggy today after lots of rain the past couple of nights/days and we got very muddy. My nice clean waterproof trousers didn’t stay clean very long! The re-waterproofing does seem to have worked though which is good news. After squelching our way down off the moor we entered farmland, which we would be walking through for the rest of the day. As we came to cross a bridge over a ditch into a field of cows we came face to face with a massive bull standing on the path, right by the bridge, facing us. Ah, ok…. I walked towards him, within the safety of the narrow bridge. He stared back at me from his heavy face, nose ring glinting in the light. I take another couple of steps. He takes a couple backwards. A few more from me and he swings away slowly, turning to look at me as I venture a step off the bridge. He really is massive. I wouldn’t fancy that bowling down the hill towards me! Thankfully with a few more steps he gets the idea and moves further away, apparently more interested in grass and an easy life than chasing wary hikers.

After squelching our way through some deep cow-churned mud and (up!) a couple of small hills we reached Thornton-in-Craven, a pretty village but nothing there, so quickly headed on through more fields for a couple of miles to join a short section of the Leeds and Liverpool canal which took us into the tiny village of East Marston. As we came up off the canal a man called out to me/us – “ah, you’ll be a little mildew-y by now”…! Well, I’ve not heard that one before! Second favourite comment of the day! Just off the canal there was a quaint little tea shop/restaurant where stopped for a quick break. Ahhh that cup of tea and tea cake tasted so good, after 9 squelchy miles! We were making good time and the rest of the walk should be fairly flat…

Two miles (and a couple of small ‘undulations’) later we arrived into Gargrave, a pretty village with several options for lunch (and some public toilets, for future reference). We went to the White Cottage Tea Room, a fantastic choice! After a delicious triple decker ham, Wensleydale cheese and chutney sandwich with a generous garnish of salad, coleslaw and crisps we felt fuelled up for the last 6 easy miles to Malham.

Well, I’m not sure I’d call them ‘easy’..! As we climbed up the seemingly rather large hill out of Gargrave we kept chuckling at the “all downhill to Malham”…wondering when this downhill would appear… We did finally seem to reach the last major downhill and could just make out the limestone outcrops above Malham Cove in the ridge in front of us, with just a small hill obscuring the cove itself. Then we dropped down to the river Aire which we followed, squelching, into Airton where we met up with Anneliese and Daisy who had walked to meet us from Malham.

Apart from one climb up away from the river at Hanlith and then a drop back down, it was finally pretty flat, but with the soggy ground it wasn’t particularly speedy walking. It was pretty though, following the fast-flowing river, spotting herons and ducks and cute baby cows along the way. We eventually arrived in Malham about 7pm and Annie and Mike headed to the pub to find a table while I headed up the last half mile to the campsite to get my tent up before dinner. I was sorely tempted to stop at the pub, but thankfully they encouraged me to do my tent first, sensible people! The camping field was very soggy and windy but I found a flat-ish spot and pitched quickly before shedding my boots and heading back down to the pub, staaaarving!

At the pub I met up with the lovely Cheryl who had driven over an hour to meet me for dinner and to bring me some supplies and the four of us ate together. Lamb shank and potato rosti followed by fruit crumble and custard. Yum! Cheryl gave me a lift back to my campsite to save me the walk in the drizzle and I dove into my tent and shut out the weather as quickly as I could! Thankfully it’s not terribly chilly tonight, but the wind is strong and I’m hoping my tent stays firmly grounded! The river is quite loud here and I have a feeling it is going to make me want the loo all through the night…

Tomorrow; Malham Cove, Malham Tarn, Fountains Fell and Pen-Y-Ghent – should be a good (if tiring!) day 🙂

Total miles: 15.1
Elevation gain: 2,285ft
Time walking: 10am – 6pm
Miles to date: 675.2

Three moors, lots of heather, Bronte country and a bit too much sun!

Today was a beautiful day. After a very wet night, with thunderstorms, and more rain this morning which meant I ate breakfast and packed up in the tent, going without a cup of tea, the sun came out and I didn’t need my waterproofs! Everything was sodden underfoot and it made for squelchy walking, which was quite satisfying after several dry days.

My first stop of the day was at May’s store, or Aladdin’s Cave as it is known, just up the road from Jack’s Bridge and 200 yards from the path. Its owner won a prize for it being the most remote shop open so many hours and it was a real treat! Apart from the incredibly friendly ladies there (including May herself) it was amazing how wide a range of goods they stocked. Unfortunately they didn’t stock the dehydrated camping meals I hoped they might, but they did have a very tempting range of cakes and biscuits! They also made ‘sandwiches’ (which up here are very large baps) so I got myself a nice tuna mayo sandwich, along with some crisps and cake so I could have a semi-proper lunch.

Loaded up with new foodie goodies I headed out onto my first moor of the day – Heponstall Moor, which was covered in heather. Under the warm sun it smelled divine and all around I could just see more rolling purple moorland hills. The path was rough and muddy but easy to follow and it was a pleasant start to the walk. As I gained some height I could see back to Stoodley Pike, which looked smaller now but still very distinct up on its hill. I munched on some cookies as I walked, having only had some granola from the bag and a banana for breakfast, quickly demolishing four in a row. I love how I can just eat whatever I like, in terms of calories, even though I do worry about how much ‘junk’ I am eating. Having been so careful about my diet over the past few years it makes me a bit nervous to be eating so much bread and dairy, but I’m struggling to get enough calories in as it is and it would be so much harder if I was sticking to my usual diet.

Coming around and down off Heponstall Moor the path drops sharply down into a clough and then back up the other side. I could have taken the slightly easier option of following the bridleway along by the reservoir (to avoid the drop into the clough), but that just seemed like cheating! I’m sure there will be days to come where the easier option will be the no-brainer choice… The path then climbed gradually along a track before reaching the lower of the Walshaw Dean reservoirs, stunning blue under the sunny sky. Signs warned of the danger of swimming in the cold reservoir water and I could see how people could be tempted on a hot sunny day. Apparently the water is incredibly cold though, about 12 degrees, as the reservoirs are so deep, and suddenly the water looked less tempting! At the middle reservoir I decided it would be a nice spot to eat my enormous tuna roll (which I’d been thinking of all morning), and it was delicious. They certainly didn’t scrimp on the tuna or mayo! I decided to push the boat out and have my chocolate bar too, feeling a bit sick but well fed, ready to tackle the steady climb onto the next moor.

This section was flagstoned but there were bits where the moor had taken over – one bit disappeared right into a stream! There was a well trampled path on top of the reeds to one side so I followed this to find a safe place to cross. Crossing successfully, I made the mistake of not returning immediately to the flagstones, instead deciding to follow another reasonably well trampled path which presumably met up further on, cutting off the corner. I wonder how many other people have made that silly mistake…presumably quite a few, given the path, but it took me over a few small but deep little streams and boggy sections which resulted in ankle-deep sinking a couple of times. The most unnerving thing though, losing the flagstone path. I was no more than 5 metres away but it was impossible to see and it made me realise how easy it would be to leave the path. I decided to head straight for the direction I knew it must be, being a little more careful about where I put my feet this time. When I found it, I stuck to it!

It was a straightforward climb from there and as the path rounded the summit the next set of hills and valleys came into view – all heather covered and glorious in the sun. These hills are said to have been the inspiration for Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights and there is a little ruin called Top Withins, which the path passes, particularly associated with her. As I crossed this bit of the moor I became aware of how exposed the moors were – it was a hot and sunny day and there was no shade anywhere, save for an old sycamore tree under whose shade I paused while I made this reflection. I realised that I was getting through my water quickly and thought I’d have to refill when I got down to the valley.

I ignored the signs to the cafe when I got to another(!) reservoir at the bottom, thinking I’d find somewhere a bit further along. I didn’t find somewhere further along! Argh! I should have knocked on a farmhouse really. So as I climbed up the rather steep climb up into Ickornshaw Moor I started to be a little more sparing with my water which wasn’t really ideal on such a hot day. I knew Annie (my friend who was meeting me tonight) would bring me some water, so it wasn’t completely dire, but I did feel a little foolish!

Ickornshaw Moor was beautiful; wild and expansive, and windy, unlike the previous two. The path was very un-improved and it was glorious! Very muddy though and I ended up ankle-deep a couple of times. It meant I had to concentrate carefully where I was walking, so I had to stop from time to time just to look up and take it all in. I was tired, which made it harder to fully appreciate the beauty, and I tried not to wish it away so I could just finish and rest. The path doesn’t go up to the appealing white trig point on a handsome outcrop of rocks, instead circling at some distance, however as the path rounds the hill the view suddenly opens up in front, but for once not of more moorland; this view was of rolling hills of fields. In the far distance talker peaks could be seen, including (possibly) Pen-Y-Ghent, one of the Yorkshire 3 peaks, which will be the conclusion to Sunday’s walk.

As always with the last descent of the day, it was a long one! It wasn’t helped by a particularly boggy section near the bottom of the moor where water was held up by a big wall, making the ground a mass of streams and bogs and soft squelchy moss. Here I had my first boot-sucking-bog encounter, going in up to my calf and having to pull very hard to retrieve my foot, thankfully with boot still attached! That half mile stretch got me the muddiest I’ve been all trip! I still had a big smile on my face though, with mud all up my gaiters (thank goodness for gaiters!) and my trousers too, and I felt like I had now been properly initiated into the Pennines!

A short stint up and down through farmland which was much easier going than the moor, a pretty waterfall then a steep drop down the hill into the tiny bit pretty village of Ickornshaw, tired, hot and thirsty but happy, marked the end of my day, and the end of seven consecutive days walking. It also marked my halfway point! At least, I think so…not being exactly sure of what my total mileage is going to be! The gorgeous Anneliese was there waiting for me, ready to whisk me away to comfort for my rest day with a huge bottle of water. It’s wonderful how the smallest of things can make you so happy!

Tonight I am really tired. My legs, feet and body are definitely ready for a rest day. I just hope they are ready to start walking again on Saturday! I may be halfway but I still have some of the hardest walking ahead of me…

Total miles 17.6
Elevation gain: 2,167 ft
Time walking: 10am – 7pm
Miles to date: 660.1

Windy! Definitely the theme of the day. As soon as Jane dropped me off at Brun Clough Reservoir the wind was there and it stayed with me all day. It certainly blew the cobwebs away!

The route today stayed high for most of the day, following the edge of the moor along rough paths of sand and gritstone, the wind ever whistling in my right ear. I was feeling tired today (it was a pre-workout powder and fizz stick combo today in my water!) and I was glad that after an initial short climb the path stayed high and relatively flat for several miles, even if the terrain was rough and required picking through.

Just before midday I dropped down to the little parking area on the A672 just off the M62, thrilled to see the snack van there. I had two rolls that Jane had made me for lunch in my bag but I had a feeling today was going to be a hungry day so I stopped for a coffee and a bacon and egg roll! I was lucky, he was just packing up, but he made me my roll and ohhh it tasted so good! I ate it sat on a welcome flat rock (there aren’t many places to stop and sit up on the moors – it’s all heather and bog or too windy (with the risk of getting chilly) up on the gritstone edge) and had a bit of a rest. Jay, who is also walking the Pennine Way and appears to be following a similar route, passed through while I was stopped, and for a while I could see the little blue rucksack about half a mile ahead of me, heading up the hill. There’s something quite nice about knowing there’s someone else out there. I really enjoy walking on my own but there is a sense of camaraderie about knowing there are others out there on the same trail.

The path headed across the M62 – over a rather vertigo-inducing bridge – and up along Blackstone Edge. The views and sense of space were great, but I have to admit that after the sensational views the past few days, it probably didn’t wow me as much as it should have! At points I could see Manchester – now to the south west, having over the past week seen it to the north east, the north, the north west and the west – only now will I finally start leaving it behind me!

The wind was still a constant companion and it made it hard to control my temperature – I wore my insulated jacket at times but it would get too warm after a while (think I need to get myself a light shell) – cue me deciding to see whether I could take it off whilst walking without taking my backpack off. The first attempt ended up with me doing all sorts of contortions and very nearly getting stuck…but me being me, once deciding on a challenge I tend to stick at it (you know, crazy things like walking the full length of Great Britain…) and eventually I pulled my jacket off and triumphantly waved it in the wind, with nobody to witness my incredible achievement but a few bemused sheep. Still, with this new found skill I headed down the hill towards a rare pub, satisfied and ready for a celebratory coke.

The next section of the route follows gravel tracks around some reservoirs, not everybody’s cup of tea but it was a welcome respite from the rough terrain which makes for tiring walking (far more tiring than the mileage or elevation suggests). One section of the path was closed due to works on the reservoir and a diversion headed around the prettier northern edge. It was slightly longer and a rougher, more boggy, path but it was pretty, winding through the heather and under gritstone outcrops. Far nicer than trudging along a gravel track! Once the reservoirs were cleared, eventually the awaited Stoodley Pike came into view. I’d been previously warned that this massive monument looks nearer than it is, due to its size, and sure enough looking at the map it was a good 2-3 miles away. Still, it gave me something to aim for and it did gradually get closer.

By the time I arrived at Stoodley Pike I was ready for another rest and to eat my final roll. A muscle or ligament in my left knee/hamstring is feeling a bit strained, and I’m hoping it will last the day – another 5 miles and a big downhill and big uphill – and rest up overnight. I definitely don’t want any knee trouble over the Pennine Way!!! Just off the hill I have the option of detouring into Hebden Bridge where I was originally planning to stay, however a lack of camping options in the town and the desire to knock a few more miles and another hill off tomorrow’s route means I continue along the path. (For future reference I think the detour would be worth making, apparently Hebden Bridge is a lovely place and has lots of amenities!)

Thankfully as I drop down off the hill I finally lose the wind and there is some variety in the path as it passes through farmland and then pretty woodland down into the Calder Valley. In the narrow valley there is a bustle of activity – in the space of about 50m there is a river, a canal, a road and a railway line! Route finding up the other side of the valley is tricky – there are countless zigzagging paths. I thought I was on the main one until it practically went through someone’s back garden, but I managed to join up with the main path fairly easily so it seems that as long as you’re headed roughly up, you’ll come out at the right place. The guidebooks call this a “tortuous” climb. I think that’s a bit extreme, but it was tough at the end of the day and it was nice to know I didn’t have to do it in the morning. Once up on the top I could see Stoodley Pike standing proudly atop the hill on the other side of the valley. It really does stand out for miles!

A sneaky steep little valley and a narrow, deep path down the side of it marked the last bit of my day as I turned off just before the bottom to detour to the New Delights Inn at Jack’s Bridge where I’m camping for the night. The pub offers the camping at £5 for Pennine Way hikers! Thankfully I was planning on cooking my own dinner as it turned out there was no chef on at the pub tonight, but first things first – get the tent up and make a cup of tea! The midges were back again but nowhere near as bad as the other night, and I’ve beaten them to it tonight by covering up as much as I can and spraying any exposed bits with deet! The smell takes me back to Asia, where deet was a multiple-applications-a-day routine. I’m determined not to get bitten tonight, my bites from the other day have been itching like crazy!

My tea, biscuits, and pasta-and-sauce packet, followed by Jane’s fruit salad and a hot chocolate, taste amazing! Heavy rain is predicted for overnight, and it is starting to drizzle now, but cosy in my tent I’m not bothered…I just hope it dries out by morning!

Total miles: 11.8
Elevation gain: 2,193 ft
Time walking: 9:30am – 4pm
Miles to date: 642.5

Today was a shorter day though still pretty big on elevation, and after yesterday I was grateful for the slightly easier walk. I was also lucky with the weather again!

The day started off well, dry putting the tent down, an expedition rehydrated breakfast with tea, followed by a bacon and egg roll from the campsite shop-come-mini-cafe that Stuart bought for me. A double breakfast is always a win!

Stuart and I walked together today and it was nice to have a bit of company again. He has walked the Pennine Way before so could remember the route which was handy, not that route finding was particularly challenging today thanks to more flagstones in the tricky bits.

The first few miles of the day took us up a pretty heather-clad valley with a couple of stream crossings and a fairly strenuous climb up to Laddow Rocks. My thighs could really feel yesterday’s climbs and I was a bit nervous about how tired I felt. I kept reminding myself that yesterday was one of the hardest days and that it would get a bit easier for the next few days, otherwise I think I would have worried about how I would keep going! Thankfully the views along the valley and back the way we came were worth it. The sun sent cloud shadows scuttling over the hills opposite and the white and black of the stream bubbling below contrasted beautifully with with green and purple of the heather.

As we climbed higher we started to see the hills we had come over the day before – right back to the Kinder plateau! It looked a long way away! Eventually the path reached the top of the wide valley and headed across moorland steadily climbing up to Black Hill, the highest point of the day. Once again I was grateful for the flagstones, whilst they are a little tedious I bet that is nothing compared to wading through sticky bogs for miles…! Stuart has long legs and a lighter pack than me and he makes rapid progress, he has to keep stopping to let me catch up. He’s very patient with me, but I do worry about slowing him down. A black cloud comes our way and it starts to spit with rain so we quickly don waterproofs, knowing we are due a shower. Five minutes later (as I’d predicted – I told Stuart of my (lack of) luck with waterproofs and rain showers…) the sun was back out and the black cloud had dissipated. That was it for rain for the day!

As we came over the summit of Black Hill we gasped as the view suddenly stretched out in front of us. It was big. Biggest of the trip so far I think, the only potential rival being the Black Mountains day! Right from east to west the country just stretched out, with cities touching the sky on the horizon, and the onwards moors to the north. There is a massive but slender tower on top of a small hill visible from here (and for miles around) which apparently is a TV mast. Grandest TV tower I ever saw!

After a long steady descent from Black Hill, pausing for a brief lunch with a view, the path scrambles up the side of a small clough and pops over a road before dropping down again to Wessenden Resevoir, the water a bright blue against the green hills in today’s sun! The path follows a track which gradually descends to be almost level with the reservoir and it makes for pleasant, easy walking. We see a young man walking towards us, we guess from his suntanned face and big rucksack that he has been walking for a while so stop to chat. It turns out he is walking John O’Groats to Land’s End! I’m excited to meet a fellow end-to-ender and we swap stories for a bit. He has been camping pretty much the whole way, hats off to him!

A bit further along the path dropped steeply down to the stream that runs down the valley from the reservoir, then straight back up the other side. Jelly babies were required, and a rest at the top on a helpfully placed slab of concrete. The good news was that this marked nearly the end of the ascent for the day (for me at least!), and I was glad I only had a couple of miles still to go as my legs were feeling pretty heavy.

The final couple of miles took us back up into moorland past some smaller reservoirs where the wind was fierce, the water choppy and the sky moody. It was quite atmospheric up there! Dropping down slightly we could see a little boating lake and a pub, but sadly for us the pub wasn’t open in the afternoon. For me the car park next to the next little reservoir marked the end of my day (so happy to be finished so early for once!) but Stuart had a fair few miles still to go as he is pressing on more quickly than me. We said farewell, sorry that our paths wouldn’t cross again on this route, and he headed off up over the next bit of moorland.

Tonight I have had the treat of a lovely bath and a massive BBQ at Jane’s house. Jane is the cousin of a friend’s mum and she and her family are so lovely, I’m really thrilled that they offered to put me up for the night! And my room has beautiful views out to a heather-clad hill so I don’t feel too far away from it all. I’m really tired now and the bites from last night’s midges are starting to itch like crazy, argh! I’m so glad I’ll be missing the worst of the Scottish midge season! I’m not quite sure yet what tomorrow will bring – my notes and what I’ve read on the national trail website differ in terms of distance for the next section – but I’ve decided to add on a couple of miles to get another hill out of the way and to shorten the next day (a longer day) a little. Camping again tomorrow, yay!

Total miles: 18.3

Elevation gain: 2,611 ft

Time walking: 11am – 9pm

Miles to date: 630.7

Wow! Today’s mileage and elevation, whilst reasonably impressive, don’t give a real indication of how big today was! The last 6 weeks have been a mere warm up. This is SERIOUS walking!!! There’s no doubt about it, the first day of the Pennine Way is tough. They say that half of the people who don’t complete the Pennine Way give up on the first day (I’m not sure how they can actually measure that statistic, but it’s catchy, so I’ll let my inner actuary let that go… 😉 ), and boy I can see why! It’s long, it’s hard, the terrain is tough and it’s lonely walking. But it is also stunning! I’m glad I’m tackling the Pennine Way as fit as I am, as although I am now tired, I’m not exhausted. My thighs definitely got a good work out and my knees started to really tire on the final descent, my feet are sore from the pounding on the gritstone and flagstones, but now I’m in my tent and fed, I feel pretty good. Definitely going to feel it in the morning though! Thankfully tomorrow is a shorter day, though equally hilly I’m sure!

The weather forecast didn’t look promising first thing – indeed, I only needed to look out of the window to see the drizzle. It was supposed to clear by 11 and then return for the night at 5. Not exactly the weather I’d choose for my first day of the Pennine Way but probably weather I’d have to get used to! As it happened, I ended up not being ready to leave until well after 10, oops, but this did mean that by the time I actually set out it was dry! Dave and Wally were going to walk the first few miles with me, so I got a good chance to hear more about his JOGLE adventure (in pre-internet days, as if it isn’t already challenging enough logistically) and get the lowdown on what lay ahead for the next couple of weeks.

From Edale we took the alternative start to the route (it used to be the main route, with the current main route being the poor weather alternative, before increasing numbers of walkers made the route unsustainable) which climbs up Grinds Brook to the escarpment, which it then follows before meeting up with the main path at Kinder Low. It’s a route I never would have known to take if it wasn’t for Dave’s local knowledge, and oh my goodness what a pretty route! The path follows the brook up an ever steepening little valley, at times the brook joining the path (cue the first mud of the day), picking around boulders and rocks and ending up with some steep scrambles to get up to the escarpment. And the heather! It is so beautiful at the moment and smells gorgeous, almost like a gentle waft of honey. The sun was peeking out and the purple of the heather, green of the scrub, black and white of the water against the blue and white sky was too pretty for words. Above us were dramatic cliffs and behind us our little valley (“clough” up here) stretched down and rolled away to expansive views out to the southern part of the Peak District. It was a tough climb, especially with my backpack, but I felt strong and fit and I couldn’t stop smiling! I got to the top with muddy hands, a grazed knee, burning thighs and a massive sense of elation!

Once at the top the views out west were incredible and I could see Rushup Edge from where I’d descended into the Edale valley yesterday and beyond to the hills of Lyme Park. The path passed many weird and wonderful rock formations, one like a flying saucer, one like a pig’s head and many more just round and smooth and tall. I saw my first real peat and boggy ground of the day, although thankfully there was a route around the worst of the boggy bits!

When we reached the trig point at Kinder Low it was time to say goodbye to Dave and Wally and head out on my own. The path, although not always obvious, was fairly easy to follow as it hugs the edge of the escarpment for several miles. I crossed Kinder Downfall easily, the waterfall being rather unimpressive at the moment because we haven’t had much rain.

I passed a few day hikers along this section and chatted to a guy called Stuart who is doing the whole of the Pennine Way, but once I’d dropped down from the escarpment and then back up to the lower, rounded summit of New Mills I didn’t see a soul!

Day one used to be an incredibly boggy day and this was one of the worst stretches. A few years back, to try to slow the damage to the peat and heather, authorities laid massive flagstones in the bog to make a clear and firm path. The flagstone paths are controversial – some think they ruin the look of the moor and make the walk too easy – but looking at the bogs either side I was rather glad of them! I would have been knee deep for a good mile or so! They also protect the delicate peat and heather from severe erosion from countless trampling feet, which in turn helps the heather regenerate and makes for a much prettier and healthier moor.

The winding flagstone path from New Mills to Featherbed Moss and then the Snake Pass Road seemed to go on forever! With no real landmarks there was little by which to judge the distance. It was wide open, lonely walking and I can only imagine how demoralising that stretch would have been before the flagstones, squelching through the bog, and even these days, in poor weather. The sign at Snake Pass pointed back 2.5 miles. Wow, it wasn’t just an illusion – it really was quite a long way!

There were a few cars parked at the side of the road here, a couple of families on an afternoon stroll, but after I’d passed them, heading up the long, rocky, twisty path up to Bleaklow Head, I didn’t see another person for hours. The views back across to the Kinder escarpment were great and really gave me a sense of how far I’d come, but soon the views disappeared as I followed what looked like semi-dried out river beds winding amongst the deep peat, often criss crossing little streams as they ran along the path. At one point I surprised what I think must have been a large water vole and he dive bombed into the stream. He quickly realised he wasn’t particularly well hidden though (he had dived into a rather shallow section) so he scuttled on and found a deeper section of stream a bit further on! The path continued to twist about and it was quite disorienting. At times I would start to wonder if I had lost the path, and it was quite eerie with no other people around and very limited view because of the deep banks, but every now and then there would be a well-placed way marker etched onto a rock, or the reassuring sign of multiple bootprints in the mud. I was getting low on water so I was glad to reach running streams (on the moor it is mainly standing water which really is not very appealing, even with a water filter!) but when I got my water filter out it wasn’t working. Completely blocked! Nooo! Not only disappointing given I’ve only used it once, but also incredibly bad timing given that I still had about 5 miles to go with virtually no water. Eek!

Eventually the path opened out onto Bleaklow Head which is a very rounded hill top and not the highest in the area, but as bleak as the name suggests. I was incredibly glad of some way markers here as the path was indistinct and I didn’t particularly feel like having to navigate my way off the hill through heather and bogs on compass alone! The maps are a bit deceptive because once you get to Bleaklow it feels like it should be a short drop down and you’re done, but it’s actually quite a gradual descent at first, working your way along a stream that gradually cuts deeper and deeper down the hillside. The path was indistinct here and I lost it at first so ended up trampling through heather and soft peat, but thankfully I knew I had to follow parallel to the stream dropping ever deeper into the clough below. As the stream dropped right down far beneath me I re-found the path again (phew), following it around the ‘headland’ of the hill, it seeming to stretch on forever! Other than a couple of sheep and the occasional grouse startling from the heather with its amusing clacking and whirring call (it sounds like a cross between a duck quacking and someone saying ‘go back go back go back’!) it was lonely and silent up there, albeit incredibly beautiful with the heather and tumbling streams!

Eventually a corner of the reservoir comes into view, and gradually more and more of it opens up in front and finally the end is in sight. It was a steep descent down to the water and my knees were really starting to feel it. I was very much looking forward to a drink and some dinner! Thankfully Dave had warned me that it is still quite a trek from reaching the reservoir to the campsite, not helped by me missing the path that would take me over the dam and probably adding half a mile to my journey, so I just got my head down and plodded along as quickly as I could. I paused briefly to admire the silvery shimmer of the water in the fading evening light, with the high hills rising steeply behind it. You certainly get a feel for how far you’ve come down, when you look back up!

Just before 9pm I finally trudged into the campsite, just as it was starting to drizzle (I can’t really complain – the rain was supposed to start at 5!) and saw Stuart who had been keeping an eye out to check I arrived safely. A friendly woman in a neighbouring caravan came and offered me a cup of tea and biscuits which I gladly accepted as I quickly worked to get the tent up before it started raining more heavily. The main issue though – the midges! Ugh they were horrible and everywhere, and what with them and the drizzle as soon as my dinner was cooked I retreated to my tent and ate inside with the door zipped up. A few still made it in and I now have little but irritating bites around my ankles and hands, little buggers! Still, I’m here, I’m safe, I’m warm and dry and I’ve had a stonking day! No phone signal, so I’m doing exactly what I need to do and heading to sleep!