Total miles: 17.4
Elevation gain: 1,305 ft
Time walking: 10:45am – 7:45pm
Miles to date: 986
Wet, wet, wet! Scottish people keep apologising for the Scottish weather and I suppose I can understand why but they really shouldn’t worry, I love the rain! Ok so I wouldn’t want it to rain ALL the time, but there is something incredibly liberating and exhilarating about walking in the rain, when you’re out in the middle of the hills.
Today was rainy from the start but we had a lovely send off from Jan and Allan and set off feeling refreshed from our rest day. I took us on a slight detour as I wanted to start from exactly where we were picked up the other day (no missing stretches on this end-to-end adventure!) but soon we were heading down through lovely Biggar and up onto a little road which would turn into a track which would turn into a footpath. I was keeping my fingers crossed today as there were no obvious off-road routes to follow so I was piecing together sections of road and sections of footpaths in the hope they’d all fit together nicely and there’d be no impassable hedges or walls or anything! The first section to Cormiston worked well and was even signposted as a footpath. It was a bit muddy in sections – cue picking our way along looking ridiculous straddling the wide muddy bit in the middle as there wasn’t enough dry land either side – but it was easy to follow and there was a helpful gate either end of the one field that wasn’t marked as having a footpath. The weather even dried out a bit and we chanced a few miles without our waterproofs!
The second section was a long walk along roads, first into Thankerton where we crossed the River Clyde for the first time (much smaller here than when we see it later in the day as it does a massive loop to the north), then out the other side and up towards the Tinto Tearooms on the main road, battling a strong, bitter headwind and with the rain starting to make a reappearance. Tinto Hill, the tearoom’s namesake and one of the highest peaks in the area at 711m, had its head in the clouds today, but it still looked impressive. The quarter mile detour up to the tearoom felt like a long way but it was worth it when we got there, to step into the warmth and to get out of that incessant wind! We’d already decided this would be our lunch stop, even though at just under 7 miles it was a little earlier than usual in the walk. We probably spent a bit too long in there too, but the warmth, the soup (pea and ham for me), the toasted sandwich (bacon, Brie and cranberry, yuuum), the coffee and the cake made us feel rather sleepy and not really like going back outside into the weather! Eventually we goaded ourselves back into action only to see it absolutely pouring down outside, the wind blowing the rain almost horizontal. Maybe we would wait just a little bit longer…
Five minutes later the rain had eased slightly but not stopped completely and we decided we might as well make a move. So we splashed back down the road, narrowly missing being showered in muddy puddle by a passing lorry, turning off onto our next stretch of road, another 2 miles or so. Happily, only a short way along we found an old footpath signpost pointing across a field to Carmichael, with a very precise distance of 2.84 miles. The footpath wasn’t marked on the map but judging by the way it was headed it would cut a corner off so we decided to give it a go. A couple of twine-tied gates and electric fences later it crossed the main road and headed onto a nice mossy forest track, much better than tarmac, if a little more damp! The track passed by woods and farmland, including some super pink hay bales that at first glance I mistook for pink sheep…(of course, that well known variety of farm animal…?!). The rain had abated again so we stripped off our waterproof jackets so we could breath and have slightly less slippery packs (heavy packs + shiny waterproofs = even heavier-feeling packs) for a while.
All too soon it was time to rejoin the road again, this time for the long steady climb up the narrow Crossridge Hill. Tinto Hill across the valley had lost its cloudy veil and was now standing proudly out above the surrounding lower ground. It looked like a satisfying but straightforward climb, a bit Pen-y-Fan like in the apparent simplicity and clear path running up the side. One to do one day! Looking back the way we had come, to the hills in the distance, it looked like the weather was improving. Looking down the other side of the hill, the way we were headed…well…slightly different story. You know when you can see layer upon layer of thick black cloud hanging low in the sky, sheets of rain pouring down from them, the type that looks like there may well be thunder and lightning waiting to erupt too…? Yes, that! Headed our way! Well, it WAS forecasted I suppose! With the advanced warning we stopped to waterproof up, inviting the weather to bring it on and do its worst. It took another 10 minutes or so, by which time we were off the hill and through the little village of Carmichael, but when it came, it really came! The rain lashed down, so heavy it was bouncing off the road and we could do little but march on, face down, the occasional exhilarated (and possibly rather delirious) whoop at the excitement of being out in the weather! (Yes, we are both mad!)
A man drove past in his jeep and stopped to say hello and check we knew where we were going. He offered us a lift! So many people in Scotland have offered us lifts, I feel almost bad to have to say no! Another kind man at a lovely looking b&b (Station House) filled our water bottles for us and confirmed directions to the Falls of Clyde (whoop, another of my crossed fingers at footpath existence worked out!). In the rain it was sorely tempting to take one of the vacant rooms they had there, but we had a waterfall waiting for us!
It was another mile or so to get to the bridge across the River Clyde at Bonnington Weir, a mile full of rain showers, golden sun and rainbows! I don’t think I have ever seen so many rainbows in one day before! When we reached the river (satisfied whoop from me), it was big, dark and lazy and the sun had come out. It shone through the trees of a small conifer wood and onto the sodden grass of the fields. A beautiful evening!
We could hear a roar in the background and guessed it must be the weir, but as we drew closer we started to sense the power of something much bigger… The weir was indeed impressive, one section of the man made barrier was open and the water poured through it, suddenly loud and powerful, but just beyond was the first of the many waterfalls we were about to see as we walked through the Falls of Clyde Nature Reserve. We couldn’t even see these properly but we could see the water just disappearing over the edge and hear the roar of it pounding rocks on its way below. As the path wound its way through the woods we’d get occasional glimpses of the river through the trees and at purpose built viewing platforms but even when we couldn’t see it we could always hear it. It’s incredible how water that is so calm and peaceful one moment can so quickly become a torrential force, crashing its way down the rocky gorge, churning shining dark water into frenzied white froth. It was stunning. The falls just got more powerful and magnificent the further we walked, with the falls at Corra Linn being the most spectacular of all. Even though we were fairly high above the water we could feel the power and the sound was constant and thrilling. We later learned that on the other side of the river the path goes much closer to the falls themselves and the power is almost overwhelming – another one to add to the list! It was mesmerising even from up high and I had to drag myself away. I’m sorry High Force, you have nothing on the Falls of Clyde!
It was starting to get late and we still needed to find somewhere to camp for the night. We knew if all else failed there was the possibility of camping on the grass by the visitor centre car park on top of the hill (research told us other people had done it before) but we hoped to find something a little nicer. A few waterlogged patches later and the light was starting to fade, then we spotted it. A perfect, level, not too waterlogged grassy area, among the trees but near the track, just above the village but not overlooked by any buildings. Bingo! As we gratefully plonked our bags down and pulled our tents out the dry window ended and the rain began to fall. Waterproofs on and tents going up in the rain. I was so grateful we’d been able to dry them at Jan and Allan’s – putting wet tents up in the rain is really not fun – and I’d reattached my inner to my outer which meant mine went up super quickly and I could help Anneliese with hers (not so quick or easy to put up in the rain as it pitches inner first…). With tents up and all essentials inside and relatively dry I stayed out to cook our dinner. I used my last match to boil the water for the first meal, then retrieved the spare box of matches from Anneliese to start the second one going. Bit of an issue though….damp matches! After several attempts, in the dark with the rain coming down, it was clear the matches weren’t going to work despite our best efforts. I chided myself for not replacing the lighter when it stopped working. And then I remembered…I had my fire steel… I hadn’t yet used it on this trip, and prayed, please please please let this work! After a few practice strikes I managed to get a couple of sparks but in the rain with slippery hands it was hard and I couldn’t get the gas to catch. Quick breather and another go, several sparks and then finally, a whoosh – oh happy sound – as one of the sparks ignited the gas. Oh I have never been so happy to see fire! Second meal gets made. The rain suddenly decides to stop as we begin to eat, out of the packets, standing up, in our soggy waterproofs, glad of the hot food. As the rain has stopped we decide to make a cup of tea and make the most of the dry spell. I manage to light the stove more quickly this time, ah-hah (proud face), only for the fuel to run out 30 seconds later and the rain to start coming down again. Clearly tea is not meant to be so we quickly retreat to our tents, strip the waterproofs off and huddle up inside eating our rehydrated dehydrated chicken curry dinner, which tastes remarkably good when you are tired, cold and hungry!
The rain is still coming down and I think we are in for a wet night but I am grateful to be in warm, dry clothes, tent and sleeping bag and I love hearing the rain on the tent and the roar of the waterfalls in the distance. I also have a hip flask of raspberry gin courtesy of Anneliese which is helping to keep the cold at bay, and at least the rain means we get an early night!