Total miles: 18.6
Elevation gain: 1,037 ft
Time walking: 9am – 6pm
Miles to date: 559.5
Today was a nice day. It wasn’t remarkable as far as days walking go, but there were some lovely bits, my body survived the third long day in a row, and I got to meet up with some old university friends for an early lunch en route.
I made an earlyish start from Chester, a little sad that I didn’t have more time to explore but given that the reason I’d moved my rest day (originally planned for today) was so that I could spend tomorrow afternoon and evening with one of my dearest friends, it was a sacrifice worth making!
I don’t go through many big towns and cities on this route but when I do there is always an art to finding the prettiest route in and out. For Chester, this was the canal. I dropped back to the spot where I’d left it last night and followed it for another mile or so before cutting up along some suburban streets to pick up the Longster Trail. Along the way a friendly postman came over to chat, it turns out he is a keen backpacker too and we had a nice conversation, with him wishing me well as I headed on. I always find people’s reactions interesting. Some people are utterly amazed at what I’m doing, some think I’m bonkers, others think it’s pretty cool and are a little envious. You can always tell fellow hikers though, there is a sense of respect, understanding, shared passion and support. We are a crazy bunch, us hikers!
I picked up the Longster Trail – which disappointingly has a very uninteresting waymarker – just an arrow with “longster trail” written on it (I think it’s a Cheshire thing, I followed three different trails and they all had the same style waymarker!) – and followed it across pretty farmland up to the village of Great Barrow. There is a gorgeous little cafe called the Bluebell Cafe on the Barrowmere Estate where I met up with Jo and Rich who I hadn’t seen since Durham! Kudos to them on logistics – they were returning to Durham from the Isle of Man via Rich’s parents in Liverpool and managed to work in meeting me en route! We had a lovely early lunch together (a huge tuna melt jacket potato, scrumptious lemon curd cake and a latte) and I could have curled up and snoozed afterwards! Alas I had another 13 miles to go so I had to get a wriggle on!
Soon after Great Barrow I left the Longster Trail to cut across farmland on other footpaths until I picked up the Baker Way. As I faced overgrown field edges I thought longingly back to the lovely clear Offa’s Dyke and Coast paths! The first field was the worst (pushing through waist high broad beans tangled with brambles, thistles and nettles….) and then thankfully it got a bit easier. The plus side was that there were soooo many big fat juicy blackberries today. I wished I could have collected some…not that I could have eaten any more…!
My route took me to the edge of Delamere Forest and once there I took a big deep lungful of the pine-filled air. Ahhhh. This was heaven! Soft walking along pine needle-coated paths, muffled footsteps and the sound of the breeze high up in the tree tops. I love walking through forests with pine trees, the smell takes me right back to when we used to go camping at my favourite campsite, where my friends and I would run around for hours through pine forests. I followed a slightly circuitous route as I wanted to head to some toilets marked on the map. Frustratingly they didn’t exist so I looped back to the next promising spot – Delamere train station, where I knew I could also stop for some ice cream (recommended by Rich). The path took me around Blakemere Moss, a lake in the middle of the forest, but you only got a few glimpses of it through the thick trees that lined the shore. Great for the wildlife, not so great for people wanting to see the wildlife! The route also went under the Go Ape course which looked really fun. It’s still something I’ve never done! One for the bucket list. Arriving at the station I saw the cafe but couldn’t see any ice cream. Ah well, I needed a break so I had a pot of tea and a lovely apple and cinnamon scone while I took my boots off and had a look at the rest of my route. I was pleasantly surprised to find I only had another 4 or 5 miles left! My feet and legs were starting to feel it though, so I was pretty glad.
When I re-booted, loaded up and headed off, I finally spotted the ice cream just around the corner from the cafe. Doh! Still…it only took me a couple of seconds to decide to have an ice cream too! It was delicious!
I followed the Delamere Way out of the forest and caught up with a woman out walking with two boys who were sword fighting with sticks. We chatted as we walked together for about half a mile, before I suddenly realised I had missed a turn while we’d been chatting! Feeling rather sheepish, I said farewell and made an about turn, picking up the right route once more. I had a long stretch along the mostly quiet road to Crowton before picking up a nice bridleway for the last mile or so to my stop for the next two nights, Ash House Farm B&B. Oh my goodness this place is beautiful! I am staying in one of the rooms in the converted fruit store and it is luxurious compared to my hostel and camping nights! I even have a bath!
After making the most of the bath I headed out for the 1 mile stroll to the nearest pub for dinner. It probably seems a bit daft to walk another mile after walking so far already, but it’s amazing how different it is walking without the bag and in different shoes. Not that flip flops can really be called shoes, and they aren’t exactly ideal walking attire, but they make a change for a gentle stroll! It was a stunning golden-sun evening and it was pleasant to stretch the legs and meander leisurely. The food at the pub was basic but delicious and everyone was so friendly. A local couple donated £10! By the time I was done it was mostly dark, but there was enough light in the sky to find my way back and it was incredibly peaceful (other than when the trains came whizzing though (it’s on the west coast mainline!)). The moon was just past full and was just rising, a beautiful and slightly eerie orangey yellow. It would have been a stunning night to camp. Still, I’m incredibly happy to be curled up in my nice comfy bed…!
Tomorrow is my rest day which is definitely needed after three days of 17 mile plus days in a row. In fact, in the last 7 consecutive days of walking, only two days have been shorter than 17 miles! I have a couple of long days coming up too, so I’m going to make the most of putting my feet up. Eunice (my housemate and one of dearest friends) is coming up tomorrow for the night and bringing me hugs and more supplies. Can’t wait!
