Total miles: 18.8
Elevation gain: 3,258 ft
Time walking: 9:30am – 7:30pm
Miles to date: 490.6
Today was a big day! Big hills, big views, big smiles! (And big aches in my feet…!). After a bit of a soggy start (amazing how one short drizzle shower can make a tent so damp!) I got packed up and headed into the village to stop off at the wonderful Llandegla Community Shop and Cafe. This place is a little gem! Well stocked little shop with friendly staff and a cafe serving coffee, cakes etc and light breakfasts (bacon and egg bap, yuuum!). Always a good start to a day!
The first few miles were over farmland, heading towards the ridge that is the Clwydian Range – a narrow band of hills that stretches for 20 miles north to south from Prestatyn. I saw my first big black cloud of the day, thankfully it seemed to be passing me by to the north, so I stayed dry for now.
Once I reached the hills it was a steep climb up, but interestingly the path skirts most of the actual hilltops rather than go up over them. I wasn’t complaining! The views from the side of them were pretty spectacular anyway, out across the wide vale to the west, right across to Snowdonia (when the clouds permitted!).
Just as I neared the bottom of the first couple of hills I finally felt a few spots of rain and the waterproofs were straight on – this was definitely going to be more than a drizzle! I munched on the slice of barrabrith I had bought in the cafe while the rain pelted down, strangely content! Barrabrith finished, I headed on into the rain, dreaming of the waterproof gloves I’d ordered that would be with me next week.
The shower didn’t last too long and the wind, although chilly, dried me out fairly quickly. A mile and half later, as the path dropped to a main road between two big hills, I could see another cloud. This one was spectacularly angry looking, and it was headed right my way. I could see it already emptying part of its contents onto the valley below and as I already had my waterproofs on I just watched it coming closer. It was pretty amazing, seeing the weather sweep across the valley! Soon it hit – first the slow and steady pitter patter of big fat drops and then gradually getting heavier and heavier. And heavier! I paused under a bank of trees on the track that led towards the next hill, a big, exposed hill, grateful that I wasn’t already up there! The rain kept coming, and when I looked more closely I realised it was actually hail! A group of walkers joined me under the relative shelter of the trees and I felt sorry for them – they were in shorts, trainers and puffa jackets! As the track slowly turned into a little stream gushing down the hill, carrying twigs and even little pebbles, the thunder and lightning came. I thanked my lucky stars for a second time that I was not stuck on the hill!
Eventually the rain eased off and it looked like the thunder and lightning had abated so I headed on, and up the really steep sided Foel Fenli, a hill fort. The Kendal mint cake came out for this! It was very steep! And not the easiest path – slippery in places and little grip. Offa’s Dyke path skirts the hill just below the summit but I decided I’d climb right to the top. The views were stunning, although it was a bit unnecessary really given I’d be summiting a taller hill soon. Still, always love a good hill fort! The clouds coming across the valley looked like they might contain more lightning so I made a quick exit off the hill (as quickly as a steep slope permits!) and down to a car park with the most people I’d seen all day. Ah, of course, it’s Saturday! It still wasn’t hugely busy, I guess because not everybody is mad enough to venture out in a rainstorm…! The most exciting thing about this car park was a wooden caravan which turned out to be a little mobile cafe. Amazing! I dug around in my wallet for my last remaining change while chatting to the owner, and when I asked what I could get for the £2 I’d managed to find, the lovely lady said I could have whatever I wanted. I love her! I asked for a latte and she offered me a large one, bless her. I knew I’d probably regret it when walking across the exposed, toilet-less hillside, but I was so grateful I accepted her kindness.
I had been planning to rest my legs for a bit but as it started to drizzle again I kept going, up the gradually rising path the mile and a half towards Jubilee Tower on top of Moel Famau, the tallest hill around. I was amazed at how many people I saw who were wearing clothing completely inadequate for the weather! So many people didn’t have anything resembling a coat, which just seemed crazy given that it was a showery day (as forecasted). I wondered if they all thought I looked strange, plodding on up the hill in my full waterproofs…
I could tell that the view from the top would be amazing, as the views just walking up were incredible. The southern section of the Clwydian Range stretched out to the south, down in the vale below were little towns and villages and a patchwork of fields, and in the distance I could see Snowdon. Actually, I could see 3 very tall mountains, each a fair distance apart, and I didn’t know then exactly which one was Snowdon (the map at the top confirmed it was the furthest north of the three) but I figured it had to be one of them! Once I reached the top I could also see out to the other side, to Cheshire and my route after Offa’s, and north to Liverpool and the sea! I took a quick break to change my socks (boots very wet!) but it was chilly at the summit so I added my warm jacket to my layers, and didn’t stay too long. I could see the next few hills I had to tackle and it looked like I still had a long way to go, although I think it was ‘only’ about 6 miles.
A short while further on the coffee (and all the water I’d been drinking) really didn’t want to wait until Bodfari. Now I’ve had a wee in plenty of hedges on this trip, but an exposed hillside in a popular area on a Saturday is not the ideal place to need a wee! But I was desperate so I headed off over the edge of the hill to a spot not visible from the path and just prayed nobody wandered over for a better look at the view! It was definitely the best view I’ve had from a loo before, hehe.
Feeling lighter, I ate my oatcakes on the go and jogged down a couple of the hills to make them go quicker. There were some very steep bits, sadly followed by equally steep bits going up the other side. One of these was up the side of Moel Arthur, another hillfort, this one on top of an apparently perfect cone-shaped hill. Splendid spot for a hill fort – these Iron Age folk chose their spots well! The path once again skirted just below the top and this time I stick to the path, my legs were feeling the mileage and the hills now. I’m glad I did though, as rounding the side I met a couple out for a walk who had both (separately) walked Land’s End to John O’Groats! It was great to meet people that have actually done it! They wished me well and I was really pleased to have met them. The next people I met were a family panting their way up the steep hill I was coming down…I’m not sure what they made of my cheery ‘hello’ as I jogged rather haphazardly down the slope past them!
One final hillfort for the day, Penycloddiau, and this time the path goes right over the top. A sign informs me it’s one of the largest hill forts in Wales and it is certainly impressive. The views don’t get boring and with the golden evening sun (no more rain, yay!) the hill is just beautiful. The heather is in full bloom at the moment and its purple flowers, against the blue sky, green grass and golden sunlight, is breathtaking. Snowdon and neighbouring mountains are finally making a star appearance and I have a view out towards Llandudno and the wind farms off the north Wales coastline. If I wasn’t getting hungry and due to meet Aurelie and the girls in Bodfari I think I could have stayed there for hours!
I was definitely getting hungry though and jelly babies were no longer cutting it. I needed proper food! It was pretty much all downhill from here so I started running down every relatively safe slope. Aeroplane noises may have been involved…! (Well, if you can’t let your inner child come out to play when running down a big hill, when can you?!). I also started singing “she’ll be coming down the mountain” with numerous variations. “She’ll be running down the mountain when she comes” and “she’ll be craving mashed potato when she comes” being the most memorable. I’d had a very bizarre playlist, if I added all the random songs I’ve been singing this trip! I was clearly in need of good food and rest. Or I was just high on fresh air!
The last couple of miles were pretty but I was impatient to get to Bodfari and see the girls, and I was so glad when I finally made it to the pub (The Dinorben Arms – highly recommend it!) to find that Aurelie had managed to get us a table for dinner. Big hugs all round, oh it was so so good to see her and her two girls! They had come up to North Wales for the weekend especially to see me and bring me supplies, and I was staying with them for the night. The girls were fascinated by my adventure and had written down lots of questions which they proceeded to interview me with. I felt famous!
The food was AMAZING! I had lamb shoulder with dauphinoise potatoes and greens and oh my goodness I was in food heaven! Rounded off with a banoffee waffle, it was a perfect end to a glorious day, and made the achey feet worth it. I have a feeling I’ll be hobbling a little in the morning, but it is a shorter day again so I’m not too worried!
Only one more day left of Offa’s Dyke, and tomorrow I’ll hit 500 miles – I can officially start singing the Proclaimers’ song!