Day 25: Pandy to Hay-on-Wye

Total miles: 17

Elevation gain: 2,385 ft

Time walking: 9:30am – 5:30pm

Miles to date: 365.5

Wow, talk about being in my happy place today! I absolutely loved it. Rain and all!

The steep climb right from the off seemed a bit daunting after a big full English, cereal, tea, coffee and all, but as Pandy is sat right under the Black Mountains there really isn’t any choice but to shoulder your pack, take a big breath and prepare yourself for 3 miles of uphill walking!

Thankfully I felt strong and well-rested after my day off yesterday and my pack, which sometimes can feel like a dead weight on my shoulders, just felt like a big hug. I think you could say I attacked the climb with gusto and after reaching the hill fort (whoop! The largest in the area), I was very grateful to be waterproof-free! It didn’t take too much longer for the first rain to arrive so I duly donned my red, black and green combo and made a start on the remainder of the hill. Of course, it was merely a warning shower and the next hour was rain-free which usually would be unpleasant in the waterproofs but given the ever increasing wind it was actually nice to have the extra layers.

The path kept climbing and eventually I found my first trig point, an exciting moment as not only did it mean I could accurately pinpoint my position on the map (on an otherwise fairly featureless ridge) but it also meant the worst of the climb was behind me! The views were already spectacular. I could see back where I had come from the previous day to one side and the rest of the Black Mountains to the other side. Ahead, the stunning ridgeway that I’d be following for the next 9 miles, broad and grassy, falling away on one side to the patchwork countryside of Herefordshire and down into the steep-sided valley where Llanthony and its priory offer respite to walkers who want to break the long day. It would be nice to see the priory but it felt to me like my day had barely started and besides, I didn’t think it seemed like the easy option to walk down the steep valley then have to come right back up the next morning!

By this time the first rain had come and it was squally and blustery. I was glad of my heavy duty waterproofs! As the path climbed higher the views were ever-changing, mainly due to the changeable weather. Clouds were rolling in from the mountains side and where the plains to my right were in sunshine, the high hills to my left were dark and misty. It kept changing – sometimes it would clear over the hills and sometimes there would be rain down below. I could see the weather heading towards me over the hill, it was fantastic!

There was plenty to keep me entertained on the long ridge walk. Lots of ponies with their foals, lots of sheep, the clouds, a fighter jet and two helicopters practising their flying skills up the valley. The path was very clear too, so little thinking or navigating was required. I think even if the weather had really come down it would still have been easy to follow. But it wasn’t overdone, which was nice. Just some gravelly rock here and there, some flagstones, it all looked very natural and in keeping with the surroundings, and it was still very wiggly!

I actually came across fellow walkers today too! A few other brave (or crazy) folk out in the weather, some coming my way, some always just ahead of me. I caught up with a couple of ladies walking Offa’s Dyke and we passed each other a few times before eventually, below Hay Bluff, walking together the last few miles into Hay.

So today I went over the highest point both of Offa’s Dyke and my route to date, at just over 700m. The views were just incredible. I literally could see for miles and miles, I was on top of the world! As I neared Hay Bluff (the path doesn’t actually go to the trig point and having been even higher I didn’t go down to it) I was intrigued to see a few more people about, some of who were in questionable footwear. The reason became clear as I rounded the hill – there’s a car park not far from the top!

There were fantastic views back toward Hay Bluff and its companion, Lord Hereford’s Knob (I kid you not!), although the ridgeway we’d come along was well hidden from view. The route then dropped steadily down through a series of fields and tracks before suddenly Hay-on-Wye comes into view right in front. We welcomed the sight of the first cafe and gladly dropped our packs for a coffee, cake and wee stop! Other than to take photos I hadn’t stopped once since putting on my waterproofs so it was quite a treat to lose the pack for a bit! I wasn’t sure how I’d cope putting it back on to walk the final mile on to the campsite but fuelled with coffee and cake and a new friend for company it wasn’t such a hardship!

The campsite is gorgeous. It’s called Radnor’s End and is very small but has stunning views back to the hills and overlooks the town. The facilities are great too, there’s even a little portacabin for tired wet hikers who don’t want to hide in their tents, although thankfully the rain is well gone now and I’ve enjoyed a sunny, if breezy, evening sitting out with the view. We even had a red kite fly over!

Gourmet dining tonight – boil in the bag chicken tikka with rice and chickpeas, followed up with chocolate pudding and a herbal tea. Yum! It’s starting to get a bit chilly now and I’ve added several layers. It’s only 8:30pm but I expect I will head into my tent and curl up in my sleeping bag soon!

It has been an amazing day, and I’m really glad to be camping tonight, it has really rounded the day off nicely! I am absolutely loving this. I am so happy 🙂

Much love to you all, and I hope you do something that makes you happy tonight 🙂 xx