Total miles: 19.1
Elevation gain: 2,150ft
Time walking: 11am – 8pm
Miles to date: 348.5
Today was a very nice day. The weather was beautiful (if a little hot!), the scenery was beautiful, the path was clear and I was feeling good! The slightly bizarre thing was that today was pretty much heading west. Feels strange to be going west when my overall route is north-east, but that’s what happens when you don’t take the direct route I guess..!
After picking up a few supplies in Waitrose in Monmouth (which made me miss cooking!) and strolling over the famous mediaeval bridge, the path didn’t take long to head out into countryside and the first few miles were along easy (albeit uphill!) forest tracks. The dappled shade was welcome respite from the already hot sun and apart from the birdsong and the breeze in the trees it was peaceful and quiet.
I missed the shade when the path headed out into farmland, but the views over rolling pastures were beautiful. Lots of sheep today. I like sheep – they look soft and cuddly and they rarely want to chase you! I did have a few cows today but all were very well behaved. I like these welsh cows! Even the two bulls I passed barely batted an eyelid at me. Phew!
The going was easy today, even with a few hills (nothing compared to yesterday, even though the elevation gain wasn’t much smaller!), with obvious, well signposted paths, and, NO STILES! I didn’t think I would actually get a stile free day but today it happened. Very exciting! My legs were very grateful, given the distance I had to cover.
I found a beautiful spot for some lunch, a big old oak tree in the middle of a field overlooking the Brecons and Black Mountains, which had a perfect seat-shaped hollow. As I ate my lunch in the oak’s dappled shade I was treated to an aerial display by a red kite – my first of this journey! I love red kites, I’ve been fascinated by them ever since I read a book about a boy who rescued a red kite chick from poachers and raised it. They used to be virtually extinct in the U.K. but were reintroduced and are now thriving. They are more beautiful than buzzards, with a reddish-brown colour and striking white and black undersides to their wings, and a distinctive fork in their tails. Buzzards are more of a uniform golden-brown, paler underneath with a wedge-shaped tail. Kites also have a more dramatic flight and are fun to watch!
The next exciting part of the day was visiting the White Castle, a well-preserved 12th and 13th century castle on top a hill with fantastic views all around. Remarkably (compared to English standards), it was free to visit! I explored a little having left my bag on the bench, bouncing around and walking rather strangely without the weight on my back!
With only 5 miles to go and a beautiful evening I didn’t feel too tired despite having walked 14 miles already. A few steep sideways downhills though took their toll on my ankles and at the next uphill I started to tire quickly. Thankfully there was a well-placed pub at the top of a particularly steep section and I had to give credit to whoever does their marketing – strategically placed posters started to appear on gates along the path from about a mile away, with a “well done! Only 200m to go!” sign with a picture of a nice cold pint at the top. I didn’t need further encouragement – I’d forgo the pint but a half of coke with ice and lemon, yes please! The pub was right next to a very beautiful and slightly unusual white-washed church and the beer garden was sunny and peaceful. I could have stopped right there, and if it hadn’t been for the fact that I already had a long day on the next day of walking I probably would have!
As it was I pushed on for the last two miles to Pandy and had a glorious view of the Black Mountains as I crested the hill. Suddenly Dartmoor seemed quite small…! I was suddenly very glad I’d decided to take a rest day tomorrow! The day after tomorrow I have a long climb up to the top of the Hatterell Ridge, and a long, high walk for the majority of the day. I am really looking forward to it, but it will be a tough walk and I’m relieved that I have a rest day to ensure I’m fresh for it!
Dropping down into Pandy I had a half mile walk along the road to reach the Old Pandy Inn where I am staying for the next two nights. Very relieved to have found somewhere, given that I only phoned around this morning! I struck lucky too, I’m staying in the bunk room but I’m the only person in there! It’s a comfy room too, with sofas and an ensuite! Big room for one at dorm prices, amazing 🙂 Celebrating the long walk and the accommodation win with a glass of wine, a big bowl of pasta bolognaise and a sticky toffee pudding and feeling rather satisfied! I have a feeling I will sleep well tonight…!
Xx
