Total miles: 17.9
Elevation gain: 2,390 ft
Time walking: 10am – 6:30pm
Miles walked to date: 194.8
Today was another long, hilly and very pleasant day! Once again a lot of the route wasn’t incredibly interesting, but there were some definite highlights and I had some more company! My friend Antonia who I stayed with last night (and hadn’t seen since we left school about 16 years ago!) walked the first 6 miles with me today (and then ran back….she’s training for a marathon….crazy girl…if I can judge…).
Our route took us out of Crediton and through the small but lovely Shobrooke park, then through a field of golden oats which made for some great photos (Antonia played photographer for the morning so I have some more action shots whoop!), followed by the village of Shobrooke itself (where I nearly took us in completely the wrong direction, oops! I don’t seem to concentrate on my route as much when I have company…!) and then a few miles of road with occasional views over rolling farmland. We made fairly quick progress despite the gentle hills, and then I took us up a VERY big hill. It was something of a diversion as we could have carried along the road, but it was one of those hills on the map which just looks like it will have something special to offer…
It did! Not only did we meet a gorgeous family – a grandmother, mother and four beautiful children – who donated some money, shared their sweets with us and told us about the Parrot Tree, but the views were sensational! Devon rolled out beneath us and to the west we could just see Dartmoor (misty today!). To the south we could see the Sidmouth Gap and even a small section of sea – the only glimpse I’ll see of the south coast other than my very first two days! Sadly at the top of the hill the 6 mile mark meant it was time for Antonia to head back, and it was onwards and temporarily downwards for me.
The family had mentioned a good pub in the next village, Thorverton (the Thorverton Arms) so I decided to make a proper lunch stop there. The last few days I’ve not been terribly good at eating a proper lunch, so as it was a Sunday and the pub fell conveniently at the halfway point, I decided to have a Sunday roast. It was also a nice chance for an early boots-off-break – it was hot and sticky again today and my feet were getting very warm! There were two families together in the beer garden and we had a great chat while I was eating my lunch. They also donated some money! I just love people. Every day I am amazed and touched at how chatty people are and how many well-wishers I pick up along the way! It is a real morale booster and really makes me feel like I’m really not alone in this, even if I may be physically walking it on my own.
From Thorverton I picked up the Exe Valley Way which climbed up another big hill (seriously, Devon is HILLY!!) along a little country road, then dropped down into the valley for a few miles before finally joining the River Exe at Bickleigh (those last few miles got a little tedious!). On top of the hill I was amazed to find some ripe blackberries. I don’t think I’ve ever seen wild blackberries this early before, so I excitedly scoffed every one I found. Yum! I love the fact I’ll be walking through autumn as I love foraging and am excited to see what I find along my way. I just didn’t expect the harvest to start so soon!
I had a little bit of mizzle along the top of the hill and a few spots of rain into Bickleigh but actually it was quite welcome given the mugginess. I still can’t believe how lucky I have been with the weather. Long may it continue! For my sake and everybody else’s!
Bickleigh has a castle (I think privately owned) which is small but pretty, and a very old bridge over which the main road runs (single lane…plus a hiker blocking the way…), and a beautiful spot by the river. I stopped off at Bickleigh Mill for an ice cream and a second boots-off-break (hoping this isn’t going to become a daily necessity…!). The ice cream was amazing. Cappuccino crunch! I think the girl took pity on me with my big bag and gave me an extra big scoop – it was enormous!
There were lots of families around and it looked like there was some sort of treasure hunt going on, with kids were clutching bits of paper and hurrying to different areas excitedly. On closer inspection there were clues they had to answer like “what type of tree is this clue attached to?” which I got very excited about as I love it when children (and adults!) are engaging with nature, and I have a particular soft spot for tree identification!
Soon it was time for boots back on for the last 3.5 miles to Tiverton, along a very promising-looking path that ran along the River Exe and through some woods. On the way out I passed a peacock, as you do (haven’t seen one in years – so beautiful!), and a friendly woman who warned me it was quite a long way to Tiverton. I smiled wryly and couldn’t resist returning “it’s ok, it’s not as far as I’ve come!”. I allow myself a chuckle thinking of her expression of shock and amazement when she saw my sign and realised I had walked from Land’s End and was walking all the way to John O’Groats 🙂
As predicted the last section of the walk was lovely. As I walked along the river I suddenly heard a sound that was incredibly distinctive but one I hadn’t heard for a while – the piping call of a kingfisher! My eyes darted to the river and sure enough, there was the telltale streak of blue zooming past. Yes! Made my day! Kingfishers are great because they always give themselves away by their call as they fly. Once you know the sound it is very easy to recognise, and they are such pretty birds! They don’t stay still for very long so sometimes a flash of colour is all you see, but that’s still special. I was in for a treat today though; further along the river I heard the call again, stopped, looked and saw the kingfisher fly to a perch right in my line of sight. He was tiny, but I could clearly see his orange chest and blue back. I waited until he flew off again, then moved on, happy. A little further on and it was the buzzard’s turn to put on a show. I heard her calling, and then I realised I could hear what I think must have been her chicks, calling back. I couldn’t have been far from the nest, judging by the sound and the fact she was circling right over head (with a safe canopy of trees between us, thankfully!).
As is usual on a long day like this, a few miles from the end I was starting to feel my feet. My left foot is fine but my right foot has the beginning of a blister on the inner edge of the ball of my foot. It’s not big but it’s a tough one, and just down to the pressure of walking. I’ll need to check it tomorrow and decide whether a blister plaster will help or not. I also have a blister on the underside of my little toe, which is one I tend to get if my feet have been getting too hot, so I’ll need to keep an eye on that too! Otherwise doing ok. My brother is booking me a sports massage for my rest day, which I am looking forward to as my back has felt pretty tight the last two days. Pippa (my osteopath) would have a field day right now! In fact, if there happens to be any osteopaths reading this who are along my route, I’d be glad of a few cracks to my back!!
Tonight I am staying with the lovely mum of a friend of a friend (the power of networks eh?!) who has looked after me very well. Tea, nibbles, a bath, homemade quiche, dessert, a hug and an early night. How lucky am I?!
A very long day ahead of me tomorrow – around 24 miles – which puts it in the running for the longest day distance wise of the entire three months…eek! Best get some sleep then…!
Much love xx
