Daily updates – Page 7 – jlemarinel-lejog.com

August 15, 2017February 16, 2018

Day 42: Poynton to Edale

Total miles: 16.6

Elevation gain: 2,876ft

Time walking: 11am – 6pm

Miles to date: 612.4

And she’s back! Today was glorious! Yesterday’s extra food intake and earlier-than-planned finish, along with waking up to a gorgeous sunny morning, seems to have done the trick and my spirits were high. I had the much anticipated Lyme Park to look forward to and I would finally reach the Peak District and its glorious hills! And I’d hit the 600 mile mark! 600 miles! My mind is just blown by that figure…

After a slow start (making the most of the sun to dry out my tent!), I headed back to the canal for a short while, squeezing through the tiniest gap in the wall to reach it. It was one of those beautiful, fresh and delightfully sunny mornings and it was very peaceful along the canal and in the fields as I climbed up my first hill of several today. Passing through a small farm I came across three women with a group of dogs, looking rather puzzled. I soon saw why. The path into the Lyme Park estate went over a huge ladder stile and there wasn’t a big enough gap in the fence to enable to the dogs to squeeze through. The ironic thing was that there was a sign right there saying that dogs were welcome but they had to be kept on leads. Welcome…if you can work out how to get them in! After a little bit of encouragement they managed to persuade the younger dogs to climb/jump up the stile and down the other side but to get the older dog over they had to have one of them pick the dog up (and it was a collie, we’re not talking a small dog here!) and pass him to someone waiting at the top, to climb down with. Quite the operation for a gentle walk in the countryside!

The path continued to climb and the views out across Cheshire behind me were growing increasingly expansive. I also came across my first heather of this section of the journey, its soft honey fragrance wafting through the warm sunny air. I could have laid down in the heather, face bathed in the sun, listening to the gentle munching and grunting of the sheep grazing nearby, all day! But I had the promise of a home-cooked roast dinner waiting for me which was just about enough to keep me on my feet!

I could tell I was nearing the main part of Lyme Park as the number of people started to increase, the paths started getting more distinct and the surroundings grew more formal and landscaped. Sure enough it wasn’t long before the big house came into view, the bustling car park just below. Lyme Park is a gorgeous stately home which became particularly famous when BBC’s Pride and Prejudice was filmed there. “The” Mr Darcy scene (the one with the lake and the white shirt….) being the most memorable for many! You have to pay to get into the house and the immediate grounds and apparently it is well worth the visit. I didn’t have the time to do it justice today so I just did the loop around the outer fence, not quite close enough to get a really good shot of the famous view of the house overlooking the lake, but good enough to feel I’ve seen it.

It was quite bizarre to be surrounded by people again, even though it wasn’t long since I’d walked a short way through busy Chester. It always seems strange, to see people out enjoying their Sunday, when for me it’s just one more day on my long journey. Some people look at me curiously, some smile, a few say hello or ask where I’ve come from/where I’m going. Some are absorbed with their children or dogs or each other and don’t notice this little slice of adventure walking past them. It’s not a complaint or a judgement, it’s just an interesting reflection about all the things around us that we maybe don’t see!

I walk up the hill to a viewpoint overlooking the back of the house, out to Manchester and “The Cage”, a tower within the park which stands on its own little knoll with stunning views. I didn’t walk out to the Cage, figuring I’d have plenty of my own views soon enough as I climbed higher into the Peak District. My route skirted up and past the Red Deer Park (gosh those deer have a good view!) along a section of the Gritstone Trail to Bollinhurst Bridge. A few squelchy fields later and the view opens up to the moors ahead of me, the Kinder Plateau looming on the horizon, still impossibly far away and yet only a day’s walk away. My heart quivers with excitement. they always look beautiful, but in the bright afternoon sun they look crisply enticing, and I can’t quite believe I have the good fortune to be headed that way!

KJ enjoying a spot of sunshine with The Cage in the background

Tomorrow I’ll be walking along the ridge in the distance (Kinder Plateau)

On the way down into Furness Vale I very nearly had a run-in with some cows, the first I’ve encountered in a while. As I was walking through the field towards them, a group of young beef bulls I think, they spot me and start trotting in my direction. I eye them warily, wondering if they are going to break into a full on gallop. I eye the dry stone wall next to me. It’s about hip height. I look back to the oncoming cavalcade…and decide to hop over the wall, heart racing a little and feeling incredibly grateful for a solid stone wall rather than flimsy and spiky barbed wire! The bulls reach the wall and look at me rather confusedly, as if they are wondering how I escaped them or were disappointed not to have a game of football with me. I joke, but cattle can actually be very dangerous. I know I’ve been lucky so far, and my heart was pounding as I got lucky once more. Thankfully the cattle quickly lost interest and headed on the way I had come, as I had to cross back into the field a bit further on in order to reach the stile at the other end.

Passing a pub in Furness Vale I decided to pop in to use the loo and see whether it would be a nice place to stop for a glass of something cold. It wasn’t! You know that feeling when you walk into a room and everyone turns to stare….yeah, that! It didn’t feel like the sort of place a young, single woman would usually venture on her own, let alone a foreigner to these parts! As I was there I used the loo anyway, but promptly hurried out without buying a drink, deciding I’d stop for a break part way up the next hill instead.

Heading out of Furness Vale (via Gowhole, Shedyard Clough and up to New Allotments, if you’re trying to figure out my route on a map!) the route climbed up. And up. And up! A couple passed me as I paused for breath and I looked enviously at their light day packs. I passed them a bit further up as they stopped for a break, then they passed me again when I finally stopped for my lunch at the top, looking back out to the Cage in Lyme Park, which seemed to be too far away to have walked past it just a few hours earlier. After my lunch I negotiated some muddy paths churned up by mountain bikes and horses to find the path I wanted which headed down to the Chapel Road and up to join the Pennine Bridleway.

Now I felt like I was properly in the peaks! Looking at the map it amused me to see I’d be heading south for the last few miles to reach my destination – Edale. A sensible person would continue East-North-East and pick up the Pennine Way north of Jacob’s Ladder, but this crazy fool is determined to start the Pennine Way from the very beginning! Of course, there’s the friendly host and roast dinner to look forward to in Edale too, so it’s not completely nonsensical! I did manage to confuse a couple of mountain bikers who stopped to chat. they assumed I was walking JOGLE rather than LEJOG. I could see them questioning my navigation abilities and wondering whether to correct me when I told them no, I was indeed walking to John O’Groats. they actually seemed somewhat relieved when I told them why I was currently heading south, rather than north!

My route followed the Pennine Bridleway for the next 4 or so miles, an absolute delight on a sunny summer’s afternoon. I skirted the deliciously named hilltops of Mount Famine and South Head and paused for a break in the pleasant little nook of Roych Clough where several streams sparkle their way down off the moors and converge to cross the path at a ford and small bridge. My water was running low and getting rather warm in the heat of the day so I decided I would christen my water filter. I’d bought it for emergencies really, but a friend had pointed out that it would make sense to make use of it more generally, to save me carrying so much water! And oh, what a good suggestion. Not only was it rather fun to collect water from the stream and suck it through the filter, it was refreshingly cool and thirst-quenching to drink. I had a good guzzle then refilled once more and, feeling enlivened by the combination of fun and rehydration, quickened my pace for the last few miles.

I left the Pennine Bridleway to drop down over Rushup Edge along the Chapel Gate track into the Edale Valley. Ahead of me I could see the approximate route of the Pennine Way snaking through the valley, meeting the hills at the notorious Jacob’s Ladder, which was just tucked away out of sight. It was strange, to think I’d be walking back that way tomorrow morning! The path into Edale from the tiny Barber Booth was well signposted and I arrived with perfect timing, just as David, my host for the night, pulled up in his car!

The Edale valley and the route of the start of the Pennine Way below

I was excited to meet David – not only a fellow actuary but also a fellow end-to-ender! He did the route in reverse, walking from John O’Groats to Land’s End 20 years ago, and it was great to swap experiences. He ‘reassured’ me that the feeling probably would come back in my toes….although it might take 12 months…(yikes!). David and his partner Ally had cooked me a gorgeous (and huuuuge) roast dinner which needless to say got wolfed down rather hungrily. Followed by a delicious homemade sponge pudding with custard. And wine. Heaven! I know food always tastes better after exercise, but this was seriously good food. And such gorgeous people. Once again, one of the best things about this journey is the incredible people I’m meeting, the new friends I’m making!

Tomorrow is set to be tough but brilliant – the notorious first day of the Pennine Way! I can’t express how excited I am, although that excitement is tinged with a little apprehension. They say that a large proportion of people who start but don’t finish the Pennine Way give up in the first two days! Eek! I figure I’ve had a good warm up though… David is going to walk the first few miles with me so it will be lovely to have a spot of company again, and we are going to take the original starting route rather than the route that goes up Jacob’s Ladder. The Grindsbrook route is apparently far prettier, albeit a little more challenging. The Pennine Way, finally here!

August 12, 2017February 16, 2018

Day 41: Knolls Green to Poynton

Total miles: 14.8

Elevation gain: 1,122 ft

Time walking: 10:30am – 7:15pm

Miles to date: 595.8

I’m pleased to report that today ended a lot better than most of the day went! For some reason I found today really, really hard. It was not a challenging walk and there was nothing in particular that went wrong, I just struggled to get into my groove. I guess the obvious reason is that I was tired from yesterday, a long day, and knowing I had a long day again today (something I’ve tried to avoid) put the pressure on a bit. I started off slowly even just getting out of bed, and regretted not doing a few more stretches before I fell asleep, but Carl and Jen made me a lovely breakfast and coffee so although I didn’t start until an hour later than planned, I felt pretty good.

And then I felt the blister. Insert horrified/terrified emoji here! It was only a teensy tiny blister, just on the inner edge of the ball of my right foot, closer to the arch than my previous blisters. I could instantly tell it was the result of walking in wet socks for a couple hours yesterday, and I kicked myself for my laziness in not changing into waterproof socks when my boots got wet. Lesson learned! Thankfully it was early days and with a compeed on it, it hasn’t given me too much trouble. Phew!

The first few miles I decided to follow a slightly more direct route on country roads rather than heading on random wiggly footpaths – I figured I could use the shorter distance, and it would allow the fields to dry off a bit before tackling them! This of course meant a few miles of tarmac but progress was swift and steady, save for the occasional dives into hedges at the sight of a particularly juicy looking blackberry (they are amazing up here!) and the frequent map consults to confirm my route. I passed lots of big houses and shiny cars…well, I am near Wilmslow and Alderley Edge!

At one point I passed a huge tomato farm and it was quite strange to see the massive greenhouses housing giant tomato plants with fruit that looked like it surely must be sprayed with something resembling steroids. I thought appreciatively back to Jen’s homegrown tomatoes last night. When you see how fruit and veg is grown en masse, it really makes you think a bit more about what you are eating! When we are wandering around the supermarket trying to find the cheapest offer out there, I think we forget to wonder where that food has come from…

Soon after the tomato farm I enter the village of Nether Alderley. I’d planned to get up the hill to a viewpoint to stop for a shake and a break but I was feeling peckish so stopped to get something tasty from my bag. An elderly gentleman who lived across the road came over to ask if I was ok, and when he heard what I was doing he invited me in for a cup of tea and a biscuit! I nearly refused politely as I wanted to get on, but he seemed so sweet and I supposed that I could use a loo break, and a cup of tea would go down nicely! So I went in with him and sat chatting to him and his wife over a lovely cup of tea, getting some love from their gorgeous and friendly cat Shadow at the same time. I managed to avoid a rain shower too! I didn’t stay long as we all had things to do but they gave me a donation and wished me well. They were very sweet, and I think I made their day!

Beautiful carving from an old tree stump

As I headed up the hill, much later than planned and now even hungrier, another rain shower came over so I had to stop again to don the waterproofs. Halfway up the hill, rain stopped and the sun came out, roasting! Stop again to take the waterproofs off. I haven’t even gone 5 miles yet! Given I had an 18-20 mile day, this wasn’t a good start! When I finally got up the hill I picked up the North Cheshire Way which I’d be following for most of the rest of the day, and I started to look for a nice place to stop. As much as part of me really didn’t want to stop again, I could feel myself getting tired and my resilience slipping, so I told myself I’d find a pretty spot and have a proper break, some good sustenance and a mindset change! Thankfully I found a nice spot in the sun on a fallen tree trunk in a pretty wood, so I sat myself down, made my shake and gave myself a pep talk while drinking it!

I did feel better after that, so started to make quicker progress again with fewer stops. It was still a case of checking the map at every turn, as the NCW wasn’t always clearly signposted, although thankfully the paths and stiles were fairly clear.

I could feel that I was tired though, and for the first time so far this trip I wasn’t sure if I would be able to make the distance, at least not arriving at any sort of sensible time! This got me down a bit, as I really didn’t want to fall behind, but I figured I’d keep going and see how I went. At least I knew I had plenty of daylight left! The walk was a pretty one, across fields and through little woods, and every now and then I could see the uplands of the Peak District where I was headed, albeit just to the very edge tonight.

By the time I neared the village of Addlington, about 8 or 9 miles in, I was finally feeling like I was back in my stride a bit, albeit tired and really feeling the weight of my pack. It feels like it’s just a bit too heavy now, like it has just tipped over the weight I could manage, but unless I take out some of the food which I need for the Pennine Way there’s not much I can do about it! At Addlington there was a pub so I decided to stop for a break and to use the loo and maybe get a bowl of chips to keep me going. It turned out it was a Toby Carvery, which only does roast dinners, but given it was only £6.49 I decided to go for it. The moment I ate the first mouthful I realised just how ravenous I was, and I demolished the rest of the plate rather quickly! And I felt so much better after that! I guess my body just really needed some extra calories today! Someone did warn me that about a month into the journey my body would suddenly catch up with me in terms of the number of calories I’d need to eat. I had been feeling rather smug about how well I seemed to have been managing my calorie intake and maintaining my weight, but clearly today, about 6 weeks in, my body finally caught up! Lesson learned…

My boots were off to give my feet a breather so I checked my map, and spotted another campsite I hadn’t noticed before. I hadn’t looked at it because it was this side of Lyme Park which I was supposed to go through today, but when I measured the map it would only add 4-5 miles to tomorrow to stay there tonight. Given that tomorrow was originally going to be a shorter day, and that the shortening of today would save me 4 miles, I decided to go for it.

Best decision ever! After a lovely walk along the canal in the early evening sunlight, I arrived at the campsite just after 7, which meant I have had lots of time to rest, do some stretches, dry out the tent and eat a second dinner (and write this blog!), so hopefully I should feel more rested for tomorrow. It will mean an early start, but I felt I needed to listen to my body (and my emotions!) and not push it today.

Tonight is a beautifully clear evening, which means it will be cold and dewy but also that it is perfect conditions to watch the Perseids meteor shower! So I’m going to go and see how many meteors I can spot 🙂

Night night! Xx

August 12, 2017February 16, 2018

Day 40: Acton Bridge to Knolls Green

Total miles: 20.5

Elev gain: 914 ft

Time walking: 10:45am – 7:45pm

Miles to date: 580

Today was always going to be a long day and I knew it would feel harder having said goodbye to Eunice and with a much heavier bag following a restock of supplies. But considering I started out feeling a bit flat, and not quite as energised by my rest day as I would have liked, it turned out to be a better day than I thought it might!

The first part of the day followed the River Weaver, spotting great crested grebes with their funky hair-do and grey herons with their long legs and slow, steady flight. I followed the river as far as the big double locks where the river splits into two to create the Weaver Navigation (I think effectively a canal straightening out bits of the very wiggly river). The locks were huge – big enough for two narrow boats side by side – but sadly I didn’t get to see any boats going through. Shortly after the locks I cut up to the Trent & Mersey Canal, just a short distance away up a big bank, which I’d be following for the next 5 or so miles.

Canals can be both beautiful and a bit dull to walk along. This one was actually fairly interesting as it was quite busy with boats and the landscape changed around it quite frequently – tunnels, bends, woodland, marinas – and of course the famous boat lift at Anderton, where a (now electrified) contraption literally lifts boats from the Weaver Navigation down below to the Trent and Mersey canal at the top, and vice versa.

After a quick coffee and loo break (got to make the most of civilisation while it lasts…not long til 3 weeks of fairly remote walking on the Pennine Way!) I continued on into another leafier section of the canal and see two boys climbing in and out the hedge. One sees me and comes running along. Reaching me, he excitedly offers me a slightly squashed blackberry. “Would you like a blackberry? It’s not poisonous!” he announces proudly. I take offered blackberry, smiling at him. He smiled and looked at me with big eyes. “You’re very pretty”, he told me sweetly. Awww! Followed by “please can I have your number?” Oh dear….being chatted up by a 7 year old….well there’s a new one!

A few miles out of Anderton, skirting around the northern edge of Northwich, the canal passes some big industrial areas. I assume they are salt works, as Northwich (and the other wich-es in the area) grew up around the salt industry. The factories were big, noisy and smelly, fascinating but a world away from the quiet, beautiful hills and mountains in Wales and the remote moors and upland I’d come across once I reached the Peak District and onwards!

It’s not always all green and beautiful!

I left the canal just as I reached this industrial section and headed across country following footpaths across fields and a long track following the course of the railway, headed for the village of Plumley. I managed to pick up a post office stamp here, not technically the finish point but I didn’t think I’d get to the post office in Knutsford. There was also an open pub just down the road, the Golden Pheasant, so I popped in for a quick (and expensive!) glass of coke, well-timed as I missed a good drizzle shower!

I had intended to cross the M6 at what looked like an underpass on the map – a little road went right up to it and there was a matching track the other side – but frustratingly when I got there it was a dead end, with no way across. Argh! It had started to drizzle and I was supposed to be meeting Jen (my host for the night who was joining me for the last few miles of today’s walk) not far from the other side of the non-existent underpass, so I was somewhat annoyed! Thankfully I managed to find a different path on the map which wasn’t too far out of the way and had a very clear crossing of the M6 alongside the railway. I had to fight through some waist height nettles and a short section of ankle deep mud to get there (clearly not a very well used path, but good prep for the Pennine Way?!) but eventually I made it over the motorway. I distinctly remember driving under this bridge (or at least, a similar one in the vicinity) about 6 weeks ago on my way home from a meeting in Manchester. I remember thinking “I’ll be walking across that soon!”, and can’t believe that has now actually happened. It all seemed a bit of a distant dream back then! The motorway was very busy this evening and even though it was misting with rain and I was getting a little damp, I still didn’t envy all the people in their cars, stuck in the heavy, near-stationary traffic!

I’m wet, but at least I’m not stuck in traffic!

I probably should have put my waterproofs on at this point but I was hot and already damp, and I figured it wouldn’t be long until I was done for the day. It was a silly decision! The drizzle kept going steadily, the kind that craftily gets you really wet without you realising, and although after meeting Jen (having successfully arranged a slightly different meeting point) we followed roads for a while along the southern edge of Knutsford, it was not long before we were back in fields with crops and long grass. I soon wished I had my waterproof trousers on! My boots and trousers quickly became saturated, but thankfully at least it wasn’t cold!

We walked past some beautiful big houses – Cheshire has far more than it’s fair share, I’m sure – and properties with big gates hiding from view the mysterious homes beyond. This is getting towards the land of the footballers!

At one point our path followed along the edge of a damp and overgrown maize field and as we reached the hedge to cross into the next field we were faced with maize as far as the eye could see, with our path squeezed between rows of towering, wet plants. There was no way we were getting through there without getting absolutely soaked through, if I could even fit through with my pack! We ended up cutting along a private track which took us to the main road through Mobberly, and managed to find another (far more forgiving) track beyond two very nice looking pubs. So tempting to stop right there…! Along the track Jen showed me some plants which I have seen lots of already, but what I didn’t know was that if you touch the seed pods they explode! Cue lots of fun, shrieks and giggles as I had to find all of the seed pods to touch…

Finally we made it to Knolls Green which was our target for the day, wet and rather hungry. Jen’s other half was picking us up, and when we got home it was a very welcome cup of tea, a hot bath, dry socks and a BBQ with meat from the local butcher. Yum! That meat was amazing! And home grown tomatoes, divine! Happy face! After 20 miles I’m exhausted, and slightly worried about the fact that I have another 20 miles to do tomorrow, in wet boots. But I’ve had a lovely soak in the bath and tomorrow I’m headed past Alderley Edge and then through Lyme Park, where Pride & Prejudice was filmed, which I’m looking forward to! For now…sleeeeeep!

August 11, 2017February 16, 2018

Day 39: Rest Day

Total miles: 0!

Actually not quite true, my B&B host Sue kindly ran me into Frodsham, the local market town, to do a few errands and pick up some supplies.

Then I rested, ate lots, had a nap, and planned the next few days walking…

Eunice arrived late afternoon and it was so good to catch up properly. The sun was out so we sat in the garden with a cup of tea, playing with Sue’s very cute dog and admiring her apple orchard (she makes her own apple juice!).

I worry I’ll find it hard to get going again tomorrow!

August 11, 2017February 16, 2018

Day 38: Chester to Acton Bridge

Total miles: 18.6

Elevation gain: 1,037 ft

Time walking: 9am – 6pm

Miles to date: 559.5

Today was a nice day. It wasn’t remarkable as far as days walking go, but there were some lovely bits, my body survived the third long day in a row, and I got to meet up with some old university friends for an early lunch en route.

I made an earlyish start from Chester, a little sad that I didn’t have more time to explore but given that the reason I’d moved my rest day (originally planned for today) was so that I could spend tomorrow afternoon and evening with one of my dearest friends, it was a sacrifice worth making!

I don’t go through many big towns and cities on this route but when I do there is always an art to finding the prettiest route in and out. For Chester, this was the canal. I dropped back to the spot where I’d left it last night and followed it for another mile or so before cutting up along some suburban streets to pick up the Longster Trail. Along the way a friendly postman came over to chat, it turns out he is a keen backpacker too and we had a nice conversation, with him wishing me well as I headed on. I always find people’s reactions interesting. Some people are utterly amazed at what I’m doing, some think I’m bonkers, others think it’s pretty cool and are a little envious. You can always tell fellow hikers though, there is a sense of respect, understanding, shared passion and support. We are a crazy bunch, us hikers!

I picked up the Longster Trail – which disappointingly has a very uninteresting waymarker – just an arrow with “longster trail” written on it (I think it’s a Cheshire thing, I followed three different trails and they all had the same style waymarker!) – and followed it across pretty farmland up to the village of Great Barrow. There is a gorgeous little cafe called the Bluebell Cafe on the Barrowmere Estate where I met up with Jo and Rich who I hadn’t seen since Durham! Kudos to them on logistics – they were returning to Durham from the Isle of Man via Rich’s parents in Liverpool and managed to work in meeting me en route! We had a lovely early lunch together (a huge tuna melt jacket potato, scrumptious lemon curd cake and a latte) and I could have curled up and snoozed afterwards! Alas I had another 13 miles to go so I had to get a wriggle on!

Soon after Great Barrow I left the Longster Trail to cut across farmland on other footpaths until I picked up the Baker Way. As I faced overgrown field edges I thought longingly back to the lovely clear Offa’s Dyke and Coast paths! The first field was the worst (pushing through waist high broad beans tangled with brambles, thistles and nettles….) and then thankfully it got a bit easier. The plus side was that there were soooo many big fat juicy blackberries today. I wished I could have collected some…not that I could have eaten any more…!

My route took me to the edge of Delamere Forest and once there I took a big deep lungful of the pine-filled air. Ahhhh. This was heaven! Soft walking along pine needle-coated paths, muffled footsteps and the sound of the breeze high up in the tree tops. I love walking through forests with pine trees, the smell takes me right back to when we used to go camping at my favourite campsite, where my friends and I would run around for hours through pine forests. I followed a slightly circuitous route as I wanted to head to some toilets marked on the map. Frustratingly they didn’t exist so I looped back to the next promising spot – Delamere train station, where I knew I could also stop for some ice cream (recommended by Rich). The path took me around Blakemere Moss, a lake in the middle of the forest, but you only got a few glimpses of it through the thick trees that lined the shore. Great for the wildlife, not so great for people wanting to see the wildlife! The route also went under the Go Ape course which looked really fun. It’s still something I’ve never done! One for the bucket list. Arriving at the station I saw the cafe but couldn’t see any ice cream. Ah well, I needed a break so I had a pot of tea and a lovely apple and cinnamon scone while I took my boots off and had a look at the rest of my route. I was pleasantly surprised to find I only had another 4 or 5 miles left! My feet and legs were starting to feel it though, so I was pretty glad.

When I re-booted, loaded up and headed off, I finally spotted the ice cream just around the corner from the cafe. Doh! Still…it only took me a couple of seconds to decide to have an ice cream too! It was delicious!

I followed the Delamere Way out of the forest and caught up with a woman out walking with two boys who were sword fighting with sticks. We chatted as we walked together for about half a mile, before I suddenly realised I had missed a turn while we’d been chatting! Feeling rather sheepish, I said farewell and made an about turn, picking up the right route once more. I had a long stretch along the mostly quiet road to Crowton before picking up a nice bridleway for the last mile or so to my stop for the next two nights, Ash House Farm B&B. Oh my goodness this place is beautiful! I am staying in one of the rooms in the converted fruit store and it is luxurious compared to my hostel and camping nights! I even have a bath!

After making the most of the bath I headed out for the 1 mile stroll to the nearest pub for dinner. It probably seems a bit daft to walk another mile after walking so far already, but it’s amazing how different it is walking without the bag and in different shoes. Not that flip flops can really be called shoes, and they aren’t exactly ideal walking attire, but they make a change for a gentle stroll! It was a stunning golden-sun evening and it was pleasant to stretch the legs and meander leisurely. The food at the pub was basic but delicious and everyone was so friendly. A local couple donated £10! By the time I was done it was mostly dark, but there was enough light in the sky to find my way back and it was incredibly peaceful (other than when the trains came whizzing though (it’s on the west coast mainline!)). The moon was just past full and was just rising, a beautiful and slightly eerie orangey yellow. It would have been a stunning night to camp. Still, I’m incredibly happy to be curled up in my nice comfy bed…!

Tomorrow is my rest day which is definitely needed after three days of 17 mile plus days in a row. In fact, in the last 7 consecutive days of walking, only two days have been shorter than 17 miles! I have a couple of long days coming up too, so I’m going to make the most of putting my feet up. Eunice (my housemate and one of dearest friends) is coming up tomorrow for the night and bringing me hugs and more supplies. Can’t wait!

August 10, 2017February 9, 2018

Day 37: Bagillt to Chester

Total miles: 19.2

Elevation gain: 451 ft

Time walking: 8:30am – 5pm

Miles to date: 540.9

Today was a day of three distinct sections, and although I finished relatively early compared to some of my long days, it felt loooong!

The day started off perfectly, with an early start, making a cup of tea and munching on some granola as the sun rose all hazy over my campsite. There was a very heavy dew which meant my tent was rather damp but it was so fresh and peaceful that it didn’t really bother me. I packed up and made a move, supplementing my breakfast of granola and welshcakes with the numerous blackberries growing along the path.

My plan was to make it to Flint, about 4 miles along the coast, for a second breakfast and to pick up some water (I didn’t really bring enough with me last night). I didn’t go as quickly as I’d planned as it was just so beautiful! I remembered how much I love walking in the early morning and decided I would try to have a few earlier starts. The estuary was incredibly calm and peaceful, the water was so still it reflected the clouds nearly perfectly. The only life seemed to be a handful of seabirds flying along, suddenly plummeting into the water to catch fish, then rapidly rising and continuing their flight, leaving only the slow circular spread of ripples to mark their dive. I made my way along fairly slowly, just enjoying the peace, feeling incredibly happy and lucky to be doing what I’m doing. I wanted to make the most of the wide, calm estuary and fresh air as I knew soon I was heading towards the much more industrial section of the Dee!

A peaceful start to the day along the Dee estuary

As I neared Flint I kept an eye out for the castle. It is one I’ve wanted to see ever since I saw Shakespeare’s Richard II, one act of which is set in Flint Castle. I was surprised that it only made an appearance as I rounded the last bend, past the old Flint dock. It was tucked away much more than I expected, from the seaward side at least. It’s much more prominent from the other direction which seemed the wrong way around to me. The castle itself isn’t huge, but the four corner towers and connecting walls are all there, albeit in a state of ruin. I learnt that the castle was deliberately ruined after the civil war, when the new parliament didn’t want to risk it being used in future conflict as it had been by both sides during the war. There was a picture suggesting what it might have looked like before it was ruined and it did look quite impressive with the water coming right up to the walls (which it no longer does).

The short detour into Flint itself was a bit of a shock to the system after the quiet of the estuary – busy roads and bustling with people – but civilisation does bring the benefits of coffee and loos! I came across the characterful Court House Cafe which claims to be based in the second oldest building in town. After thoroughly enjoying my soya latte and breakfast panini a family stopped to talk to me and ask me about my trip, making a donation too. Then the owner of the cafe came over and gave me some bottles of water and juice for free to take with me. People really are so lovely!

Leaving Flint, the path soon left the estuary and followed the main road for a number of miles, into Connah’s Quay. It wasn’t the nicest section of the walk, but it was interesting to see all the massive power stations, factories and other big industrial plants which was a first for this journey. My feet didn’t enjoy the miles of tarmac, but there was plenty of that still to come!

At Connah’s Quay the path rejoins the Dee, which is just a wide brown river now, with no hint of the lazy, expansive estuary it becomes a mile or so downstream. There is a good view of the Flintshire Bridge from here, which I had been able to see since yesterday. It’s the largest asymmetrical cable-stayed bridge in the UK and it is quite beautiful, in a modern architecture way. It reminded me of a smaller, asymmetrical version of the old Severn Bridge.

The Flintshire Bridge, surrounded by the industry of Connah’s Quay

At Queensferry, after a quick detour into the Asda there (once again feeling rather out of place in all my hiking gear when everyone else is just going about their daily business!), the path shared the cycle path along the River Dee into Chester. It was four miles of perfectly straight, flat walking and it was dull and painful! For some reason (I suspect human intervention) the river here is dead straight. It was plod plod plod, with no real landmarks by which to judge distance, and by this point my legs and feet are aching. Flat walking might be quicker but it can be just as hard on your muscles as it is so repetitive, there is no alteration to gait or pace, and my legs and butt started to seize up. I had to keep stopping to stretch out and to relieve the monotony with some chocolate or sweets! The weather kept me on my toes with big black clouds all around – I could see the sheets of rain coming down – but I willed it to go around me, not over me, and remarkably other than a little drizzle I stayed dry!

Reaching the first bend in the river was a relief as past here it was only a mile to Chester, with the Welsh/English border to be crossed for the final time this trip. The border is marked by two standing stones and a “Welcome to Wales” flagstone. Interestingly, no welcome into England! On the edge of Chester I joined the Shropshire Union Canal and watched some boats going through the locks, then followed the canal along a section of the city walls before heading off to find my hostel, not far from the canal itself.

Remarkably, despite my long day, I managed to arrive at 5pm! If I hadn’t have been so tired it would have been the perfect opportunity to explore the city a little but after a couple of long days in a row I was exhausted. So my evening consisted of doing some much-needed washing, having a shower, drinking tea and stuffing myself with an amazing Indian takeout! Thankfully I have visited Chester before, so I don’t feel too bad about not going out. One more long day tomorrow and then a rest day, and I’ve found a nice b&b to stay in near Acton Bridge so it’ll be a little bit of luxury for two nights!

August 9, 2017February 9, 2018

Day 36: Prestatyn to Bagillt

Total miles: 17.5

Elevation gain: 895 ft

Time walking: 9:30am – 6:30pm

Miles to date: 521.7

The start of the third leg of my journey! This leg is the least planned of the trip other than the final leg, and as I set out this morning I had no idea where I would be staying tonight! It’s not the best way to start a day’s walking…! My hosts started me off in a better fashion, with a cup of tea and a huge bowl of porridge, for which I was very grateful. I was also grateful that the weather looked decidedly more friendly than last night, which made for a promising day of coastal walking. After not terribly successfully trying to reassure Anne that I really could carry my bag myself (she was horrified at the weight of it), she strongly recommended that I find a nice strong man to walk with me and carry it for me…. 😉 (Any takers?!)

It being just my pack and I for now, I said farewell and retraced my steps back into Prestatyn to get a post office stamp (it’s getting quite addictive!) and to make the most of actual shops to pick up something for lunch, also picking up some friendly “good lucks” as I went along.

Heading back to the seafront to pick up the Wales Coast Path, my route for the next two days, I couldn’t seem to shake a strange unsettled feeling. I don’t know exactly what it was, perhaps the combination of leaving the familiar Offa’s Dyke path, not knowing where I was going to be staying tonight and the slightly eerie air of faded seaside holiday resorts that always set me on edge for some reason! I tried to shake it off with some good deep breaths of fresh sea air but it stuck with me for a large part of the day.

It was nice to be by the sea again, which I last saw over a month ago, even if the north Wales sea doesn’t compare to the Cornish coast (sorry Wales!). The coastline was flatter, definitely, which was both strange and a relief, having climbed twice the height of Everest already this trip. Flat also means you can see for miles and indeed the coast just stretched away out either side. Across the estuary is the Birkenhead peninsula and back to the west the mountains of Snowdonia huddle on the horizon.

The first couple of miles were through sand dunes which made for hot and tiring walking, with limited views of the sea. I could hear it though, the constant coming and going of the waves on the shoreline, and the sun felt nice on my face. I had accidentally left my hat in Aurelie’s car yesterday which meant I couldn’t escape the sun very well, but I resorted to wearing my buff as a bandana to help keep the sun off my head and hair out of my eyes. I’m not sure I pull the bandana look off very well, but in the end the sun hid behind clouds for much of the rest of the day anyway.

There was a variety of wild flowers in the dunes including a striking sea holly which had a beautiful blue tinge to it. It almost looked like somebody had crept down overnight and spray painted them all, they didn’t quite look real! After the dunes came some wildlife rich mudflats, followed by beach walking. The tide was coming in which meant there wasn’t any hard sand to walk on and it was slow going, but it was pretty! Here and there I’d come across more populated sections of the beach, where people had parked up and brought their families to play, then other sections were much quieter. Stark objects like an old lighthouse standing half in the surf and well worn driftwood lying twisted on the sand made for some arty shots, and I started to relax a little. I think at this point I figured that if I didn’t find accommodation I’d just find a nice spot in the dunes to camp, and once I’d made that decision I stopped worrying about where I’d stay and just kept an eye out for a promising looking spot!

At Talacre, a little resort just around the ‘headland’, I made the most of the public loos and a lovely little cafe called Lola and Suggs which served gluten free bread and almond milk! So I decided to stop for elevenses/early lunch and rest my feet for a bit, even though I was only 5 miles in.

Not far from Talacre (and its slightly creepy gas plant) the official route heads inland from the village of Ffynnongroyw (with the most derelict churches on one street I have ever seen – I counted about 6!) up into the woods in a gentle u-shape back to the coast at Rhewl-Mostyn. I was hopeful of a pub in Rhewl-Mostyn (I’m not sure why, given my usual luck with pubs at lunchtime) but here the pub wasn’t only closed, it was non-existent! So it was back down to the estuary and on towards Greenfield (down the hill from Holywell) for supplies and hopefully somewhere to stay or to pitch my tent. I had one last search online for accommodation in Holywell and found a guesthouse run by nuns, next to a convent. For a few moments I thought it might be quite an interesting place to stay, and quite fitting given that I was a pilgrim of sorts (Holywell, with its holy waters from St. Winnifred’s well, is a place of pilgrimage for some), but in the end I decided it might be a little awkward and I had pretty much set my mind on camping now anyway.

King Jennifer enjoying the view on a short break

It was a beautiful evening and I wasn’t feeling too tired so once I reached Greenfield and stopped to consult my map I decided I’d walk on a little further towards Bagillt to find somewhere to camp, to reduce tomorrow’s mileage. First I had to pop up into Greenfield to pick up some more water (and happened to find another post office yay!). It was a little bit of a backtrack but without water I couldn’t camp. Refilled with water I headed back onto the path, passing a group of men stood chatting and watching the dock for the third time, smiling at them and saying hello again. They asked me if I was lost. No, just getting supplies, I told them cheerily.

There was a pretty stretch of marshland between the estuary and the path which might have been an appealing camping location had it not been subject to flooding when tides were high…I didn’t think it would be a problem but thought best not to risk it – I didn’t much fancy writing a story about waking up to find my tent inches deep in muddy estuary water in the middle of the night! Thankfully further on there was a little headland just before a small stream entered the estuary. Here the path cut straight along one side but the headland itself was a mixture of grass, scrub and mini hills with nice flat areas in between. A perfect spot to pitch my tent, out of the way but with plenty of space. The tent was still damp from the other day so I draped it over a tree while I made a cup of tea and did some stretching. A couple came through whilst picking blackberries and we had a pleasant conversation, they didn’t seem remotely perturbed to find me camping here! It is a lovely, peaceful spot and the sunset was a stunner, and having eaten my gourmet dinner of boil in the bag chilli con carne rounded off with some chocolate buttons and another cup of tea, I’m feeling rather contented! Time for a good night’s sleep so I can be up and gone early, and ready for the long walk to Chester!

Feeling very happy to be alive and out camping on a beautiful evening!

August 8, 2017February 9, 2018

Day 35: Bodfari to Prestatyn

Total miles: 13.6

Elevation gain: 2,353ft

Time walking: 12pm – 7pm

Miles to date: 504.2

Last day of Offa’s Dyke! I can’t quite believe it’s over, it is a path I have wanted to walk for so long and now I’ve gone and done it! I have to say I’m glad that this isn’t the finishing point for me, as it is for most people, as I don’t think I’d be ready to stop!

Today wasn’t an easy day, despite the shorter distance, for a number of reasons. Firstly, it was goodbye to Aurelie and the girls all too soon 🙁 thankfully before we said goodbye we had a wonderful breakfast together in Dyserth (after I’d carefully repacked my bag with all the new supplies they had brought with them, and re-waterproofed my jacket, trousers and boots!). Secondly, my bag was heavy again, thanks to the replenishment of supplies. Thirdly, it wasn’t the most interesting of days, after yesterday’s epic. Fourthly, the rain…

It seems a bit unfair to call the walk uninteresting as it certainly wasn’t really, in the grand scheme of things. But after two weeks of stunning walking, there’s something about the final day that just makes you want to get it done! There were a couple of hill forts, but none as spectacular as the previous day, there were some good views, although the sea never seemed to get any closer, and there were some great blackberries and raspberries! But it felt like a bit of a trudge. It didn’t help that the rain was threatening again and I put up with drizzle for a while before finally donning the waterproofs as it got heavier and heavier. For the first time on the walk the wind and rain combo actually made me feel cold and I wondered whether I should have worn the long-sleeved top that Aurelie had brought up for me! Thinking of the rain over the last couple of weeks I worked out that in the two weeks of Offa’s Dyke I had only had four days where it hadn’t rained. A little different to my first three weeks when I only had three days where it did rain! I guess my weather luck had to run out at some point. Still, I guess it’s a good sign that even with the rain I still loved Offa’s Dyke! The other good news is that my boots appear to be waterproof again, having treated them this morning. Whoop!

To make the walk a little easier I kept playing silly games with myself. Up the first hill (and a stretch along a road) it was the blackberry game. Basically, head to the next promising looking blackberry bush and reward myself with a few blackberries. It was slow but steady progress! The second was splitting each hill into little sections of 10 or so steps. “It’s all miles”, I kept repeating to myself. Every step is one less step to do!

About 7 miles in I paused on a wall for a break and to munch on the bakewell slice Aurelie bought for me from the cafe that morning (yuuum!) as the rain came down, and that cheered me up a little. I was also cheered by the fact I didn’t have to climb the impressive looking Y Foel but could admire it from below. Same for Graig Fawr which on another day would probably have been quite appealing!

I didn’t escape the climb up to the Prestatyn Hillside but happily it wasn’t too arduous a climb considering the views and the steep drop down into the town the other side! Perhaps it was just that I got distracted by the huge patch of raspberries on the way up…! As I walked along the (rather overgrown and therefore wet) path along the top of the hill I could hear a bell tolling in the village below (the call to Sunday evening prayer I’m guessing) and a line of John Donne’s poem came to me – “Ask not for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee”. I can’t remember the whole of the poem but I knew it at one time, it is the “No man is an island, entire of itself” poem. It seemed quite fitting, for it to come back to me now, as I walk alone, but not on my own (see my second post way back before I started this walk!).

Finally, Prestatyn and the finish point in view!

This proved to be a walk that keeps giving right up to the end and just when I thought the hills were over, even on top of the hillside there was another final climb before the descent at last into Prestatyn. Even then it was another mile to the actual finish, right down along Prestatyn high street! Being Sunday evening most things were shut except some bars and restaurants. I’m tempted to stop for dinner there and then so I don’t have to come back out in the rain, but part of me really wants to just finish, get in, dump my pack and have a hot shower! So I keep heading down to the beach (up and over the railway station which confused me a bit!) and the restaurants etc peeter out. The beach is deserted, hardly surprising I suppose, but there is the official finish point, complete with sculpture representing the rising or setting sun (depending on whether you are starting or finishing). I found it amusing that on the signpost it says “Chepstow 182 miles” when every single bit of literature everywhere states that Offa’s Dyke path is 177 miles long, and even the halfway sign is 88.5 miles each way. Not sure where the extra 5 miles came from! Still, I know I’ve done more than 177 miles anyway by the time I add in all the diversions to accommodation etc, so who’s counting… 😉

Apparently it is tradition to finish the walk by taking your boots off and walking into the sea. With the rain and the tide being out I was tempted to skip that bit, but tradition is tradition so I headed down towards the waves, getting incredibly sandy in the process, and stripped off my boots and socks to have a quick (and cold!) paddle. Offa’s Dyke officially completed! Which also marks 500 miles of my journey complete – I can now officially start singing the Proclaimers’ song….!

The sculpture marking the end of the trail

Now both wet AND sandy I headed off to find my accommodation which thankfully was right on the sea front about 500m from the finish point. My lovely Airbnb host Anne quickly took all my wet gear and hung it up to dry then made me a cup of tea and fed me some biscuits, exactly what was needed! My plan was to shower and head out to find some food but as the rain showed no signs of relenting Anne and her friend Mike refused to let me go back out and instead very kindly made me some (delicious!) dinner from bits and pieces they had in the house. So sweet! They also made me a hot chocolate and we sat in front of their cosy wood burner sharing stories. Eventually I had to excuse myself so I could head upstairs and try to find accommodation for tomorrow night, as unfortunately it turned out the campsite I thought was in Holywell is actually nowhere near it! The search has been unsuccessful so far, so not quite sure yet where exactly I’ll be staying, but I’m sure I’ll find something…

Anyway, tomorrow is the start of leg 3, probably my least planned leg…who knows what it will bring!

August 7, 2017February 9, 2018

Day 34: Llandegla to Bodfari

Total miles: 18.8

Elevation gain: 3,258 ft

Time walking: 9:30am – 7:30pm

Miles to date: 490.6

Today was a big day! Big hills, big views, big smiles! (And big aches in my feet…!). After a bit of a soggy start (amazing how one short drizzle shower can make a tent so damp!) I got packed up and headed into the village to stop off at the wonderful Llandegla Community Shop and Cafe. This place is a little gem! Well stocked little shop with friendly staff and a cafe serving coffee, cakes etc and light breakfasts (bacon and egg bap, yuuum!). Always a good start to a day!

The first few miles were over farmland, heading towards the ridge that is the Clwydian Range – a narrow band of hills that stretches for 20 miles north to south from Prestatyn. I saw my first big black cloud of the day, thankfully it seemed to be passing me by to the north, so I stayed dry for now.

Once I reached the hills it was a steep climb up, but interestingly the path skirts most of the actual hilltops rather than go up over them. I wasn’t complaining! The views from the side of them were pretty spectacular anyway, out across the wide vale to the west, right across to Snowdonia (when the clouds permitted!).

Just as I neared the bottom of the first couple of hills I finally felt a few spots of rain and the waterproofs were straight on – this was definitely going to be more than a drizzle! I munched on the slice of barrabrith I had bought in the cafe while the rain pelted down, strangely content! Barrabrith finished, I headed on into the rain, dreaming of the waterproof gloves I’d ordered that would be with me next week.

The shower didn’t last too long and the wind, although chilly, dried me out fairly quickly. A mile and half later, as the path dropped to a main road between two big hills, I could see another cloud. This one was spectacularly angry looking, and it was headed right my way. I could see it already emptying part of its contents onto the valley below and as I already had my waterproofs on I just watched it coming closer. It was pretty amazing, seeing the weather sweep across the valley! Soon it hit – first the slow and steady pitter patter of big fat drops and then gradually getting heavier and heavier. And heavier! I paused under a bank of trees on the track that led towards the next hill, a big, exposed hill, grateful that I wasn’t already up there! The rain kept coming, and when I looked more closely I realised it was actually hail! A group of walkers joined me under the relative shelter of the trees and I felt sorry for them – they were in shorts, trainers and puffa jackets! As the track slowly turned into a little stream gushing down the hill, carrying twigs and even little pebbles, the thunder and lightning came. I thanked my lucky stars for a second time that I was not stuck on the hill!

It would be pretty cool, if it wasn’t headed straight for me!

Eventually the rain eased off and it looked like the thunder and lightning had abated so I headed on, and up the really steep sided Foel Fenli, a hill fort. The Kendal mint cake came out for this! It was very steep! And not the easiest path – slippery in places and little grip. Offa’s Dyke path skirts the hill just below the summit but I decided I’d climb right to the top. The views were stunning, although it was a bit unnecessary really given I’d be summiting a taller hill soon. Still, always love a good hill fort! The clouds coming across the valley looked like they might contain more lightning so I made a quick exit off the hill (as quickly as a steep slope permits!) and down to a car park with the most people I’d seen all day. Ah, of course, it’s Saturday! It still wasn’t hugely busy, I guess because not everybody is mad enough to venture out in a rainstorm…! The most exciting thing about this car park was a wooden caravan which turned out to be a little mobile cafe. Amazing! I dug around in my wallet for my last remaining change while chatting to the owner, and when I asked what I could get for the £2 I’d managed to find, the lovely lady said I could have whatever I wanted. I love her! I asked for a latte and she offered me a large one, bless her. I knew I’d probably regret it when walking across the exposed, toilet-less hillside, but I was so grateful I accepted her kindness.

I had been planning to rest my legs for a bit but as it started to drizzle again I kept going, up the gradually rising path the mile and a half towards Jubilee Tower on top of Moel Famau, the tallest hill around. I was amazed at how many people I saw who were wearing clothing completely inadequate for the weather! So many people didn’t have anything resembling a coat, which just seemed crazy given that it was a showery day (as forecasted). I wondered if they all thought I looked strange, plodding on up the hill in my full waterproofs…

I could tell that the view from the top would be amazing, as the views just walking up were incredible. The southern section of the Clwydian Range stretched out to the south, down in the vale below were little towns and villages and a patchwork of fields, and in the distance I could see Snowdon. Actually, I could see 3 very tall mountains, each a fair distance apart, and I didn’t know then exactly which one was Snowdon (the map at the top confirmed it was the furthest north of the three) but I figured it had to be one of them! Once I reached the top I could also see out to the other side, to Cheshire and my route after Offa’s, and north to Liverpool and the sea! I took a quick break to change my socks (boots very wet!) but it was chilly at the summit so I added my warm jacket to my layers, and didn’t stay too long. I could see the next few hills I had to tackle and it looked like I still had a long way to go, although I think it was ‘only’ about 6 miles.

Part of the view from the Jubilee Tower on Moel Famau

A short while further on the coffee (and all the water I’d been drinking) really didn’t want to wait until Bodfari. Now I’ve had a wee in plenty of hedges on this trip, but an exposed hillside in a popular area on a Saturday is not the ideal place to need a wee! But I was desperate so I headed off over the edge of the hill to a spot not visible from the path and just prayed nobody wandered over for a better look at the view! It was definitely the best view I’ve had from a loo before, hehe.

Feeling lighter, I ate my oatcakes on the go and jogged down a couple of the hills to make them go quicker. There were some very steep bits, sadly followed by equally steep bits going up the other side. One of these was up the side of Moel Arthur, another hillfort, this one on top of an apparently perfect cone-shaped hill. Splendid spot for a hill fort – these Iron Age folk chose their spots well! The path once again skirted just below the top and this time I stick to the path, my legs were feeling the mileage and the hills now. I’m glad I did though, as rounding the side I met a couple out for a walk who had both (separately) walked Land’s End to John O’Groats! It was great to meet people that have actually done it! They wished me well and I was really pleased to have met them. The next people I met were a family panting their way up the steep hill I was coming down…I’m not sure what they made of my cheery ‘hello’ as I jogged rather haphazardly down the slope past them!

One final hillfort for the day, Penycloddiau, and this time the path goes right over the top. A sign informs me it’s one of the largest hill forts in Wales and it is certainly impressive. The views don’t get boring and with the golden evening sun (no more rain, yay!) the hill is just beautiful. The heather is in full bloom at the moment and its purple flowers, against the blue sky, green grass and golden sunlight, is breathtaking. Snowdon and neighbouring mountains are finally making a star appearance and I have a view out towards Llandudno and the wind farms off the north Wales coastline. If I wasn’t getting hungry and due to meet Aurelie and the girls in Bodfari I think I could have stayed there for hours!

Last hill fort of the day – hot and tired but happy!

I was definitely getting hungry though and jelly babies were no longer cutting it. I needed proper food! It was pretty much all downhill from here so I started running down every relatively safe slope. Aeroplane noises may have been involved…! (Well, if you can’t let your inner child come out to play when running down a big hill, when can you?!). I also started singing “she’ll be coming down the mountain” with numerous variations. “She’ll be running down the mountain when she comes” and “she’ll be craving mashed potato when she comes” being the most memorable. I’d had a very bizarre playlist, if I added all the random songs I’ve been singing this trip! I was clearly in need of good food and rest. Or I was just high on fresh air!

The last couple of miles were pretty but I was impatient to get to Bodfari and see the girls, and I was so glad when I finally made it to the pub (The Dinorben Arms – highly recommend it!) to find that Aurelie had managed to get us a table for dinner. Big hugs all round, oh it was so so good to see her and her two girls! They had come up to North Wales for the weekend especially to see me and bring me supplies, and I was staying with them for the night. The girls were fascinated by my adventure and had written down lots of questions which they proceeded to interview me with. I felt famous!

The food was AMAZING! I had lamb shoulder with dauphinoise potatoes and greens and oh my goodness I was in food heaven! Rounded off with a banoffee waffle, it was a perfect end to a glorious day, and made the achey feet worth it. I have a feeling I’ll be hobbling a little in the morning, but it is a shorter day again so I’m not too worried!

Only one more day left of Offa’s Dyke, and tomorrow I’ll hit 500 miles – I can officially start singing the Proclaimers’ song!

August 4, 2017February 9, 2018

Day 33: Pontcysyllte to Llandegla

Total miles: 13.1

Elevation gain: 2,172 ft

Time walking: 2pm – 7:30pm

Miles to date: 471.8

Gosh, I loved today! I wasn’t sure how it was going to go at first, as I woke up feeling properly tired. I was very grateful to my Airbnb hosts – they told me there was no rush to leave and so I had a relaxed breakfast in the sun in the garden with their gorgeous dog Poppy and cat Treacle. The slow start helped, so although I didn’t leave the house until just after midday I finally felt my energy coming back. The sunny morning and promising forecast probably helped too!

Leaflets in my room advertised canal boat trips over the aqueduct for a modest £7.50 so after detouring to the post office to collect another stamp I headed back to the Trevor Basin in perfect time to grab a coffee to take on the next boat. It would delay me by another hour but it was a sunny day, I had a shorter walk, I was fascinated by the aqueduct and I figured there’s no point in walking the length of Great Britain if I don’t actually spend time seeing it along the way!

It was a great trip and fascinating to learn more about the aqueduct and how it was built. Apparently the stone pillars are held together with a mix of lime and ox blood and the water channel was lined with flannel soaked in sugar. Don’t quote me on any of the exact details, but the girl telling us the history definitely joked that it was reassuring to know that we were travelling over something held together by treacle…! King Jennifer proved popular today and he got lots of hellos from people we passed on the towpath. I also had another couple sponsor me which was sweet!

Canal trip over it was time to hit the path again so I waved goodbye to the sunny holiday scene by the canal and headed off towards the Llangollen escarpment, which I’d be following for 7 miles until Worlds End (and no, I’m not missing an apostrophe there, the place name doesn’t have one. Which slightly niggles me, grammar police that I am!).

The grammarless Worlds End…how many worlds are there, I wonder?

After a good crop of big juicy blackberries it was uphill through the Trevor Hall woods for a bit until it flattened out, leading to nice, easy and quick walking (save for where a fallen tree had blocked the path and some scrambling was called for!). As I cleared the woods I met up with a group of walkers from the local “University of the Third Age” and we paused together for a breather. They were doing a short stretch of Offa’s for the day so I joined them for a bit until they stopped for a longer break. The path joined a tiny road at this point which it followed for several miles, right around the escarpment, halfway up. For once I really didn’t mind following a road as this was small, open and made for easy walking, which given the STUNNING views which opened up all along the Llangollen valley to Castell Dinas Bran, I was quite happy about! I hadn’t realised quite how beautiful today’s walk was going to be. I mean, I shouldn’t be surprised by now as every bit of this trail has been stunning, but today really was fantastic. Castell Dinas Bran is a ruined castle perched on top of a tall, steep, conical hill and must have incredible views up and down the valley. Silhouetted against the sky it looked impressive even in its ruined state. Across the valley were huge, rolling hills, above me were craggy cliffs and scree-covered slopes and ahead of me was high moorland, where I was headed.

Eventually the path left the road and followed a narrow track on a steady incline, ever winding in and out with the line of the escarpment. The track was clear but the slopes were steep and I could almost have been walking in the alps. There is a semi-euphoric feel to heading up a narrow path that curls up and around the contours of the slope, disappearing in front of you where you can see masses of sky above and around, and nothing but more hills around you and the distant sound of the stream flowing along the valley floor. I felt so happy to be alive, and out doing this!

Eventually the path dropped down slightly, via a massive patch of wild raspberries, to meet the little road again at Worlds End. There isn’t actually anything at Worlds End other than a hairpin bend at the head of the valley, and a stream gushing downhill crossed by a ford and some stepping stones. It did feel satisfying though, to know I was right at the head of a deep valley which went on to join the main Llangollen valley, and the view as the road rose up on the other side was the best yet of the day. Not a building, road or other person in sight, just hills, trees, rocky crags, and a whole lot of sky!

A short steep climb took the road up onto open moorland, ah as if the day could get any better! The road continued to climb steadily and every now and then I’d pause to catch my breath and listen to the vast peace. It was so quiet up there! I could see back out to Snowdonia with the peak of either Cadr Idris or Snowdon (not sure which!) peeking out from the top. In front of me, as I crested the hill, I could see out to the massive estuary of the River Dee with Liverpool beyond. Over into England I could make out the faint outline of the Peak District, my destination in just over a week when I head there to start the Pennine Way.

The moor yielded up an exciting and bumper harvest of bilberries which are just heavenly! They taste like a cross between a blackcurrant and a blueberry and there were masses of them up there today. I ate so many I’m surprised I didn’t make myself sick, although I did tire my back somewhat from repeated bending down to pick them. I also managed to stain my hands a spectacular shade of purple, oops!

The last section of the day headed down through Llandegla Forest, a dense conifer plantation where the woods either side of the path are so dense and dark it looked like dusk had come early! It was a little bit eerie and I felt like I should be tiptoeing through as quietly as I could!

Tonight I am camping at the Llyn Rhys farm campsite which is pleasant and has views out to the hills. Sadly the road is quite busy here, which is a shock to the system after the quiet of the hills. There are also some very noisy flocks of sheep!

With my fuel gone (more coming tomorrow, yay!) I can’t make a cup of tea which is a shame, but thankfully the pub is just 100m away and it did some lovely food, and tomorrow I apparently pass the local community shop and cafe, so I’ll stop there for breakfast.

A long day tomorrow with lots of hills (and hillforts!) so going to try to make an early start. The rain is also supposed to return, so looks like my waterproofs will be back on the outside of my bag again (today they made it into the pack for the first time in nearly 2 weeks!).

Nearly the end of Offa’s Dyke, I can’t believe it! The end, in 2 days’ time, will also mark the 500 mile point where I can officially start singing the Proclaimers’ song…!

Happy weekend everyone xx