Finding strength in the wild

Recently I had the honour of being asked to contribute a short article about my experience to be published in the Ripples magazine. Great! But how on earth to summarise three and a half months into c.500 words?! Here’s what I came up with…

Finding strength in the wild

When I sent a message to a close friend telling her I was “thinking of doing something bonkers” I’m not sure I really believed I’d go through with it. After all, those big, crazy, dream-following ideas are the stuff of fairy tales, right? Big adventures are for Other People. Not professional young women with a promising career and a mortgage to pay…

It was too late though…the spark had been ignited and I don’t think it even took my friend’s reassuring “for you…no, that’s not bonkers” response to convince me to follow through with one of the hardest, and most incredible, challenges of my life. My plan: to walk, solo, from Land’s End to John O’Groats. An epic, three and a half month journey that would see me covering 1,400 miles of our beautiful country, on foot, carrying my life on my back.

The experience was profound. Right from taking the freeing decision to leave my job, through to the detailed research and planning necessary to make such an undertaking feasible, to the actual walk itself, it was, as cliché as it might sound, life changing. The full story warrants a book (which is on the horizon!) but one of the most common questions I get asked about my journey is “weren’t you scared, walking all that way on your own?!”

Yes and no! I think my mum was probably more scared than I was, but to be honest, she probably had a bit more time to worry about it than I did! I walk a lot, so being out and about in the woods and hills, exploring, finding my path, really doesn’t worry me – I feel more nervous walking through town at night than I do walking alone in the countryside! Yes, there were nights wild camping that were a little nerve-testing… I recall the eerie bellows of red deer echoing around the hills as a wild wind howled through dense, dark forest on the edge of Loch Lochy; the desolate stillness of the lonely, misty Rannoch Moor and the torrential streams cascading down the mountain just metres from my tent after a night of heavy rain; the long, sleepless night of gales, fearing my tent and I would be blown straight off the cliffs above the Stacks of Duncansby without a trace…and more run-ins with curious cattle than I care to remember. There were days I was so tired I just wanted to lie down and sleep, and days where I ran out of water. Days I was reduced to tears by pain and days where I wasn’t sure I’d make it. But was I ever truly scared?

No, not really.

There’s a strength to be found out in the wild; an empowering experience of self-sufficiency, resilience and connection that modern day life tends to soften out of us. It’s why I encourage everyone to get out in nature as often as they can. It awakens something incredibly primordial in us, a deep connection to who we really are. There’s a lot of power in that.

Would I do it all again? Oh yes! (Sorry mum)

Jen Le Marinel is the founder of WildFire Walks, a business born out of a passion for helping others and a belief in the power of nature to heal and inspire. Jen combines a transformational coaching approach with elements of the outdoors to help tired, stressed out individuals reclaim their happiness. You can find out more at www.wildfirewalks.com or read more about her incredible journey through her blog at https://jlemarinel-lejog.com .

Day 53: Rest Day

Lovely stay with the Barnett family. Feels strange to not be walking but the rest is welcome. Lie in, breakfast, planning session and blog updating, washing, stroll into town for lunch and to pick up some food items, bag-repacking, dinner, hot tub, early night. Over too quickly!

Day 32: Llanymynech to Pontcysyllte

Total miles: 19.9

Elevation gain: 3,362 ft

Time walking: 10am – 8pm

Miles to date: 458.7

Fourth longest day, second toughest in terms of total elevation gain and the muddiest by far! No wonder my feet and legs are aching now!

The weather wasn’t set to be great this morning but thankfully it wasn’t pouring with rain. Very blustery which I think kept the worst of the rain away and left me with drizzly showers rather than heavy downpours. I started off in a jumper for the first time this trip (yesterday was very muggy, today was pretty fresh with the wind!), although it soon came off once I’d warmed up climbing up to the Llanymynech Rocks nature reserve and former quarry. Walking around the skirts of the old quarry rock faces was very pretty, lots of dramatic cliffs and beautiful wild flowers, with old quarry relics dotted about like limekilns and brake drums. There were views back out across the Severn plain to the Breidden Hills and up to the Beacon Ring of a few days ago.

Relics of the limestone quarrying days
The former quarry is now a beautiful nature reserve

After crossing back into Wales the path headed around the edge of the cliffs and eventually dropped steeply down the western edge and despite only being a couple of miles in my legs were feeling it already. My knees were giving me a bit of pain on the steep downhill and I had a horrible feeling it was going to be a looong day! I tried to stay positive though and told myself it was just my body warming back up after my rest day!

At the bottom of the hill I made the first waterproofs-on stop, having stuck out the first drizzly shower but not trusting my luck with a second. Preoccupied with rearranging my jacket comfortably I missed a turning and ended up wandering quarter of a mile out of my way before realising that something wasn’t quite right. Sigh! When I got back to the right spot, 20m from where I’d put  my waterproofs on, I could have taken them off again, typically, but soldiered on for another half a mile before giving in halfway up the next hill!

The rain was constantly threatening all morning and I had several drizzle showers, but having already stopped three times in three miles I was risking getting grumpy at my slow progress so I opted just to get wet instead! It turned out to be the right decision as none of the showers really came to anything.

Up on the second hill, Moelydd, (summited with the assistance of jelly babies) there was a topograph naming all the hills I could see. Sadly I couldn’t actually see all that many today, but apparently Snowdon was only 44 miles away! It was very windy up there though, and I was semi-convinced I was actually going to get blown off the ridge!

Lots of things to see….if it wasn’t so misty!

Just outside the village of Trefonen (with another closed-at-lunchtime pub), 7 miles in, I stopped to rest my feet and have a protein shake, and I reflected on my attitude towards the 7 miles I’d walked. There was part of me that was impatient that I’d only covered 7 miles so far, and then another part reminded me that 7 miles is in itself a decent walk and the fact that I can walk 7 miles just like that (carrying a 20kg pack) is quite amazing! So I tried to stop berating myself for my slowness and tried to celebrate what I had achieved instead. Not always easy, and I do have to remind myself sometimes that I’m supposed to be enjoying the journey, not just the getting there!

Rejoining Offa’s Dyke itself for the first time today the path dropped down towards Candy Woods which rose up steeply on the other side. Every step down the hill made the next hill to climb look bigger and bigger! It was a pretty walk up through the woods though, although fairly dark because it’s quite conifer-heavy, and up to the old Oswestry Racecourse on top of the hill fort. The views hinted at by the 325m height of the fort were mainly obscured, either by trees or by the drizzle sweeping over that particular section of the English countryside, but you did get a sense that they might have been pretty good at some point in the past! Ruins of the former grandstand were small but interesting and with a bit of imagination I could imagine them racing horses up here in times gone by, before travel by train meant horses could be taken to larger racecourses in other parts of the country.

11 miles in at this point, my morale and energy are given a boost by a lovely patch of raspberries and a nice couple who donated some money and stopped to chat for a while. Turns out his parents lived in Castle Cary in Somerset (where I went to secondary school!), small world. They were really sweet and chatting to them put some spring back into my step. Shortly after meeting that couple I was singing the Hokey Cokey to myself (out loud…) when I suddenly hear a cheerful ‘hello’ from the hedge. I jump, and immediately pray that the smiling man sat on the bank didn’t hear my crazy singing! Turns out he is walking Offa’s Dyke in the opposite direction, only the third person I’ve crossed paths with in a week and a half! We chatted for a while until a) the rain started to come again and b) the bulls who had been quietly minding their own business suddenly decided to head our way, rather loudly and rapidly. I waved good bye to the fellow walker and am not ashamed to admit I hoped the bulls would follow him rather than me. Of course they didn’t. They came straight for me…. I made my way as quickly as I could to the edge of the field whilst trying to shoo them off as I went. Once over the safety of the fence I turned to watch them amazed (and mildly terrified) at how quickly and brusquely they approached. I shuddered. Cows!!

A pleasant downhill stretch along a pretty track, improved further by the consumption of a Cadbury’s Boost bar (“a boost of chocolate, caramel and biscuit energy”! Haven’t had one in years!) led down to Craignant, with the knees seeing to have warmed up now, phew, and once again it’s straight back up the other side. The drizzle starts again, slightly heavier this time, but having avoided the waterproofs since I removed them the first time I carried on, figuring a little rain wouldn’t hurt. After about 10 minutes and halfway across an open field, the rain growing steadily heavier, I started to question the wisdom of my oh-sod-the-rain attitude. When I reached some shelter under the trees and passed a group also walking Offa’s Dyke, kitted out head to toe in soggy waterproofs, I finally admitted that this rain shower was less of the short-and-sharp variety and more of the settling-in-for-the-afternoon variety. With a sigh I donned my waterproofs. The rain persisted for a while and even though it didn’t prove to be “in” for the rest of the day I was thoroughly glad of my waterproofs when I came across some sections of firstly knee-height then shoulder-height undergrowth along the path, which would have had me soaked through in seconds!

Fantastic sections of the dyke

The path followed the dyke steeply downhill with views out to Chirk, with Chirk Castle sitting grandly atop the hill opposite, and the flat country beyond. The ‘official’ end of today’s section is at the bottom of the hill, by Castle Mill, but I’m pressing on to where I was able to find accommodation, all the way in Cefn-mawr the other side of the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, halfway through the next section! This meant I had the steep (but not quite as big as the earlier hills) climb up onto the same hill where Chirk Castle sits (which meant I got good views of the back of the castle too!), but it was the last biggie of the day and the views from the top were far-reaching. I’m not exactly sure which part of the country I was looking at – my little Offa’s Dyke OS map book only gives small strips of map and I’m not always very good at looking at a bigger map to find where in the country I am!

Chirk castle

This section was easy walking along country roads and as it was starting to get a little late I decided to make a tiny shortcut and head straight down to the canal rather than do the strange little zigzag the official route takes. I soon realised why the official route goes the way it does – my shortcut took me to the wrong side – the towpath-less side – of the canal! Durrrr!! So I had to walk along the main road for a bit, fearing I’d missed the chance of walking over the aqueduct and would have to take the road route (which involved even more descent and ascent!). Thankfully the road meets the canal briefly and from there the towpath runs on both sides of the canal for a stretch. Phew! I happily walked along and soon I saw the aqueduct in front of me, narrow and very very tall, spanning the valley. A canal boat was coming across which was pretty awesome to see, then it was my turn to cross. Pretty nerve wracking, actually! I wouldn’t want to be up there with vertigo or in the wind! The views were great, over to the railway viaduct, back to the old road bridge and down to the fast flowing River Dee. I held onto the railing, even then I kept feeling like I might fall into the canal! The trickiest bit was passing two women and their dogs – someone has to let go to let the other pass!

The Pontcysyllte Acqueduct
Beautiful engineering
Don’t look down!

Making it safely over the aqueduct into Trevor Basin it was only a short walk to my Airbnb for the night. Thank goodness, as my feet are seriously aching now! I am greeted warmly by my hosts with tea and Welsh cakes, and quickly invited to have a glass of wine after my shower. Amazing!

I am now very tired and somehow I don’t think sleeping will be an issue tonight! I should really do some stretching and massaging my feet but I think I’m going to just sleep and I’ll spend some time doing it in the morning. The good news is that the extra few miles today means for a few miles less tomorrow so I don’t need to be in a rush to leave, yay!

Day 19: Wells to Chew Stoke

Total miles: 15.5

Elevation gain: 2,008ft

Miles to date: 276.6

Time walking: 10am – 5:30pm

Wet!! I can’t complain, given my luck with the weather to date, and actually I won’t anyway because I quite like the rain! Not that I want it every day mind you, but it does give everything a rather atmospheric air. The main downside is walking in waterproofs – hot, sticky and rustly! Oh, and cows like to chase things in bright red….!

It looked like rain all day so I figured I’d start as it meant to go on and go for full waterproofs from the off. Halfway up the big hill out of Wells, with no sign of imminent rain I changed my mind and gratefully stripped off the jacket. It was a bit of stop and start morning. Stopping for waterproofs on or off, stopping for a stone in my boot (which, incidentally, disappeared the moment I took my boot off before reappearing the second I started walking again), stopping for a loo break and coffee (Wookey Hole! I didn’t visit the caves sadly – you can’t buy a ticket for just the caves 🙁 ), stopping for several breathers up the very steep hill out of Wookey up onto the Mendips and, finally, stopping to admire the views from the top!

Glastonbury Tor looked quite small from up here, and rather far away. It was weird to think I was there less than 24 hours ago. It’s quite amazing how much distance one can cover on foot. Barely anything compared to in a car, but once you slow down to walking pace for a while, and look back at the hills and landmarks you’ve come from, distance takes on a different meaning!

Glastonbury Tor under a moody sky

Across the top of the Mendip hills the rain finally started to come, albeit in fits and bursts. It was quite satisfying for it to finally start, as walking in waterproofs when it is not raining seems like an unnecessary hardship. As I already said, I also like the rain. There’s something about being out in it, especially when you’re up high (and knowing you’re safe), while everyone else is tucked away indoors, that is incredibly liberating! There may have been a few “whoops” into the wind and the rain today…!

Loved this sign!

Passed through a fair few fields of cows today, all resulting in different reactions from said creatures. The only one that was somewhat nerve wracking was the field of young bulls who saw me from across the field and came over fairly rapidly to have a look. A few of them skittered as I waved my arms and whooped at them, but a couple were quite insistent and headed straight for me, only stopping at the last moment.  Of course, the worst thing you can do with cows is run away – they’ll only chase you – so every couple of steps I had to turn and wave my arms at them again. Thankfully they didn’t come too close, but I was definitely very firmly escorted out of that field!

After that field I was following the Monarch’s Way for a while (said to be the route that King Charles (I or II, not sure) fled from his enemies). It takes quite a wiggly route and he seemed to favour hills – I’m not sure whether for the views or for drier ground. Either way it makes for some undulating walking and, thankfully, is graced by the associated views, at this point of Chew Lake stretching out below (fading into the rain). It was a satisfying view, due in part because my stop for the night was at the other end of that lake, so my target was in sight!

Chew Lake through the rain

My route doesn’t take me the quickest way but it does avoid the main road, and as the rain has started in earnest – proper, constant rain – I determined to make speedy progress. I lost my favourite hat on the way, but I couldn’t face retracing my steps up the hill so I guess it’s farewell to that one 🙁

Not much to report for the last few miles other than lots of rain and having to squeeze into a hedge to let a massive camper van past, oh and a hare and a deer! My feet were starting to ache a fair bit as I hadn’t taken a proper break for a while because of the rain and my feet were a little damp – no matter how good the boots, wet grass always gets through eventually! I was very glad to make it down into Chew Stoke and to Kim and Ann-See’s, at the reasonable hour of 5:30pm, arriving dripping wet but still smiling. Eunice (my housemate, dear friend and healing worker of magic) is coming down tonight too, so I get a big hug and some more sports massage and rock taping, yay!

Tomorrow I walk to Bristol and am excited to cross the Clifton Suspension Bridge. I just hope it isn’t too windy and it’s a little drier!

Then on Sunday I cross over the Severn Bridge (who’s joining me?!) for my fourth county, second country, second leg AND the 300 mile mark! Wow!

xx

Day 19 route

Day 11: Launceston to Nodden Gate

Total miles: 18.8

Elevation gain: 2,430 ft

Time walking: 10:15am – 7:30pm

Miles walked to date: 145.1

Today was the second longest day so far in terms of distance, and close third in terms of ascent, so it was a pretty tough day relative to the rest of the days so far. It was also HOT! I’d broken into a sweat within about 5 minutes (and not just because of the hill I had to climb to get up into Launceston town centre!), and while the morning was hot and sunny, the afternoon turned into hot and muggy.

Upon waking though it was misty, the town and castle shrouded in cloud to the extent that I wouldn’t have known they were there, if I didn’t know they were there! After a thoroughly satisfying full English breakfast (I highly recommend Rose Cottage B&B if you happen to be staying in Launceston), I had the exciting prospect of visiting the castle to entice me up the hill. Despite having a long day ahead of me I couldn’t resist visiting the castle, partly because of the fact I love history, partly because of the rumoured fantastic views and partly because I figure I ought to make the most of travelling the country to actually see the places I visit! The kind lady at the desk looked after my bag while, free from my load, I sprang up the steps to the top (I can tell I’m getting fitter!) to admire the views. Stunning! I could see back to Bodmin Moor and forward towards Dartmoor, and everything in between. Definitely worth taking the time to visit!

With Launceston having grown on me considerably, it was time to pick up the Two Castles Trail which would take me pretty much all the way to my destination for the day, Nodden Gate near Bridestowe, on the edge of Dartmoor. The trail links the castles of Launceston and Okehampton but I haven’t yet discovered why the trail takes the exact route it does – it is rather loopy in places and despite passing through a few villages doesn’t seem to have much of particular interest en route. Still, it was a clearly way marked route which is very pleasant, and it took me into my second county of the trip – Devon! Sadly the ‘welcome to Devon’ sign was a little way up a busy road so I couldn’t get a selfie, but it was satisfying to know I’d finally cleared Cornwall!

After a few miles I came across a couple who were walking the trail who had spotted me earlier in Launceston. I fell into step beside them and it turns out they are considering walking LEJOG themselves at some point, so we had plenty to chat about! All too soon we can across Lifton farm shop and restaurant which was where I was planning to break, so we swapped emails and said farewell.

After stocking up on a few supplies in the shop and chatting with some very friendly staff I ordered myself a cream tea – the first I’ve managed to have! After trying to remember which way around (cream then jam or jam then cream) was the Devon way to do it, I sat on the fence and did one scone of each. Managed to stuff myself silly by polishing off both scones and a whole pot of cream and jam and promptly felt rather sick! Still, that was a fair few calories taken on board…

The next few miles were a mixture of roads and footpaths with little to comment on, except that suddenly a song came into my head that I sang once as a child, called “Look to the Rainbow”. I had the urge to sing it so I looked up the lyrics and off I went, singing over the fields as I walked. I hope nobody was close enough to hear me! It is a lovely song though and the words were very fitting:

On the day I was born, said my father, said he,
I’ve an elegant legacy waiting for ye.
‘Tis a rhyme for your lips
And a song for your heart
To sing it whenever the world falls apart.

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

‘Twas a sumptuous gift to bequeath to a child,
Oh the lure of that song kept me feet running wild.
For you never grow old,
And you never stand still,
With whip-poor-wills singing beyond the next hill

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

So I bundled my heart
And I roamed the world free.
To the east with the lark,
To the west with the sea.
And I searched all the earth
And I scanned all the skies,
But found it at last in my own true love’s eyes.

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

Follow the fellow,
Follow the fellow,
Follow the fellow,
Who follows a dream.

As I came into the little village of Stowford I came across my new friends again and we walked the next few miles together. I realised how lovely it was to have company for a while, and although they weren’t walking as far as me, it was nice to share the journey for a bit. We reached their stop for the night around 4:30pm, and I don’t think they envied me my remaining hours!

My feet were starting to ache by this point, around mile 13. I think it was a combination of several days of road walking and having hot sticky feet, and I started to get a little worried that this was the beginning of the pain. With fortuitous timing the path suddenly leaves the road and heads up a track up the hill. That felt like a loooong hill! it wasn’t the last hill of the day but it was certainly the biggest, and I was very glad when I got to the top and was rewarded with beautiful views back the way I had come, with Bodmin Moor silhouetted against the skyline. Dartmoor, which had remained curiously hidden for all but the start of the day, was yet to show its face.

At the top of the hill I turned a gate too soon and ended up in a corner of a field with the road I was aiming for on the other side of a big impenetrable hedge. And then the first hint of the shakes came, the warning sign that I had not eaten enough today. Suddenly my cream tea felt like a very long time ago! Being hungry or being off-track is bad enough, being hungry AND off track is not pleasant! Thankfully I had my Kendal mint cake to hand and that stuff is amazing! It provided a real boost just when I needed it!

I had half a mile to go before my planned stop to rest my feet and grab some food so I soldiered on, powered by minty sugary goodness. The path led through a rather surreal wood. One side of the path was old fir forest, dry and dead beneath, whilst the other side was young, lush and green. I felt like I was waking through a fairy tale, where if I stepped to the left I’d wither and harden, whereas if I kept to the right I’d be granted eternal youth and beauty. I stuck mainly to the right, just in case…

After making it out of the forest intact Dartmoor finally chose to show itself. What had been a hazy dream on the horizon was now a solid – and somewhat formidable – reality. I stopped and took my boots off watching the weather change over the moors. Thankfully today remained dry despite a few raindrops trying to squeeze their way out!

After an assessment of the map I decided to cut off a small loop of the trail route to enable me to get to the campsite in decent time and to save my feet as much as I could. It meant cutting out a hill fort (if you’ve been reading this you’ll know how I love a good hill fort, so for me to turn one down gives you an idea of how tired I was feeling), but also a mile of the route.

The last couple of miles were tough and my feet were aching the most they have so far this trip. When I saw my pub at the end of a beautiful cathedral-like tunnel of beech trees I could have whooped for joy, as I was tired and hungry! But first things first, the tent goes up, and only then it’s time to get food.

I was camping at the site behind the Fox and Hounds pub between Bridestowe and Lydford and it’s a really friendly pub. On hearing what I was doing the landlord promptly upgraded my small glass of wine to a big one “for having the balls to do that journey” and gave me some money for sponsorship. A woman, her daughter and her daughter’s boyfriend overheard our conversation and then we got chatting. What a lovely night that turned into! I love it when you get chatting to people you have so much in common with. It’s crazy, not only do they know the tiny village I grew up in but they lived in a small town about 5 miles down the road! It is a small world indeed! We chatted all evening and then they gave me a big hug as they left. Love hugs!

So after a very nice evening and a big glass of wine I am really struggling to keep my eyes open  long enough to write this, but I know if I don’t write it now it will never get written! I have a feeling I am going to sleep very well tonight, and the excellent news is that the pub serves breakfast in the morning!

So on that note, some beauty sleep required!

Day 10: Altarnun to Launceston

Total miles: 11

Elevation gain: 848ft

Time walking: 12pm – 5:30pm

Miles walked to date: 126.3

Two days cannot be more different! Yesterday was wet and soggy, today was hot and sticky! I can’t believe the difference, but I am incredibly grateful for it. Overnight there was more rain and some strong winds – it felt like my tent was going to blow away at some points – but at some point the rain stopped and things started to dry out. It didn’t take long for the sun to appear, and in spite of managing to pitch my tent in the only patch of shade in the entire field, I quickly pulled all of my damp gear out into the sun to dry off while I had a coffee in the pub compliments of the landlord. Thankfully I didn’t have far to go today so I could let stuff get properly dry, and the sun was strong enough that it didn’t take too long. Today’s breakfast was boiled eggs, which was very exciting – I bought the eggs from a farm yesterday, and boiled them in my stove! Simple things…!

How did I manage to find the one bit of shade in the field?!
Simple pleasures!

Today’s route took me along a mixture of country lanes and footpaths. At points during the first part of the walk I had glimpses back towards Bodmin Moor – looking gentle, appealing and somewhat taunting in the sunshine! Early on in the day my walk took me down through a lovely old wood on a steep slope down to a pretty little river, then up again to the other side into a tiny hamlet called Laneast, and I was thrilled that the farmers in this area provide very clear signage for footpaths crossing their farms. It was some beautiful farmland with a tantalising view over to Dartmoor, my destination for tomorrow, and I would have lingered longer but for a buzzard crying out his displeasure at my presence. Having been dive-bombed by a territorial buzzard in the past I was in no hurry to repeat the experience, they are quite intimidating creatures when they are whistling past your head only inches away! He was calling out and circling far too close for my liking so I hurried down into the trees and out of his way as quickly as I could!

Pretty river and woodland
Gorgeous farmland walking with Bodmin Moor in the distance

The next section of farmland was covered without any further encounters of the animal kind, save for a fox I spotted ducking behind a gate as I entered a field and a few bunnies scattering in front of me. I did see an unusual crop growing in some fields I passed, I think it might have been sugar cane!

I passed through another tiny hamlet called Gospenheale which I realised this evening is mentioned in the end to end book that a lot of walkers follow (I’m not, I haven’t even read it, for some reason!), and it was mentioned by Mark Moxon, the guy whose blog gave me the inspiration to do this walk myself. I realised that this was the place where a friendly farmer had invited him in for a cup of tea and a slice of cake on a rainy day when he was walking a similar route to me. It’s funny, to imagine that he walked that same road, with weather similar to that which I experienced yesterday. No friendly farmer for me though, but I did see a man driving a quad bike with his collie by his side. That collie sure knows how to travel in style!

A Cornish traffic jam…

After a good few miles of road I decided to take to an appealing looking footpath for a slight detour to take in a hill fort. Alas, other than some very friendly cows and a steep hill, there wasn’t really much to see. Still, it provided a useful off-road opportunity to take the boots off and swap out of my waterproof socks which had done their job but were now making my feet sweat.

A few more fields with reasonably well signposted paths and good margins between crops and hedge (thank you farmers!) took me to Tregadillet and on towards Launceston, my stop for the evening. Not far past the ‘Welcome to Launceston’ sign (pause for obligatory signpost selfie (it’s a lejog thing..!)), I find a gateway with a view! Launceston suddenly rolls out below me and the famous Launceston Castle (a Norman castle right on top of the hill) is right in front of me, with the heights of Dartmoor on the horizon providing an enticing backdrop.

Obligatory signpost selfie
Launceston Castle in front of Dartmoor on the horizon

For some unknown reason I decide it would be fun to jog down the steep hill into the town (crazy, much?) and I enter the town by the beautiful St. Thomas’s Bridge, a very old pedestrian bridge that used to take the monks to the priory across the river.

St. Thomas’s Bridge

I was a bit dubious about Launceston as Mr Moxon had been somewhat scathing about it, and I have to admit the first few people I came across didn’t do much to prove him otherwise! However, my b&b is charming and I have a beautiful view of the castle and town from my room. Reading a little more about the town makes me want to explore a little before I leave tomorrow, and the White Hart Inn just down the road served an amazing rib eye steak, so I don’t really have any reason to agree with my predecessor currently!

A rather more civilised end to the day today!

So walking wise, today has been fine. One of those days which isn’t outstandingly amazing, but is perfectly agreeable. What was a little more challenging today was realising how difficult it can be to organise the rest of life when you are not there to make things happen! I found out this week that I was finally able to get my cats back (long story, if you don’t know it), but of course currently I can’t actually pick them up or look after them, which is heartbreaking and frustrating! Thankfully, today also showed what AMAZING friends I have, and after putting out a plea for help on Facebook I ended up with numerous offers of help and support. I am genuinely overwhelmed at people’s willingness and desire to help, and it means so so much to me. It actually brings tears to my eyes to know how much my friends have got my back and want to see me succeed. I know some of you will be reading this, so thank you, thank you, thank you, and you know I’d do the same for you xxx

So after a slight wobble I can now relax and focus on my walk again, and continue to raise as much publicity as I can to raise as much money as I can for some truly wonderful causes!

Tomorrow I head towards Bridestowe on the northeastern edge of Dartmoor, following the Two Castles Trail. It’s a longer day tomorrow, 17 miles and I think a bit more elevation, and given that I want to take in Launceston Castle before I head off it will be an earlyish start! At least I’m being cooked breakfast in the morning 🙂

Oh, and tomorrow morning I cross into Devon! I can’t believe I’m 10 days in, one tenth of my journey complete, and I’m STILL in Cornwall!

Night night xx

Day 10 route

Day 8: Ruthernbridge to South Penquite Farm

Total miles: 11.8

Elevation gain: 926 ft

Time walking: 10:30am – 3:30pm

Miles walked to date: 99.6

Whoop, nearly 100 miles completed! It feels like I’m actually making a little bit of progress on the mighty map!

A change of scenery for KJ!

Today was a fairly straightforward day as for the majority of it I was following the Camel Trail, an old railway line that runs down from Padstow to Bodmin, then up to Camelford (I think). It’s easy walking, although the first bit I walked (Grogley Halt to near Bodmin) wasn’t particularly interesting other than the old station platforms and an in-use bit of railway where a steam train runs into Bodmin. Sadly I wasn’t there at the same time as the steam train, but I did have a nice chat to the train guard who said I must be bl***y bonkers…! There was a nice-looking tea shop that I’m now wishing I’d stopped at for a cream tea – I didn’t because I’d only been walking for an hour, but there wasn’t anything else until I got to Blisland, a little village near where I’m staying tonight. The benefit of hindsight!

The Camel Trail

It was nice to have an easy introduction to the second week of walking as my bag is now heavier again following a supply drop! I need to make sure I actually eat the food I’ve been brought, I’m not getting through it as quickly as I thought which probably means I’m not eating enough calories… Another benefit of walking along a nice cycle trail is all the friendly cyclists! Lots called out to wish me luck, and one lovely couple, on passing me for the third time, stopped to chat and ask about the charities I’m supporting, and they gave me £10! People are so lovely!

The second part of the Camel Trail was slightly narrower (but still easy for cyclists) and more interesting. It ran through pretty woods and along lovely sections of the River Camel. I stopped and ate lunch by the river and it was very peaceful, but it soon got a little chilly so I decided to push on.

The last few miles were all uphill, first along little roads then out onto the foothills of Bodmin Moor. Now we’re talking! I love the moors. I’ve never been to Bodmin Moor before so it’s a section I’m really excited about, but sadly it looks like the weather is not going to be kind tomorrow and I may have to skirt the edge of the moor rather than head over it. I am very grateful for all the good weather I’ve had to date and the good weather that is supposed to be ahead, but I do wish the one day of rain forecasted wouldn’t be the day I want to cross the moor! Ah well, que sera, sera!

From where I was walking I could see across to some of the high tors of the moor and they look so inviting! Desolate and bleak – perfect!   I’m sure I’ll have plenty of desolate and bleak later on in this trip – Offa’s Dyke, the Pennine Way and parts of Scotland will deliver there – but it’s exciting to see it here as somehow it makes this trip feel more real. I feel like I’ve had it easy so far!

Horses on the hill

I soon reach the sign for South Penquite Farm where I am staying tonight, and it’s a beautiful spot. It is a lovely campsite here, it somehow combines having everything you need with still having an air of wildness about it. I have a feeling I’ll come back here!

My stop for the night

Tent goes up like a dream (love this tent!) and the stove comes out for its first proper use of the trip. Some of the farm animals come to say hello – so far I’ve had visits from a flock of turkeys, a cat, two hens and a sheep dog!

Farm Friends!

Dinner was a freeze-dried pasta bolognaise and it tasted DIVINE! Food always tastes better when cooked and eaten outdoors, especially after a good hike!

Tonight’s gourmet dining!

It keeps spitting with rain so I’ve taken shelter inside my tent and it’s quite cosy. A family came past earlier and invited me for marshmallows later which is very tempting, if I’m still awake! I want to make an early start tomorrow to put the tent down before the rain arrives, so it’s probably an early night too! It’s evenings like this where I wish I’d brought a book. I have audiobooks but they aren’t quite the same. Maybe my next supply drop will need to include a book!

Well if you’re reading this before Tuesday please pray for a dry day for me tomorrow, otherwise tomorrow’s blog might be slightly soggier reading… 😉

Lots of love xx

 

Day 8 route

 

Progress! Nearly 100 miles to date 🙂

Day 7: Rest day

First rest day! It felt quite strange to be having a rest day already as I’m just getting into the rhythm of walking and my body appears to be holding up remarkably well, but a) I know it’s sensible and b) it means I get to spend a day with my dad 🙂

After a delicious full English (thanks dad!), the first of this trip, and another leisurely start to the day, we went for a drive about around the gorgeous country lanes around here. I really wouldn’t want to be driving anything big down here, there’s barely room for one car between the hedge-bank-walls let alone for two to pass! They are very pretty though. It didn’t take me long to fall asleep in the car (sorry dad!), my body is clearly making the most of the rest day!

We headed to Padstow for a lovely afternoon of coffee, Cornish pasties (my first this trip!) a ferry trip across the estuary and an ice cream (also Cornish, of course!). A brass band was playing by the harbour so we stopped to listen for a while. The sun even came out for a bit!

Yuuuuum!

Having eaten dad out of nearly all his food we went to the nearest pub for dinner (a 20 minute drive, I’d really managed to find a spot in the middle of nowhere!) and I figured it would be criminal not to have fish given how close we were to the coast!

Challenged dad to a game of pool and lost twice, although not embarrassingly, I’m pleased to report! Then back to the caravan for an early night, ready for the next week for walking tomorrow!

Day 6: Tregonetha to Ruthernbridge

Total miles: 5.5

Elevation gain: 288 ft

Time walking: 12pm – 2pm

Miles walked to date: 87.8

Ahhh, a delightfully short and gentle stroll today! The mileage I walk each day is usually dependent on where my accommodation is and whilst yesterday was a longer day it meant today was blissfully short. In turn that meant I had a nice leisurely morning chatting with Sharon my Airbnb host and the other guests over breakfast without needing to rush off.

Sharon joined me for the first couple of miles of my walk which was really lovely and I was impressed by her nettle-bashing skills!

Sharon, my lovely Airbnb host, joined me for a few miles!

The last few miles were along pleasant country lanes and although the sun was out it wasn’t quite as hot as previous days which was a welcome relief!

It wasn’t long before I reached the beautiful little campsite where dad is staying with his caravan and where I’ll be joining him for the next two nights. A rest afternoon and a rest day tomorrow, what a treat!

We’ve arrived!

The site is lovely, very peaceful and surrounded by trees, with a little stream nearby providing lulling background music. It is also a chance to wash and dry some of my clothes before my stint of camping next week! In the laundry area, not the stream. I haven’t quite gone wild just yet…! 😉

It feels quite strange to be writing this blog before 11pm at night. I’m looking forward to an early night tonight! But first, dinner time. Tonight it’s a BBQ, very exciting! I’m starving!

Much love xx

Today’s route. Short but sweet!