Day 16: Taunton to Langport

Total miles: 13.1

Elevation gain: 384 ft

Time walking: 11am – 5pm

Miles to date: 234.6

And so, the aches and pains that I’ve been expecting to hit at some point have finally struck! I was expecting them earlier, so I suppose I should be thankful that I’ve managed to get a few miles more under my belt before they came, but even being prepared for them it’s still a bummer when they hit!

I woke up feeling surprisingly good after yesterday’s mammoth day, and walking around the house my feet and legs didn’t feel too bad. Even after getting the bus back to where I left off last night and starting the walk knowing I had a few extra miles to cover than originally planned, my spirits were high and it was a beautiful, if hot, morning.

Taunton looks like a nice town and it has the river running right through it. Even though I’m a Somerset lass I think I’ve only actually been to Taunton once, and the brief glimpse I had made me think I should come and check it out properly!

My route took me along the Taunton and Bridgwater Canal for the first few miles and once I’d negotiated a new housing estate which wasn’t on the map and found my way to the right side of the canal it was easy going. However, it only took a couple of miles until my legs started to tire, yesterday’s marathon making itself felt. I decided to use my poles, which I usually save for ups and downs, to take a bit of weight from my hips and tried to walk on the grassy verge where possible to save my feet. Oh but it was muggy! Sweat was dripping off me and I started to worry I wouldn’t have enough water. I tried not to stop too much as every time I stopped my feet really began to throb, so I tried to power on for a couple of miles then stop for a 5-10 minute rest, and this seemed to work fairly well, even though I hobbled like crazy every time I started again! I also had the prospect of seeing my nephew at my brother’s house if I got there by about 5, which kept me focused, otherwise I think it might have taken me a lot longer!

After a few miles on the canal I came off and joined the River Parrett, which winds its way imperceptibly slowly through the Somerset levels (it’s mostly indistinguishable from the hundreds of drainage channels, with the only obvious differences being that it is a bit wider, has bigger banks and winds about a bit!). The walking is a bit same-y as it is flat, and it’s just a series of banks and gates which become quite irritating when your feet hurt! But the wildflowers were pretty (I tried not to get too frustrated when the footpath was overgrown…kept telling myself it was better for the wildlife!) and I saw some more swans, a couple of herons with their slow honking flight and even disturbed a buzzard in the grass only a few feet in front of me. The path alternated between nice short grass and long and overgrown and it felt surprisingly tiring, so much so that I had to take a break and put my feet up for a bit. I lay on my back with my feet over my bag and it felt good!

The River Parrett
A short rest to put my feet up!

A little further on and I came to my least favourite part, where the footpath disappeared into a long patch of stinging nettles. I looked ahead, dismayed. The road I was aiming for was tantalisingly close but seemed like miles when blockaded by 100m of knee-high nettles. I’d already been stung a few times as I was too tired to avoid the odd nettle, but this was almost despair-inducing! I took a deep breath and got busy with my hiking poles-come-nettle-bashers and made slow but steady progress. I noticed a woman walking on the other side of the river on lovely short grass, looking at me a bit strangely, and as she got closer she told me, in a somewhat confused voice, that I couldn’t get through to the road that way. But the path goes to the road, I said. Yes, she replied, but it goes around the other side of the property! I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. Relieved I didn’t have to fight my way through the rest of the nettles, but frustrated that I’d already wasted energy in return for plenty of stings.

A rather morale-sapping sight!

Still, I made it to the road and the footpath the other side was much better. I was headed towards my only hill of the day, up to Moredon which looked to be some sort of former stately estate and farm or something. The hill wasn’t a big one, relative to hills of earlier days, but it was a bit of a shock to the system! Thankfully as I walked along the ridge the climb rewarded me with super views of the Somerset Levels and it was nice to have some elevation and views after a day and a half of flat walking. I was aiming for a promising-looking “V” marked on my map near Stoke-St-Gregory which indicates a visitors’ centre – I was hoping they’d have cold drinks, toilets and an opportunity to refill my near-empty water bottle. I just hoped they were also open! It turned out I was headed for the Willows and Wetlands centre, which is a lovely little spot and ticked all of my boxes. I had a lovely pink lemonade and took my boots off, part of me wanting to put my head on the table and fall asleep! I looked at the map and estimated I had another 6 or so miles to go and judging by the current time and the state of my feet I wouldn’t make it to Langport before 6, which was a shame. But I chatted to my brother and we came up with a plan. I’d walk another 2-3 miles which would take me to 5pm and he’d come and pick me up, then drop me back tomorrow to finish off the last 3-4 miles without my pack. Part of me was tempted to finish it all today so I didn’t need to walk at all tomorrow but the prospect of getting in earlier and having a leisurely, packless walk tomorrow was very appealing, so that’s what we did. I’m really glad too, as just before I reached the designated pick up point my left buttock decided to cramp horribly and I wasn’t sure if I’d have been able to walk the last few miles. I was disappointed not to finish the day as planned but I know I need to look after my body as best I can, I have a fair few miles to go!

It was great to have a whole evening to rest up. I spent a while lying on the floor with my legs elevated up against the wall, then had a lovely soak in the bath and was stuffed full of homemade curry and rice (and wine!). I even watched some trashy TV! I am so pleased I have a rest day tomorrow, and am going to look very carefully at my dates to make sure I don’t leave it so long til the next one!

Route day 16

Day 15: Tiverton to Taunton

Total miles: 26.7

Elevation gain: 1,104 ft

Time walking: 10am – 9:30pm

Miles walked to date: 221.5

Tough day! It was always going to be one of the longest days mileage-wise but when your bag feels heavy and your feet hurt less than a mile after you start you know you’re in for a long one! I’m not exactly sure why I thought it would be a good idea to try to do 24+ miles with an 20kg pack in one day.  I think it was just the way the accommodation and dates worked out and I thought I’d just go with it. But I really wouldn’t recommend it!!

The day started off very well with a lovely breakfast with Maureen my host, who packed me off with sandwiches and homemade quiche to fuel me up for the day. (Maureen makes the most amazing quiches!). I was also super lucky to be there just as a duck who had been nesting for a few weeks finally hatched her ducklings! There were two cute and fuzzy duckling heads peeking out from underneath their mum, such an adorable start to my day!

A 1.5 mile walk along the edge of town brought me up to the start of the Grand Western Canal, which I was surprised to find is up above the town, i.e. at a higher elevation. It feels quite strange to be standing next to water looking down across a town! Sadly on Mondays the horse-drawn barge doesn’t run so I didn’t get to see that in action but the canal was a lovely route to walk. It was good to have some nice flat, even ground to walk along, and some nice shady bits as it was another warm day, and I made good progress for the first 6 miles. This was time for a mini celebration as I just hit the 200 mile mark, which feels pretty amazing!

200 mile happy face!

Along the way I saw a woman with a prosthetic leg (from just below her hip) walking her dog, and although she looked fit and strong it made me thankful for my two working legs. Throughout the day, whenever my feet hurt, I kept reminding myself to be grateful that I had feet to get blisters on!

At Halberton, after a quick stop off at the farm shop to use their loo, I met up with Susan and her 6 month old daughter Zoe – I think most probably my youngest guest walker of the trip! I hadn’t seen Susan since university so it was great to catch up over the few miles we walked together. Three days in a row now I’ve had company for some or all of the day which has been great!

At 10 miles I stopped for my first proper break and although it was fairly early in the day considering I was less than halfway I took my boots off while I ate the quiche (very grateful for that quiche!), as my feet were starting to throb already. I’d put my first blister plaster on and although the blister was getting bigger I think the plaster helped. I decided to put one on my little toe too, given that I still had so far to walk. It took a while to persuade myself to get going again after the rest, and for the first time on the journey I felt properly tired. My feet and hips hurt as I hobbled for a few hundred metres while I got back into my stride, but then they eased back into it again feeling better for the break and refuel.

The serene and pretty Great Western Canal

After a while walking alongside the canal did get a bit monotonous but it was pretty and I kept reminding myself to take it all in. I passed through fertile farmland growing all sorts of crops and it was fascinating to see what was growing – maize, potatoes, kale, cabbage, peas, wheat, oats. All sorts! I saw lots of moorhens and swans too. One moorhen had not long hatched her second brood of chicks and I could just see them, all black and fluffy and ungainly. Further on I came across a magnificent family of swans, with seven cygnets, swimming proudly along in a perfect line. The canal was buzzing with insect life too, particularly noticeable were all the dragonflies and damselflies, some of them in a striking blue, flitting here and there across the water. Did you know that our larger species of dragonfly can cruise at speeds of 10mph but can reach speeds of 30mph?! That’s crazy!

Swans in a row

The canal eventually came to a sad and rather abrupt end shortly after the old Waytown limekilns and very narrow tunnel, but my intended route (picking up the West Deane Way) followed the route that the rest of the canal formerly took. I was running short on water however and as my map indicated a campsite at Gamlins Farm not far up the road I headed up there to refill my bottles and from there decided to cut across country a bit to cut out a bit of mileage. It did add some elevation but it was actually quite nice to use my legs slightly differently! I also realised that I just crossed over into Somerset which was exciting as not only is it my third county on the walk but it’s also my home county so it felt a little like I was coming home. I had a little cheer then soldiered on, I was only just over halfway and it was already gone 4pm – it was going to be a late one! Thankfully it was a beautiful evening and I counted myself lucky that it wasn’t raining!

After finding some more ripe blackberries (yippee!) my path took me across a number of fields of pigs. I’ve never walked through pig fields before and I’m not sure the pigs see many walkers, judging by the astounded look they gave me. I’m not sure pigs can actually do ‘astounded’ or in fact pull specific facial expressions at all, but they were funny anyway. The groups of piglets ran away squeaking and their mums came and stood guard protectively. I wondered whether I was about to add a charged-by-an-angry-mama-pig story to my collection, but thankfully (at this time at least) that story remains un-materialised. (Yes, I know that’s not a real word. But after 26.7 miles I think I’m entitled to make up words 😉 ). Apart from inadvertently disturbing a group mud bath (seriously, I don’t know how many pigs managed to fit into that small muddy puddle but it was way more than you’d imagine was possible!), and thinking I had a mystery pig following me for a bit (turns out it was just my rucksack talking pig…) the pig field crossing passed without further ado. A little further on however it was time for a field of “thug sheep”. Ram thug sheep! I don’t know what breed these sheep are but they really look like thugs. Lisa and I came across some last year on our hike and we named them then. We had a funny incident where one tried to head-butt me. I put my hand out and he kept coming until he was close enough for his forehead to touch my palm and then he stopped. Now Lisa thinks I am a sheep whisperer! It was quite amusing and I wish we’d gotten a photo! Even so, I didn’t particularly fancy having to give my sheep-whispering skills another go, not with another 10 or so miles to walk!

Thug sheep!

A few more fields and I’m back on the West Deane Way which follows the old canal through some lovely old woodland. It passed Wellington and I longingly wished I was stopping there tonight. I knew of a couple who were staying there tonight who were walking John O’Groats to Land’s End, we’d hoped to meet up but we ended up just missing each other by just a few miles!

There was a beautiful bit of the old canal which was where there used to be boat lifts. The brickwork is still there and a little thin pond where the canal had been, but further on there was no real trace of the canal left at all. I think it is amazing, and quite sad, how something so important in its time can disappear without a trace!

As the sun started to think about getting low in the sky I walked through more lovely arable farmland alongside the river. I passed through a field of young pea plants which for some reason made me so happy! And then the biggest (or at least longest) fields of wheat I have ever seen. With wiggles (along the river) it must be about a mile long!! It was a pretty spot and at some points you could get down to the river. I was so tempted to break again and cool my feet in the water, but it was getting late and I was worried that if I stopped I wouldn’t get started again! So instead I just gave my feet a pep talk. I think if people had heard me they would have thought I was crazy. Out loud, talking to my feet, telling them how strong they are and how I was so grateful to them for their epic performance that day. What can I say, at 20+ miles I was having to dig deep..!

As I finally drew towards the outskirts of Taunton I looked behind me to see the most incredible sunset. Proper reds and blues and fiery clouds. I was torn between marching on and constantly stopping to turn and watch the colours change. Every time I stopped my feet hurt but I couldn’t resist! It may have been a long day but if it hadn’t, I probably would have missed the sunset. Still, at nearly 9:30pm, I was definitely ready for the end of the day’s walking.

Sunset

Thankfully, Gary (my host for the night) had kindly offered to pick me up from central Taunton which meant I didn’t have to hobble the last 2.5 miles in the dark. It meant a couple of extra miles to make up in the morning but right then I really didn’t care! When I got in, boots were straight off and feet in the air. I was so grateful for the cup of tea and the pasta bolognaise Gary cooked for me. I wolfed it all down, a massive bowl of it, had a bath to ease my cramping legs, and flopped into bed – for the first time ever being too tired to even contemplate trying to write my blog.

In summary, it was a beautiful day and I wish now I had split it in two to save my legs and feet and to appreciate it a bit more! But still, now my feet are feeling a little better it is quite satisfying to know I walked 26.7 miles with my pack and survived!

One day til my rest day…

Route day 15. Thanks Strava!

Day 14: Crediton to Tiverton

Total miles: 17.9

Elevation gain: 2,390 ft

Time walking: 10am – 6:30pm

Miles walked to date: 194.8

Today was another long, hilly and very pleasant day! Once again a lot of the route wasn’t incredibly interesting, but there were some definite highlights and I had some more company! My friend Antonia who I stayed with last night (and hadn’t seen since we left school about 16 years ago!) walked the first 6 miles with me today (and then ran back….she’s training for a marathon….crazy girl…if I can judge…).

More company!

Our route took us out of Crediton and through the small but lovely Shobrooke park, then through a field of golden oats which made for some great photos (Antonia played photographer for the morning so I have some more action shots whoop!), followed by the village of Shobrooke itself (where I nearly took us in completely the wrong direction, oops! I don’t seem to concentrate on my route as much when I have company…!) and then a few miles of road with occasional views over rolling farmland. We made fairly quick progress despite the gentle hills, and then I took us up a VERY big hill. It was something of a diversion as we could have carried along the road, but it was one of those hills on the map which just looks like it will have something special to offer…

It did! Not only did we meet a gorgeous family – a grandmother, mother and four beautiful children – who donated some money,  shared their sweets with us and told us about the Parrot Tree, but the views were sensational! Devon rolled out beneath us and to the west we could just see Dartmoor (misty today!). To the south we could see the Sidmouth Gap and even a small section of sea – the only glimpse I’ll see of the south coast other than my very first two days! Sadly at the top of the hill the 6 mile mark meant it was time for Antonia to head back, and it was onwards and temporarily downwards for me.

Classic field of golden oats photo opportunity!
That was a very big hill! And goodness my bag looks quite big relative to me!
The Parrot Tree
Beautiful family

The family had mentioned a good pub in the next village, Thorverton (the Thorverton Arms) so I decided to make a proper lunch stop there. The last few days I’ve not been terribly good at eating a proper lunch, so as it was a Sunday and the pub fell conveniently at the halfway point, I decided to have a Sunday roast. It was also a nice chance for an early boots-off-break – it was hot and sticky again today and my feet were getting very warm! There were two families together in the beer garden and we had a great chat while I was eating my lunch. They also donated some money! I just love people. Every day I am amazed and touched at how chatty people are and how many well-wishers I pick up along the way! It is a real morale booster and really makes me feel like I’m really not alone in this, even if I may be physically walking it on my own.

From Thorverton I picked up the Exe Valley Way which climbed up another big hill (seriously, Devon is HILLY!!) along a little country road, then dropped down into the valley for a few miles before finally joining the River Exe at Bickleigh (those last few miles got a little tedious!). On top of the hill I was amazed to find some ripe blackberries. I don’t think I’ve ever seen wild blackberries this early before, so I excitedly scoffed every one I found. Yum! I love the fact I’ll be walking through autumn as I love foraging and am excited to see what I find along my way. I just didn’t expect the harvest to start so soon!

Early blackberries

I had a little bit of mizzle along the top of the hill and a few spots of rain into Bickleigh but actually it was quite welcome given the mugginess. I still can’t   believe how lucky I have been with the weather. Long may it continue! For my sake and everybody else’s!

Bickleigh has a castle (I think privately owned) which is small but pretty, and a very old bridge over which the main road runs (single lane…plus a hiker blocking the way…), and a beautiful spot by the river. I stopped off at Bickleigh Mill for an ice cream and a second boots-off-break (hoping this isn’t going to become a daily necessity…!). The ice cream was amazing. Cappuccino crunch! I think the girl took pity on me with my big bag and gave me an extra big scoop – it was enormous!

Happy face!

There were lots of families around and it looked like there was some sort of treasure hunt going on, with kids were clutching bits of paper and hurrying to different areas excitedly. On closer inspection there were clues they had to answer like “what type of tree is this clue attached to?” which I got very excited about as I love it when children (and adults!) are engaging with nature, and I have a particular soft spot for tree identification!

Soon it was time for boots back on for the last 3.5 miles to Tiverton, along a very promising-looking path that ran along the River Exe and through some woods. On the way out I passed a peacock, as you do (haven’t seen one in years – so beautiful!), and a friendly woman who warned me it was quite a long way to Tiverton. I smiled wryly and couldn’t resist returning “it’s ok, it’s not as far as I’ve come!”. I allow myself a chuckle thinking of her expression of shock and amazement when she saw my sign and realised I had walked from Land’s End and was walking all the way to John O’Groats 🙂

As predicted the last section of the walk was lovely. As I walked along the river I suddenly heard a sound that was incredibly distinctive but one I hadn’t heard for a while – the piping call of a kingfisher! My eyes darted to the river and sure enough, there was the telltale streak of blue zooming past. Yes! Made my day! Kingfishers are great because they always give themselves away by their call as they fly. Once you know the sound it is very easy to recognise, and they are such pretty birds! They don’t stay still for very long so sometimes a flash of colour is all you see, but that’s still special. I was in for a treat today though; further along the river I heard the call again, stopped, looked and saw the kingfisher fly to a perch right in my line of sight. He was tiny, but I could clearly see his orange chest and blue back. I waited until he flew off again, then moved on, happy. A little further on and it was the buzzard’s turn to put on a show. I heard her calling, and then I realised I could hear what I think must have been her chicks, calling back. I couldn’t have been far from the nest, judging by the sound and the fact she was circling right over head (with a safe canopy of trees between us, thankfully!).

As is usual on a long day like this, a few miles from the end I was starting to feel my feet. My left foot is fine but my right foot has the beginning of a blister on the inner edge of the ball of my foot. It’s not big but it’s a tough one, and just down to the pressure of walking. I’ll need to check it tomorrow and decide whether a blister plaster will help or not. I also have a blister on the underside of my little toe, which is one I tend to get if my feet have been getting too hot, so I’ll need to keep an eye on that too! Otherwise doing ok. My brother is booking me a sports massage for my rest day, which I am looking forward to as my back has felt pretty tight the last two days. Pippa (my osteopath) would have a field day right now! In fact, if there happens to be any osteopaths reading this who are along my route, I’d be glad of a few cracks to my back!!

Tonight I am staying with the lovely mum of a friend of a friend (the power of networks eh?!) who has looked after me very well. Tea, nibbles, a bath, homemade quiche, dessert, a hug and an early night. How lucky am I?!

A very long day ahead of me tomorrow – around 24 miles – which puts it in the running for the longest day distance wise of the entire three months…eek! Best get some sleep then…!

Much love xx

Day 14 route

Day 13: Sticklepath to Crediton

Total miles: 15.1

Elevation gain: 1,217 ft

Time walking: 10am – 6pm

Miles to date: 176.9

Well, yesterday was always going to be a tough act to follow! Route wise I have to say that today was fairly uninteresting. Mostly country roads with a few miles on footpaths and bridleways which were pleasant enough but not a huge amount to write home about. We walked through a pretty village called Spreyton which had an nice-looking pub (but not open between 3-6ish) and at some point I did enjoy walking through a field of broad beans and eating a few straight from the pod. Sorry Mr Farmer, they were very much appreciated though!

What made today lovely however was the people. Ged and Janet, my lovely hosts from last night took me out for a delicious full cooked breakfast and coffee, a very good start to any hiker’s day! And then Viv arrived, my first guest walker! It was amazing to have some company for the day, as whilst I love walking on my own, it makes a very pleasant change to have someone to natter away the miles with. Sadly it wasn’t the most exciting day for Viv to be walking with me, and it was actually a more hilly day that I thought (whilst I’m perfectly capable of figuring out how hilly a day is going to be by looking at the map, I’ve gotten a bit lazy…the odd hill here and there is all part and parcel of the day for me now! Unless it’s a big one I don’t take huge amounts of notice (until I’m halfway up it, panting!)) but she was a great sport and despite her feet giving her some grief we had a lovely day whiling away the hours and miles catching up on all sorts of interesting stuff! Viv knows a fair bit about plants and it was fascinating to learn from her a little more about the plants we saw. At one point we came across a super mushroom – it looked like a fairy’s dining table!

Viv and her family are thinking of walking Hadrian’s Wall path later in the year so this was a kickstart to her training. I hope I haven’t put her off!  Especially as she brought me some exciting snacks!

View over farmland – a rather typical view of the day (when we found gaps in the hedges!)

The other nice thing about having someone else along is that it made me stop and take breaks more often, which was good for me today as my feet were aching a bit today. I also was wearing thicker socks (my favourite pair really need washing now…I need to buy another pair of those!) so my feet were getting a bit hot and sticky – not good as hot and sticky breeds blisters… thankfully blister-wise my feet are doing fantastically. I have two blister-like patches on my inner heel where previously hardened-over blisters have softened, but I don’t think they will cause me any real trouble. As long as they keep hardening up again! I am incredibly grateful that my feet seem to be ok other than aching, I have to admit I am terrified at the thought of bad blisters!

Today apart from the aching feet I can really feel my calves. I should have done a bit more stretching when I first finished! I have done a bit this evening but they are really feeling it today. I think a combination of lots of steep ascent yesterday and a fairly hilly day today. My back is also starting to tighten up, I did a few twist stretches and was amazed at how tight I felt. Think I need to start doing some yoga daily! I just seem to run out of time though. My daily routine is pretty much wake up, get dressed, eat breakfast, pack up, walk, shower, eat, chat, next day map check, blog, sleep. There have only been a handful of days, the shorter ones, where I actually would have time for much more! But the stretching definitely needs to go in there somewhere!

Walking buddy!

But anyway, having dropped off Viv in Yeoford having walked 11.1 miles, I completed the final 4 alone, firstly along roads, then along a bridle path running along a maize field (glad I wasn’t actually riding a horse!) and noticed that the soil is incredibly red around here. It’s bizarre! The final bit of the day’s walk was a nice clear and flat footpath through fields near the River Yeo to meet my friend at Crediton train station. It felt a bit strange, being driven away from my route for the night, but Antonia reassured me she will drop me off at exactly the place she picked me up from! And I have a lovely four poster bed tonight in a beautiful old house, so I am definitely not complaining! Antonia and her family kindly treated me to a delicious dinner at a nice pub nearby – I’m feeling very spoilt on this trip!

Really red soil!

Am now very sleepy again but in bed way before midnight which is progress! I have a long day tomorrow – about 20 miles – but Antonia is going to join me for the first 6 so I get another part-day of company, yay! And thankfully tomorrow should be reasonably flat after the first few miles as I’ll be following the River Exe all the way into Tiverton. At least navigating should be easy!

Oh, and I just worked out I’ve completed just under 20,000 ft of ascent so far. That’s 2/3rds the height of Everest!!

And there’s still plenty to come…!

Night night lovely people xx

Day 13 route

Day 12: Nodden Gate to Sticklepath

Total miles: 16.7

Elevation gain: 2,532 ft

Time walking: 12pm – 8pm

Miles walked to date: 161.8

Oh, oh, oh, today was a FANTASTIC day! I think it was my favourite so far. Dartmoor. DARTMOOR!!

You know when you’re in a place and it just feels right, you feel like you belong? That’s Dartmoor for me. There’s something about the moors that just does it for me, and having felt cheated out of Bodmin Moor I was especially excited to get out on to Dartmoor, and what a beautiful day! Sunshine and a light breeze, the perfect weather. As I stepped through the gate onto the edge of the moor proper I felt the tiredness and aches lift and my heart soar. Today was going to be a great day!

Hello Dartmoor!

Dartmoor doesn’t really ease you in gently and right away it was uphill on a pleasant track from Nodden Gate up towards Great Nodden. The track curves around the hill, avoiding the summit, but you can’t come to Dartmoor and not bag as many tors as possible….ok so Great Nodden isn’t actually classed as a tor, but it’s still a big hill with stunning views. Climbing big hills always seems like a good idea when you start, a silly idea when you’re halfway up, and a brilliant idea when you reach the top. This one was no exception. After huffing and puffing up its slope the resultant view made me want to whoop for joy. In front of me was a high ridge crowned with ‘proper’ tors and behind me Devon stretched out way below, with Cornwall making an appearance with Bodmin Moor still on the horizon.

The next tor to be bagged was Sourton Tor, with some satisfyingly chunky granite slabs and further fine 180 degree views of Devon in one direction and the highest bits of Dartmoor in the other, dropping down into the pretty Meldon Reservoir.

The trig point at Sourton Tor
Panoramic view from Sourton Tor
Meldon reservoir and the high moor from Sourton Tor

Briefly picking up the West Devon Way I quickly left it again and dropped down to the southern end of the reservoir, crossed the West Okemont River which feeds it (pausing to watch a statue-like heron doing his thing), then traced a good path along the eastern edge of the reservoir towards the dam to the north. Partway along I meet a group of volunteers working with the park rangers to improve the path. It looks like hard work, and they had to carry all the tools in by foot! I stop and chat with them for a while and they are such a friendly and interesting bunch! I love outdoorsy people! I was glad to bump into them as Ged, who I am staying with tonight (a last minute offer of a bed whoop!), had said he’d be working with them today, but sadly I’d just missed him. That’ll be down to starting a couple of hours later than planned…combination of feeling very tired today and the big breakfast at the pub…!

Meldon Reservoir
Bumping into some volunteers and thinking to ask them to take a non-selfie photo of me!

After passing the dam, a very impressive structure, I followed a bridleway under the Meldon viaduct (also very impressive), picking up the Two Castles Trail again for my least favourite bit of the day, a long uninteresting stretch along a gravel track near the A30 and over a golf course, then down through a pretty wood with glimpses of Okehampton Castle through the trees – in a far worse state of repair than a Launceston at the other end of the trail!

Meldon Viaduct

I decided to head into Okehampton to break for a bite to eat and to rest my feet but sadly the cafe I found had stopped serving food 5 minutes earlier. Typical! Still, I had a coffee and a flapjack type thing and rested my feet for a bit and used the loos etc, but completely forgot to refill my water bottle which was one of the main reasons for stopping!

Heading out of Okehampton I picked up the Tarka Trail which follows the East Okemont River back up onto the moors and oh, what a pretty trail! The river is small but beautiful, and due to the elevation change it is constantly babbling as it works its way down the hill. With the sun shining down through the trees creating a perfect dappled shade, it was one of my favourite spots of the day. It was mostly an easy trail, with the exception of a couple of short scrambles which I imagine wouldn’t be so much fun in the rain. I thanked the weather gods again for my good fortune!

The Tarka Trail follows the pretty East Okemont River uphill to the moor

Eventually the trees thin out and the trail crosses the river and heads up onto the moor again, before dropping down to Belstone. At this point I decide to leave the trail and keep going up the hill, to add Belstone Tor to my trophies for the day. It was such a beautiful evening and I couldn’t resist the prospect of more good views and a stretch of wilder walking. There are no obvious paths heading up to Belstone Tor, at least not from my direction, so I followed sheep paths which worked out pretty well, if a little wiggly. I came across some ridiculously cute fluffy lambs too! As I got nearer the top the sheep tracks became increasingly sporadic, presumably because sheep have neither the need nor the desire to actually climb to the top of a tor…! And the rocks that looked like scree from below were actually rather large rocks and slabs, so it was a bit of a scramble to get to the top, but once I was there I knew exactly why I had made the effort. Dartmoor, stretching out in all directions in the golden early evening sun. I could have cried with happiness! To the west were the highest points in Dartmoor, High Willhays and Yes Tor, a wild and rugged section of the moor, and to the east was Cosdon Hill, the third highest point of the moor.

Belstone Tor. They are so big they always look closer than they are…!
Made it!
Totally worth it. Pure Dartmoor!

I could have sat up there for a very long time! Conscious of the time however (6:30pm already!) I made my descent into the shallow valley between Belstone Tor and Cosdon, picking my way down very carefully. The bottom was very peaceful. No sound other than skylarks warbling and sheep calling their lambs. No people, no buildings, just moor. I had to walk in the wrong direction for a little way to reach a ford over the river, and it was a beautiful spot which I imagine would be perfect for wild camping. I made a mental note to come back next year!

A peaceful spot by the ford in the river
A last look back…

I could start to feel the tiredness creep in during the climb up to the bridleway which hugs Cosdon about halfway up its slopes, and whilst I was sad at the prospect of leaving the moor I could feel that it had been another long day and I was getting hungry! I was still ridiculously happy though, and I reflected on the fact that I felt a lot stronger walking over the moors than I did walking the same distance through ‘regular’ countryside, even with increased ascents, and I put it down to the joy I feel when I’m walking in moorland. It gives me an energy like no other place! It was the second hardest day in terms of ascent and yet my bag felt light, my legs felt strong and my feet felt sure. It was only when I dropped down into the woods to the River Taw to walk the last half a mile into Sticklepath when my feet and legs really started to ache, and suddenly I was somewhat nervous about tomorrow which is 15 miles, a lot of which is back on country roads. Oh it was so nice to be walking on peaty ground and springy grass today!

I had a beautiful welcome into Sticklepath with my hosts for the night, Ged and Janet who are friends of a friend, making me a cup of tea and showing me around their beautiful garden which backs onto the river, then feeding me a delicious three course meal and tea and cake. Beats a boil in the bag meal any day!!

It’s rather late now (oops!) and my legs and feet are aching the most they have so far. I have four days before my next rest day and two of them are the longest mileage of the entire trip, so I’m a little nervous about how my legs and feet will hold up over the coming days… I’m hoping that a good night’s sleep will sort them out! The most exciting thing about tomorrow is that I have someone joining me for the day! My first guest walker! Whilst I love walking on my own it will make a lovely change to have someone along with me 🙂 I just hope she doesn’t think I’m too strange when I thank inanimate objects like signposts, perfect bag-resting-height fences and gates that open and close without a fight… Such things become very important!

Watch this space!

Much love xx

Day 12: Strava route map

Day 11: Launceston to Nodden Gate

Total miles: 18.8

Elevation gain: 2,430 ft

Time walking: 10:15am – 7:30pm

Miles walked to date: 145.1

Today was the second longest day so far in terms of distance, and close third in terms of ascent, so it was a pretty tough day relative to the rest of the days so far. It was also HOT! I’d broken into a sweat within about 5 minutes (and not just because of the hill I had to climb to get up into Launceston town centre!), and while the morning was hot and sunny, the afternoon turned into hot and muggy.

Upon waking though it was misty, the town and castle shrouded in cloud to the extent that I wouldn’t have known they were there, if I didn’t know they were there! After a thoroughly satisfying full English breakfast (I highly recommend Rose Cottage B&B if you happen to be staying in Launceston), I had the exciting prospect of visiting the castle to entice me up the hill. Despite having a long day ahead of me I couldn’t resist visiting the castle, partly because of the fact I love history, partly because of the rumoured fantastic views and partly because I figure I ought to make the most of travelling the country to actually see the places I visit! The kind lady at the desk looked after my bag while, free from my load, I sprang up the steps to the top (I can tell I’m getting fitter!) to admire the views. Stunning! I could see back to Bodmin Moor and forward towards Dartmoor, and everything in between. Definitely worth taking the time to visit!

With Launceston having grown on me considerably, it was time to pick up the Two Castles Trail which would take me pretty much all the way to my destination for the day, Nodden Gate near Bridestowe, on the edge of Dartmoor. The trail links the castles of Launceston and Okehampton but I haven’t yet discovered why the trail takes the exact route it does – it is rather loopy in places and despite passing through a few villages doesn’t seem to have much of particular interest en route. Still, it was a clearly way marked route which is very pleasant, and it took me into my second county of the trip – Devon! Sadly the ‘welcome to Devon’ sign was a little way up a busy road so I couldn’t get a selfie, but it was satisfying to know I’d finally cleared Cornwall!

After a few miles I came across a couple who were walking the trail who had spotted me earlier in Launceston. I fell into step beside them and it turns out they are considering walking LEJOG themselves at some point, so we had plenty to chat about! All too soon we can across Lifton farm shop and restaurant which was where I was planning to break, so we swapped emails and said farewell.

After stocking up on a few supplies in the shop and chatting with some very friendly staff I ordered myself a cream tea – the first I’ve managed to have! After trying to remember which way around (cream then jam or jam then cream) was the Devon way to do it, I sat on the fence and did one scone of each. Managed to stuff myself silly by polishing off both scones and a whole pot of cream and jam and promptly felt rather sick! Still, that was a fair few calories taken on board…

The next few miles were a mixture of roads and footpaths with little to comment on, except that suddenly a song came into my head that I sang once as a child, called “Look to the Rainbow”. I had the urge to sing it so I looked up the lyrics and off I went, singing over the fields as I walked. I hope nobody was close enough to hear me! It is a lovely song though and the words were very fitting:

On the day I was born, said my father, said he,
I’ve an elegant legacy waiting for ye.
‘Tis a rhyme for your lips
And a song for your heart
To sing it whenever the world falls apart.

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

‘Twas a sumptuous gift to bequeath to a child,
Oh the lure of that song kept me feet running wild.
For you never grow old,
And you never stand still,
With whip-poor-wills singing beyond the next hill

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

So I bundled my heart
And I roamed the world free.
To the east with the lark,
To the west with the sea.
And I searched all the earth
And I scanned all the skies,
But found it at last in my own true love’s eyes.

Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow it over the hill and stream.
Look, look,
Look to the rainbow.
Follow the fellow who follows a dream.

Follow the fellow,
Follow the fellow,
Follow the fellow,
Who follows a dream.

As I came into the little village of Stowford I came across my new friends again and we walked the next few miles together. I realised how lovely it was to have company for a while, and although they weren’t walking as far as me, it was nice to share the journey for a bit. We reached their stop for the night around 4:30pm, and I don’t think they envied me my remaining hours!

My feet were starting to ache by this point, around mile 13. I think it was a combination of several days of road walking and having hot sticky feet, and I started to get a little worried that this was the beginning of the pain. With fortuitous timing the path suddenly leaves the road and heads up a track up the hill. That felt like a loooong hill! it wasn’t the last hill of the day but it was certainly the biggest, and I was very glad when I got to the top and was rewarded with beautiful views back the way I had come, with Bodmin Moor silhouetted against the skyline. Dartmoor, which had remained curiously hidden for all but the start of the day, was yet to show its face.

At the top of the hill I turned a gate too soon and ended up in a corner of a field with the road I was aiming for on the other side of a big impenetrable hedge. And then the first hint of the shakes came, the warning sign that I had not eaten enough today. Suddenly my cream tea felt like a very long time ago! Being hungry or being off-track is bad enough, being hungry AND off track is not pleasant! Thankfully I had my Kendal mint cake to hand and that stuff is amazing! It provided a real boost just when I needed it!

I had half a mile to go before my planned stop to rest my feet and grab some food so I soldiered on, powered by minty sugary goodness. The path led through a rather surreal wood. One side of the path was old fir forest, dry and dead beneath, whilst the other side was young, lush and green. I felt like I was waking through a fairy tale, where if I stepped to the left I’d wither and harden, whereas if I kept to the right I’d be granted eternal youth and beauty. I stuck mainly to the right, just in case…

After making it out of the forest intact Dartmoor finally chose to show itself. What had been a hazy dream on the horizon was now a solid – and somewhat formidable – reality. I stopped and took my boots off watching the weather change over the moors. Thankfully today remained dry despite a few raindrops trying to squeeze their way out!

After an assessment of the map I decided to cut off a small loop of the trail route to enable me to get to the campsite in decent time and to save my feet as much as I could. It meant cutting out a hill fort (if you’ve been reading this you’ll know how I love a good hill fort, so for me to turn one down gives you an idea of how tired I was feeling), but also a mile of the route.

The last couple of miles were tough and my feet were aching the most they have so far this trip. When I saw my pub at the end of a beautiful cathedral-like tunnel of beech trees I could have whooped for joy, as I was tired and hungry! But first things first, the tent goes up, and only then it’s time to get food.

I was camping at the site behind the Fox and Hounds pub between Bridestowe and Lydford and it’s a really friendly pub. On hearing what I was doing the landlord promptly upgraded my small glass of wine to a big one “for having the balls to do that journey” and gave me some money for sponsorship. A woman, her daughter and her daughter’s boyfriend overheard our conversation and then we got chatting. What a lovely night that turned into! I love it when you get chatting to people you have so much in common with. It’s crazy, not only do they know the tiny village I grew up in but they lived in a small town about 5 miles down the road! It is a small world indeed! We chatted all evening and then they gave me a big hug as they left. Love hugs!

So after a very nice evening and a big glass of wine I am really struggling to keep my eyes open  long enough to write this, but I know if I don’t write it now it will never get written! I have a feeling I am going to sleep very well tonight, and the excellent news is that the pub serves breakfast in the morning!

So on that note, some beauty sleep required!

Day 10: Altarnun to Launceston

Total miles: 11

Elevation gain: 848ft

Time walking: 12pm – 5:30pm

Miles walked to date: 126.3

Two days cannot be more different! Yesterday was wet and soggy, today was hot and sticky! I can’t believe the difference, but I am incredibly grateful for it. Overnight there was more rain and some strong winds – it felt like my tent was going to blow away at some points – but at some point the rain stopped and things started to dry out. It didn’t take long for the sun to appear, and in spite of managing to pitch my tent in the only patch of shade in the entire field, I quickly pulled all of my damp gear out into the sun to dry off while I had a coffee in the pub compliments of the landlord. Thankfully I didn’t have far to go today so I could let stuff get properly dry, and the sun was strong enough that it didn’t take too long. Today’s breakfast was boiled eggs, which was very exciting – I bought the eggs from a farm yesterday, and boiled them in my stove! Simple things…!

How did I manage to find the one bit of shade in the field?!
Simple pleasures!

Today’s route took me along a mixture of country lanes and footpaths. At points during the first part of the walk I had glimpses back towards Bodmin Moor – looking gentle, appealing and somewhat taunting in the sunshine! Early on in the day my walk took me down through a lovely old wood on a steep slope down to a pretty little river, then up again to the other side into a tiny hamlet called Laneast, and I was thrilled that the farmers in this area provide very clear signage for footpaths crossing their farms. It was some beautiful farmland with a tantalising view over to Dartmoor, my destination for tomorrow, and I would have lingered longer but for a buzzard crying out his displeasure at my presence. Having been dive-bombed by a territorial buzzard in the past I was in no hurry to repeat the experience, they are quite intimidating creatures when they are whistling past your head only inches away! He was calling out and circling far too close for my liking so I hurried down into the trees and out of his way as quickly as I could!

Pretty river and woodland
Gorgeous farmland walking with Bodmin Moor in the distance

The next section of farmland was covered without any further encounters of the animal kind, save for a fox I spotted ducking behind a gate as I entered a field and a few bunnies scattering in front of me. I did see an unusual crop growing in some fields I passed, I think it might have been sugar cane!

I passed through another tiny hamlet called Gospenheale which I realised this evening is mentioned in the end to end book that a lot of walkers follow (I’m not, I haven’t even read it, for some reason!), and it was mentioned by Mark Moxon, the guy whose blog gave me the inspiration to do this walk myself. I realised that this was the place where a friendly farmer had invited him in for a cup of tea and a slice of cake on a rainy day when he was walking a similar route to me. It’s funny, to imagine that he walked that same road, with weather similar to that which I experienced yesterday. No friendly farmer for me though, but I did see a man driving a quad bike with his collie by his side. That collie sure knows how to travel in style!

A Cornish traffic jam…

After a good few miles of road I decided to take to an appealing looking footpath for a slight detour to take in a hill fort. Alas, other than some very friendly cows and a steep hill, there wasn’t really much to see. Still, it provided a useful off-road opportunity to take the boots off and swap out of my waterproof socks which had done their job but were now making my feet sweat.

A few more fields with reasonably well signposted paths and good margins between crops and hedge (thank you farmers!) took me to Tregadillet and on towards Launceston, my stop for the evening. Not far past the ‘Welcome to Launceston’ sign (pause for obligatory signpost selfie (it’s a lejog thing..!)), I find a gateway with a view! Launceston suddenly rolls out below me and the famous Launceston Castle (a Norman castle right on top of the hill) is right in front of me, with the heights of Dartmoor on the horizon providing an enticing backdrop.

Obligatory signpost selfie
Launceston Castle in front of Dartmoor on the horizon

For some unknown reason I decide it would be fun to jog down the steep hill into the town (crazy, much?) and I enter the town by the beautiful St. Thomas’s Bridge, a very old pedestrian bridge that used to take the monks to the priory across the river.

St. Thomas’s Bridge

I was a bit dubious about Launceston as Mr Moxon had been somewhat scathing about it, and I have to admit the first few people I came across didn’t do much to prove him otherwise! However, my b&b is charming and I have a beautiful view of the castle and town from my room. Reading a little more about the town makes me want to explore a little before I leave tomorrow, and the White Hart Inn just down the road served an amazing rib eye steak, so I don’t really have any reason to agree with my predecessor currently!

A rather more civilised end to the day today!

So walking wise, today has been fine. One of those days which isn’t outstandingly amazing, but is perfectly agreeable. What was a little more challenging today was realising how difficult it can be to organise the rest of life when you are not there to make things happen! I found out this week that I was finally able to get my cats back (long story, if you don’t know it), but of course currently I can’t actually pick them up or look after them, which is heartbreaking and frustrating! Thankfully, today also showed what AMAZING friends I have, and after putting out a plea for help on Facebook I ended up with numerous offers of help and support. I am genuinely overwhelmed at people’s willingness and desire to help, and it means so so much to me. It actually brings tears to my eyes to know how much my friends have got my back and want to see me succeed. I know some of you will be reading this, so thank you, thank you, thank you, and you know I’d do the same for you xxx

So after a slight wobble I can now relax and focus on my walk again, and continue to raise as much publicity as I can to raise as much money as I can for some truly wonderful causes!

Tomorrow I head towards Bridestowe on the northeastern edge of Dartmoor, following the Two Castles Trail. It’s a longer day tomorrow, 17 miles and I think a bit more elevation, and given that I want to take in Launceston Castle before I head off it will be an earlyish start! At least I’m being cooked breakfast in the morning 🙂

Oh, and tomorrow morning I cross into Devon! I can’t believe I’m 10 days in, one tenth of my journey complete, and I’m STILL in Cornwall!

Night night xx

Day 10 route

Day 9: South Penquite Farm to Altarnun

Miles walked: 15.7

Elevation gain: 1,092 ft

Time walking: 9:30am – 4:30pm

Miles walked to date: 115.3

Wet! That is the word of the day! Thankfully I managed to get the tent down and get packed up before the rain started, right on time at 9am. It was time to put my waterproofs to the test…

Sadly because the rain was set to be here all day I decided to change my route to avoid the high moor. I was disappointed as I had been really looking forward to crossing Bodmin, but safety comes first. It wasn’t long before I knew I had made the right decision, the rain progressed from a heavy drizzle to a steady downpour and visibility was low. After about an hour I was very glad to come across the lovely little church in St. Breward which had one of those porches which are an absolute sanctuary for wet hikers! It was the perfect spot to de-bag and take a quick break. The church itself was open so I had a look around and it was lovely. It also had a loo! Yay! Something about the constant sound of the rain adds to the need for a loo, hehe.

Seeking shelter in St. Breward’s church porch

Despite taking a safer, less remote route, it was still fairly isolated and there were no real villages for the rest of the day. A lot of the roads I followed were little more than surfaced tracks across the lower levels of the moor, which suited me just fine! I wasn’t up high in the moor, but I still got to experience a taste of the wilderness. I followed the Moorland Walk for a while which is a reasonably well marked trail and took me through lovely fields overlooking the northern edge of the moor. I came across a few more herds of cows but thankfully although curious they only played at getting close, turning and dancing away before they got anywhere near me. Their calves were cute to watch – a mixture of curiousity and fear as they tried to be brave enough to come and check me out. I don’t blame their mums for being wary – I was a strange, bright red, green and black creature walking through the mist. I’d avoid me too! 😉 It seemed to be the day for meeting lots of animals. I saw lots of cows, including two herds of highland cows (sooo cute!), lots of sheep and a fair few ponies with fluffy, leggy foals.

I’d managed to find a route which cut off a long annoying loop on road (including a potentially busy stretch on a B-road) by cutting across a section of the northern edge of the moor just below Rough Tor. Cutting down to the car park below Rough Tor (which was intermittently visible behind great clouds of misty rain) I was surprised to find a few cars there. Clearly there are a few people nearly as mad as me out there today! Walking through a fir plantation, with either side of the path flanked by firs growing so close it was incredibly dark beneath (there’ll be fairies in there, I’m sure of it!), and the rain incessantly driving down, I met a couple walking towards me. I think I might have scared them slightly by waving my arms in the air and exclaiming “yay, someone as mad as me!” at them. I don’t think they spoke English, at least they smiled nervously and walked on… 😀

Coming out of the plantation and on to open moor it was time to get my compass out. Proper hiking! Due east should take me right to a bridleway which would lead me off the moor again. No funny stories here I’m afraid, my navigation was perfect for once, and I’m very glad as even though it was in the lower reaches of the moor it was still very exposed and made me doubly glad of my decision to avoid the high moor! It was breathtaking though, and only served to strengthen my love of moors and all places wild. Definitely my happy place! I must be one of the world’s craziest people – I was there in the wind and the rain, soaking wet (well, dry underneath my waterproofs if a little sticky), with the biggest grin on my face!

Wet but happy

After finding the bridleway without a problem, I followed it up the track with the wind at my back to an old abandoned farm. I think it must have been a house at some point but now it looks to be nothing more than a shelter for the animals out on the moor. It was a welcome break from the weather, and a chance to take the pack off and have some food in the dry. The glass-less windows looked back out to the moor and I dreamed of what the house might have looked like in its prime. I was in what looked like it must have been a large living room with two big fireplaces. I’d love that, to be curled up by a roaring fire while gazing out at the wild moorland beyond. My phone needed some charge so I sat there for a while, just listening to the wind and the rain, and then to my surprise in flies a beautiful falcon. I think it’s either a kestrel or a merlin (big dark eyes, dark wings, white chest and brown back), it perches on a wall and suddenly sees me. It peers at me, bobbing its head up and down, looking quite bewildered and not knowing what to make of me. We watch each other, and he seems to think me safe enough, but keeps a watchful eye on me. I assume he is taking a break from the rain, like me, and it felt quite peaceful, two creatures seeking shelter from the weather, accepting each other’s presence. Not long after that a second bird flies in, the female, I think, as she is all brown. She clings to the wall for a while – I can’t tell whether it is from exhaustion or from wariness of my presence – and soon flies out again. The male joins her, returning to the hunt, but after a while he returns. I wonder if they have a nest there, but I didn’t hear any babies chirping and they weren’t bringing in food, so I think they were just taking a break from the rain. Either way, I was judged safe as he turned his back on me this time, with the occasional curious glance back over his shoulder.

When he left a second time I supposed it was probably time for me to head on too. After the peaceful break from the rain I wasn’t thrilled to put the waterproofs and bag back on and head back out into the weather, but it didn’t take too long to settle back into my pace. It was all country roads from here, albeit pretty moorland roads to start with. There were some bits, with fords and old clapper bridges, that I imagine would be glorious in the sun. They were pretty in the rain, but not so appealing for a picnic or a paddle!

Who doesn’t want a selfie with a highland cow?!

After a few more miles I arrived at my destination, the Rising Sun Inn near Altarnun. Sadly the pub was closed, so I went and pitched my tent quickly and retreated inside. Thankfully there is just enough space in the porch of my tent for my rucksack and wet waterproofs, so there was a bit of room to assess the state of the damp. I had stayed remarkably dry but my rucksack was very wet, even with the waterproof cover. Thankfully all of my stuff is in waterproof bags so pretty much everything was fairly dry. Unfortunately the waterproof bag my sleeping bag came in doesn’t appear to be all that waterproof so it was a bit damp in places, not great for a down sleeping bag but it could be worse. At least tomorrow I’m in a b&b so can dry out properly! And when I get the chance I’ll get another waterproof bag. And some waterproof gloves! Wet hands aren’t fun.

After a relax in the tent, listening to the pitter patter of the rain, I contemplated what I’d do if the pub didn’t open. It could be a long night. And signal was intermittent. Found myself wishing I’d brought a book again!

Thankfully the pub opened at 5:30pm and it had wifi and food! Score! Good food too, so I filled up on bangers and mash and sticky toffee pudding, exactly what I needed after today. And a friendly man at the bar overheard what I was doing and gave me some money for my charities. I’m amazed how generous people are to someone they don’t know! It certainly boosts my faith in the human race 🙂

The rain appears to have finally stopped now, so hopefully I won’t get wet again now I’ve dried off in the pub! Tomorrow is supposed to be dry and possibly sunny which is very kind. I have a shorter day again tomorrow so can take my time in the morning to get dried out!

I have to say, despite the rain I have had a thoroughly enjoyable day. I thought that the constant rain might get me down a bit, I daresay it would if I had it days on end, but so far I am still smiling!

Tomorrow I head to Launceston which is my last stop in Cornwall – the next day I’ll cross over into Devon!

Keep your fingers crossed for more nice weather for me 🙂 xx

Day 9 route

Day 8: Ruthernbridge to South Penquite Farm

Total miles: 11.8

Elevation gain: 926 ft

Time walking: 10:30am – 3:30pm

Miles walked to date: 99.6

Whoop, nearly 100 miles completed! It feels like I’m actually making a little bit of progress on the mighty map!

A change of scenery for KJ!

Today was a fairly straightforward day as for the majority of it I was following the Camel Trail, an old railway line that runs down from Padstow to Bodmin, then up to Camelford (I think). It’s easy walking, although the first bit I walked (Grogley Halt to near Bodmin) wasn’t particularly interesting other than the old station platforms and an in-use bit of railway where a steam train runs into Bodmin. Sadly I wasn’t there at the same time as the steam train, but I did have a nice chat to the train guard who said I must be bl***y bonkers…! There was a nice-looking tea shop that I’m now wishing I’d stopped at for a cream tea – I didn’t because I’d only been walking for an hour, but there wasn’t anything else until I got to Blisland, a little village near where I’m staying tonight. The benefit of hindsight!

The Camel Trail

It was nice to have an easy introduction to the second week of walking as my bag is now heavier again following a supply drop! I need to make sure I actually eat the food I’ve been brought, I’m not getting through it as quickly as I thought which probably means I’m not eating enough calories… Another benefit of walking along a nice cycle trail is all the friendly cyclists! Lots called out to wish me luck, and one lovely couple, on passing me for the third time, stopped to chat and ask about the charities I’m supporting, and they gave me £10! People are so lovely!

The second part of the Camel Trail was slightly narrower (but still easy for cyclists) and more interesting. It ran through pretty woods and along lovely sections of the River Camel. I stopped and ate lunch by the river and it was very peaceful, but it soon got a little chilly so I decided to push on.

The last few miles were all uphill, first along little roads then out onto the foothills of Bodmin Moor. Now we’re talking! I love the moors. I’ve never been to Bodmin Moor before so it’s a section I’m really excited about, but sadly it looks like the weather is not going to be kind tomorrow and I may have to skirt the edge of the moor rather than head over it. I am very grateful for all the good weather I’ve had to date and the good weather that is supposed to be ahead, but I do wish the one day of rain forecasted wouldn’t be the day I want to cross the moor! Ah well, que sera, sera!

From where I was walking I could see across to some of the high tors of the moor and they look so inviting! Desolate and bleak – perfect!   I’m sure I’ll have plenty of desolate and bleak later on in this trip – Offa’s Dyke, the Pennine Way and parts of Scotland will deliver there – but it’s exciting to see it here as somehow it makes this trip feel more real. I feel like I’ve had it easy so far!

Horses on the hill

I soon reach the sign for South Penquite Farm where I am staying tonight, and it’s a beautiful spot. It is a lovely campsite here, it somehow combines having everything you need with still having an air of wildness about it. I have a feeling I’ll come back here!

My stop for the night

Tent goes up like a dream (love this tent!) and the stove comes out for its first proper use of the trip. Some of the farm animals come to say hello – so far I’ve had visits from a flock of turkeys, a cat, two hens and a sheep dog!

Farm Friends!

Dinner was a freeze-dried pasta bolognaise and it tasted DIVINE! Food always tastes better when cooked and eaten outdoors, especially after a good hike!

Tonight’s gourmet dining!

It keeps spitting with rain so I’ve taken shelter inside my tent and it’s quite cosy. A family came past earlier and invited me for marshmallows later which is very tempting, if I’m still awake! I want to make an early start tomorrow to put the tent down before the rain arrives, so it’s probably an early night too! It’s evenings like this where I wish I’d brought a book. I have audiobooks but they aren’t quite the same. Maybe my next supply drop will need to include a book!

Well if you’re reading this before Tuesday please pray for a dry day for me tomorrow, otherwise tomorrow’s blog might be slightly soggier reading… 😉

Lots of love xx

 

Day 8 route

 

Progress! Nearly 100 miles to date 🙂

Day 7: Rest day

First rest day! It felt quite strange to be having a rest day already as I’m just getting into the rhythm of walking and my body appears to be holding up remarkably well, but a) I know it’s sensible and b) it means I get to spend a day with my dad 🙂

After a delicious full English (thanks dad!), the first of this trip, and another leisurely start to the day, we went for a drive about around the gorgeous country lanes around here. I really wouldn’t want to be driving anything big down here, there’s barely room for one car between the hedge-bank-walls let alone for two to pass! They are very pretty though. It didn’t take me long to fall asleep in the car (sorry dad!), my body is clearly making the most of the rest day!

We headed to Padstow for a lovely afternoon of coffee, Cornish pasties (my first this trip!) a ferry trip across the estuary and an ice cream (also Cornish, of course!). A brass band was playing by the harbour so we stopped to listen for a while. The sun even came out for a bit!

Yuuuuum!

Having eaten dad out of nearly all his food we went to the nearest pub for dinner (a 20 minute drive, I’d really managed to find a spot in the middle of nowhere!) and I figured it would be criminal not to have fish given how close we were to the coast!

Challenged dad to a game of pool and lost twice, although not embarrassingly, I’m pleased to report! Then back to the caravan for an early night, ready for the next week for walking tomorrow!